Saturday, November 1, 2025

Nordic Diaries – Between Fjords and Skylines

Summer vacations have a special way of turning ordinary days into lasting memories; a time to slow down, reconnect, and rediscover the joy of new places and familiar faces. This journey was no different; a long-awaited Scandinavian escape, planned between workdays and casual conversations. And finally, there we were, on our way to Scandinavia.


Day 1: Arrival in Stockholm – A Journey Begins

After a smooth flight connection from Mumbai through Zurich, we finally landed in Stockholm, feeling that familiar mix of excitement and curiosity that comes with arriving in a new city. The air outside Arlanda Airport was crisp and cool, a nice change from the Indian summer. A quick taxi ride took us to our hotel in Solna, a quiet, green part of the city.

The hotel was simple and comfortable, just what we needed after a day of travel. The real highlight of the evening, though, was meeting an old college friend, someone we had not seen in over 25 years, welcomed us into his home near Solna Centrum. We spent hours catching up, sharing old stories, and making politically incorrect statements over a delicious home‑cooked Indian dinner.

It was the perfect beginning to our time in Scandinavia; a gentle arrival, familiar faces in a new place, and that feeling of being far from home yet completely at ease.

 

Day 2: Gamla Stan’s Timeless Charm and the Heartbeat of the City

Our first morning in Stockholm started right where the city itself began – Gamla Stan, the old town. With its cobbled lanes, mustard-yellow buildings, and small cafés tucked into every corner, it felt like walking through a perfectly preserved piece of history.

We began at the majestic Royal Palace, its grand Baroque façade stretching wide along the waterfront. Even today, it is the official residence of the Swedish monarch. We watched the changing of the guard, a ceremonial spectacle of precision and tradition, before heading inside.

Royal Palace

Within the palace, the Livrustkammaren (Royal Armoury) turned out to be a real highlight. Jewel‑encrusted swords, armour gleaming under soft lights, and royal carriages preserved in all their glory. Just next door, the Royal Coin Cabinet is an intriguing collection of coins, medals, and historic treasures – tiny yet powerful symbols of the country’s evolution.

From there, we wandered into Stortorget Square, the oldest square in Stockholm, surrounded by tall, narrow merchant houses painted in vivid reds, greens, and yellows. Overlooking Stortorget Square was one of world’s most inspiring institutions, the Nobel Prize Museum. Stepping inside felt like entering a temple of human achievement. The museum celebrates not just the laureates but the spirit of curiosity and courage that drives discovery.

The Nobel Prize Museum

The first thing that caught our eye was the ceiling installation of moving banners, each displaying the name and field of a Nobel Laureate. Interactive displays and multimedia exhibits brought the stories of the laureates to life, revealing how groundbreaking ideas often begin with simple questions. We lingered before the fascinating personal artifacts, e.g., handwritten manuscript by Einstein, original lab instruments, and quite surprisingly, the bicycle used by Prof. Amartya Sen during his Shantiniketan days.

A short walk led us to Saint Nicholas Cathedral, also known as Stockholm Cathedral, whose warm brick walls have seen countless coronations and royal weddings. Inside, the wooden statue of Saint George and the Dragon stood as a striking reminder of courage and faith, its details unbelievably lifelike. The Gamla Stan’s Obelisk stood in front of the church, quietly marking its historic ground since the late 18th century.

Saint Nicholas Cathedral and the Obelisk

Saint George and the Dragon

Wandering further, we spotted an ancient Viking Rune carved right into the side of a building; so easy to miss, yet such a powerful reminder of the city’s ancient roots. We then turned onto Västerlånggatan, the old town’s lively main street, filled with little cafés and souvenir shops. Curiosity drew us down Mårten Trotzigs Gränd, the narrowest alley in Stockholm, where the walls nearly touched our shoulders as we climbed its steep steps.

Not far away, hidden behind the Finnish Church, we discovered Järnpojke, the “Iron Boy”; a barely 15 cm tall statue. Locals often leave him little gifts or scarves in winter, and touching his bronze head is said to bring luck.

Järnpojke

By afternoon, we stepped beyond the old town to the historic city centre. Our destination was Kungsträdgården, the King’s Garden, often called Stockholm’s living room. In that bright summer day, it was alive with a vibrant cherry blossom, a plethora of tulips, and swans stretching out on the adjacent pond. Little did they care about the chaos created by the fellow Homo Sapiens species.

Cherry Blossom at Kungsträdgården 

Tulips at Kungsträdgården

As the light began to fade, we wandered into the nearby shopping streets, to make the best use of our time. Our first day had taken us from medieval alleys and hidden treasures to the modern heart of Stockholm, and we were only just getting started.

 

Day 3: A Royal Escape – Drottningholm Palace

The third day was all about royalty. A long bus ride across the suburbs of Stockholm brought us to Drottningholm Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and still the private residence of Sweden’s royal family. Set right by the lake, its perfect symmetry and grand façade looked straight out of a painting.

Drottningholm Palace

Inside, the Grand Reception Halls were nothing short of breathtaking. Each room unfolded like a chapter in Sweden’s royal story; lofty ceilings, towering mirrors framed in gold, and parquet floors polished to a soft sheen. The State Apartments glowed with natural light pouring in from tall windows, bouncing off crystal chandeliers.

We walked under the ceiling frescoes, where entire mythological scenes unfurled overhead. In one hall, gods and goddesses swept across the sky in swirling clouds. In another, allegories of power and wisdom were rendered in soft, luminous tones.

Moving deeper into the palace, we wandered through lavishly decorated halls filled with tapestries, portraits, and carved pilasters. One gallery opened to another, revealing opulent furniture upholstered in rich brocades, walls dressed with intricate stuccowork, and candelabras standing like silent sentinels from another age.

When we finally stepped out into the sunlight, the Palace Gardens opened up in layers. Formal Baroque layouts framed elegant fountains. Beyond them, a more natural English park invited quiet exploration. We wandered shaded paths, pausing often just to soak in the serene atmosphere.

The Palace as seen from the Garden

Tucked deep within the gardens was the Chinese Pavilion, a charming summer retreat built for the queen. Its red‑lacquered walls and gilded dragons offered a playful contrast to the palace’s formality. Another highlight was the Palace Theatre – the Drottningholm Court Theatre where original stage machinery, hand‑painted scenery, and wooden chandeliers lit by candlelight still survive here, making it the oldest theatre of its kind still in use.

Chinese Pavilion

Palace Theatre

By afternoon, it was time to head back, not just to Solna, but onward to the next chapter of our journey.


From Stockholm to Bergen: The Gateway to the Fjords

After checking out from our hotel in Solna, we made our way to Arlanda Airport once again; this time, bound for Norway.

The short haul flight from Arlanda to Bergen was a visual treat from start to finish. As it crossed into Norwegian airspace, the breathtaking view from above unfolded like a dream; glittering lakes, snow-dusted peaks, and winding fjords stitched together.

Bird's eye view of the fjords from the flight

Bergen, famously known as Norway’s picture-perfect gateway to the fjords, greeted us with its signature charm. From the airport, the sleek Bybanen light rail whisked us toward the city, gliding past quiet suburbs and forested hills before arriving at Byparken station in the heart of Bergen Sentrum. From there, it was just a brief walk to Ole Vigs Gate in Møhlenpris, where we settled into a lavish 3-bedroom apartment closer to the University of Bergen community.

As evening approached, we strolled down to the harbour and into Bryggen, the historic wharf lined with colourful wooden houses that once belonged to Hanseatic merchants. At that time of the evening, the streets were buzzing softly with a series of vintage cars exhibition.

The Historic District of Bryggen as seen from the fjords

It was a relaxed end to a long, beautiful day; from royal halls and painted ceilings to fjord air and waterfront charm. A perfect transition from Sweden’s history to Norway’s natural magic.

 

Day 4: A Journey Through the Fjords – Myrdal, Flåm, and the Sognefjord

No trip to Norway would be complete without venturing into its fjords, and today was the day we had long anticipated. We started early at Bergen Station, to catch the Bergensbana train to Myrdal. The route itself felt like a trailer of the whole movie; steep mountainsides, snow-covered meadows, winding rivers, and clusters of red cottages dotting the valleys. The train climbed higher and higher, and with every turn, the landscape seemed to expand into something even more magnificent.

At Myrdal, we transferred to the legendary Flåm Railway (Flåmsbana), a masterpiece of engineering and art, for what is known as one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world. As the train descended towards the fjord, the scenery transformed dramatically: roaring waterfalls cascading down sheer cliffs, deep valleys blanketed in wildflowers, and mist curling over the mountain ridges.

Flåmsbana en route

Almost midway, we stepped out to feel the spray of the Kjosfossen waterfall. The thunderous roar of the waterfall and the cascading water was accompanied by an ethereal performance – a hauntingly beautiful song by a costumed “Huldra” – the mythical forest spirit, her voice echoing through the mist and cliffs, turning the moment into pure Nordic magic.

Kjosfossen waterfall

Huldra, the mythical forest spirit

When the train finally rolled into Flåm, we were greeted by a sight straight out of a picture postcard. The village sat at the very edge of Aurlandsfjord, cradled by steep mountains rising almost vertically from the blue water. Bright wooden houses, a tiny station area, a few cafés, and wooden boats floating lazily by the pier; gave us a clear sense of how remote this place really is.

The unparalleled beauty of Flåm

After chilling out in the sun and leisurely strolling through the village, we boarded the Norled Sognefjord cruise, a sleek, modern vessel bound for Bergen through Norway’s longest and deepest fjord. The journey lasted for about five hours, but time seemed to stand still once we began gliding through the still waters.

Sognefjord - The king of fjords

The Sognefjord, also known as the King of the Fjords, looked like an endless corridor of nature’s grandeur. Towering cliffs soared on both sides, some over a thousand meters high, their peaks capped with snow even in summer. Waterfalls cascaded down in silver ribbons, merging into the dark, glassy water below. Occasionally, the boat passed tiny hamlets, clusters of red and white houses perched on narrow strips of land.

The humble cascade of Lægdafossen

At one point, we drifted into the junction of Nærøyfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage site renowned for its raw, untouched beauty. Here, the fjord narrowed dramatically, the mountains closing in so tightly it felt like we were sailing through a giant canyon of stone and mist.

The junction of Aurlandsfjord and Nærøyfjord

As we continued westward, the afternoon sunlight shifted, painting the water in shades of blue and silver. We found ourselves standing out on deck, hair flying in the wind, just watching. The sheer scale of the landscape made everything else feel small. It was one of those rare experiences where words fall short.

Near evening, as the boat approached Bergen, the fjord widened into coastal inlets, dotted with lighthouses and fishing cottages. Returning to the city felt like waking from a beautiful dream. We ended the day with strolling through the quaint streets of Bryggen, still swaying gently from the rhythm of the boat and the memory of those endless fjord walls stretching into the sky.

 

Day 5: Exploring Bergen – Between Mountains and Museums

After the deep tranquillity of the fjords, we dedicated the next day to discovering Bergen itself, a city where every turn seems to offer a new perspective of sky, water, and mountain.

We kicked off the morning with a ride on the Fløibanen Funicular, one of Bergen’s most beloved attractions. We boarded the bright red car at the lower station near Bryggen. The eight-minute ride to the upper station felt like gliding through a dreamscape, ending in a moment of pure serenity at the summit of Mount Fløyen.

At the Fløyen viewpoint, the panorama was breathtaking; the entire city lay spread out below, framed by green hills and blue fjords. To one side, the shimmering waters of Vågen Harbour; to the other, the endless stretch of forest that seemed to go on forever.

Bird's eye view of Bergen from Mount Fløyen

After soaking in the view, we wandered farther up the trails that crisscross the mountaintop. It was hard to believe such wilderness existed just minutes from the city centre; tranquil lakes, moss-covered boulders, and soft forest paths. We stopped at Lake Skomakerdiket, a small mirror-like pond reflecting the pine trees that surrounded it, and then wandered through Trollskogen (Troll Park), where whimsical wooden trolls peeking out from behind trees, delighting both children and adults.

One of the Trolls at Trollskogen

Instead of taking the funicular back down, we decided to hike down the mountain. The descent followed a gently winding gravel trail that gradually opened up to reveal ever-changing views of the city. Every few turns, we stopped just to take it all in; red rooftops clustered near the water, church spires rising through the trees, and ferries leaving silver waves behind them.

By afternoon, we found ourselves strolling through Bryggen again. We explored Bergenhus Fortress, which contains the Håkon’s Hall, the grand medieval banquet hall built by King Håkon IV, and the Rosenkrantz Tower, which once guarded the harbour. A short walk led us to St. Mary’s Church (Mariakirken), one of Norway’s oldest stone churches, its Romanesque architecture quietly elegant amidst the lively harbour.

Bergenhus Fortress with Håkon’s Hall (extreme left) and Rosenkrantz Tower (right)

We ended the day at Festplassen, the city’s open-air plaza and cultural heart. Nearby stood the Grieg Hall (Grieghallen), a striking concert venue known for its modern architecture and world-class performances, and the KODE Art Museums, showcasing works by Edvard Munch and other Scandinavian masters. With all the fountains, gardens, and reflections on the nearby Lille Lungegårdsvannet Lake, it offered a serene finale to a day steeped in history and beauty.

The tranquil Lille Lungegårdsvannet Lake at the Festplassen

Day 6: Bergen’s Coastal Charms – Osøyro and Sandviken

For our final day in Norway, we ventured beyond the city to explore Bergen’s suburbs and its tranquil coastal gems.

We started the morning with a short bus ride down south to Osøyro, a serene town nestled along the Bjørnafjorden. We followed the trail up to Lysefjell, where the blue expanse of the fjord with its countless inlets, the Tysnes Mountains rising in the south, and the Folgefonna Glacier faintly visible on the distant horizon, all unfolded like tiny brushstrokes on a vast canvas.

The colourful town of Osøyro

Bjornafjorden as seen from Osøyro

In the afternoon, we headed back toward Bergen and made a detour to Sandviken, one of the city’s oldest and most picturesque districts. Among its charming wooden houses stood the striking Sandvik Church (Sandvikskirken), a beautiful neo-Gothic structure built of red brick in the late 19th century.

Sandvikskirken

From Fjords to Boulevards: Back to Sweden

Later that afternoon, we boarded another short haul flight from Bergen to Gothenburg, which offered another window show; endless fjords and snow-capped peaks slowly giving way to Sweden’s softer landscapes; forests, lakes, and the scattered islands of its western archipelago. By the time we reached Gothenburg city centre and checked into our hotel, we felt both content and reflective, carrying Norway’s wild beauty with us as we returned once more to the city life of Sweden.

 

Day 7: A Day in Gothenburg – Cozy Streets, Green Parks, and a Touch of History

Our visit to Gothenburg felt like stepping into a city that balances small‑town charm with a cosmopolitan vibe. From cobbled streets and hilltop fortresses to vast green parks, every corner offered something special.

We started our day in Haga, Gothenburg’s oldest and most vibrant district. Haga Nygata, the main pedestrian street is full of wooden houses with lace‑curtained windows, boutiques spilling over with handmade crafts, and antique shops tucked into historic buildings. At the heart of the district stood Haga Kyrkan, an elegant 19th century church whose soft brick façade and serene interior offered a peaceful pause. Just outside the church garden, we caught a glimpse of the famous Rainbow Snake, a colourful piece of public art, though the main 320-meter sculpture lies hidden underground in the nearby metro station.

The Haga District

From Haga, we set off on a short but steep walk up to Skansen Kronan, a 17th century hilltop fortress that once protected the city. The climb was totally worth it. At the top, the stone walls stood silent but proud, and the view over Gothenburg’s rooftops and the harbour beyond was breathtaking. We lingered there for a while, and then headed west towards Linneplatsen, a lively area where trams clattered past cafés and restaurants with outdoor seating.

Skansen Kronan

Gothenburg City as seen from Skansen Kronan

From Linneplatsen, it was just a short walk into the vast green expanse of Slottskogen Park, a sprawling 137-hectare park in central Gothenburg. It’s a local favourite for picnics and leisurely walks; wide lawns, winding paths under tall trees, and everyone enjoying the sunshine. Once we wandered into the Children’s Zoo, not only the little ones, but the adults were delighted as well by the sight of penguins wobbling by the water and sea lions basking in the sun.

Humboldt Penguin

Right next door was the Botanical Garden, one of the largest in Europe and an absolute must-see. The garden unfolded like a living tapestry: serene Japanese glades, rock gardens bursting with alpine blooms, and greenhouses sheltering orchids and exotic plants. We found a quiet bench, closed our eyes for a moment, and just breathed in the scent of earth and fresh blossoms.

Botanical Garden

As the day wound down, we made our way back toward the city centre to visit Domkyrkan, Gothenburg’s grand cathedral. Its simple yet graceful interior offered a calm space to sit and reflect. Our final stop was Järntorget, a lively square that perfectly captured Gothenburg’s creative energy.

Domkyrkan

Day 8: Back to Stockholm Through Scenic Rails

After exploring Gothenburg, it was time to return to Stockholm. We boarded an SJ train in the morning, settling by the window as the city slowly faded away. The 5 hours journey through the Swedish countryside felt like a canvas in motion; endless forests, meadows dotted with red barns, pristine lakes brushing against a bright summer sky.

In the late afternoon, we rolled into Sundbyberg, followed by a bus ride to the hotel in Solna, the same place we had started our journey days earlier. It felt almost like coming full circle; familiar streets, the same welcoming lobby, and that feeling of returning “home” even while traveling.

This day was more than just a transition; it was a quiet pause between adventures. The evening ended just as it had begun in the first day, with a second reunion at our friend’s place. The conversation picked up right where it had left off; laughter, stories, and another round of delicious home-cooked Indian food. After a week of exploration and discovery, it felt like coming home.

 

Day 9: Islands, Green Havens, and Grand Icons – Vaxholm, Djurgården, City Centre & City Hall

The morning began with a cheerful bus ride to Vaxholm, joined by our friends eager to share one more Swedish adventure. Vaxholm, often called the gateway to the Stockholm Archipelago, greeted us with its old-world coastal charm. After some light outdoor activities along the harbour, we set out to explore the historic town, with its pastel wooden houses, cozy cafés, and art boutiques, and admired the Vaxholm Fortress (Vaxholms Kastell) across the narrow channel, a sturdy 16th century stronghold that once guarded the approach to Stockholm by sea.

Vaxholm Fortress

By noon time, we boarded a boat (Waxholmsbolaget) bound for Lidingö, gliding through the Stockholm Archipelago, a maze of nearly 30,000 islands and islets scattered like jewels over the Baltic. From Lidingö, another boat ride carried us to Djurgården, Stockholm’s green oasis. The island unfolded in leafy tranquillity; wide paths, blooming gardens, and glimpses of the archipelago through the trees.

Djurgården as seen from the boat

A walk through its scenic trails led us to the Vasa Museum, home to the magnificent 17th century warship that famously sank on its maiden voyage and was miraculously recovered centuries later. The Nordiska Museet was our next stop; a grand, quiet space that walked us through Sweden’s cultural story, from folk traditions to everyday life.

Nordic Museum at the Djurgården

Next came Skansen, the world’s oldest open-air museum, where traditional Swedish houses, workshops, and farmsteads recreated centuries of rural life. From there, a short stroll brought us to the ABBA Museum, a lively celebration of Sweden’s most beloved pop icons, complete with music, costumes, and the irresistible nostalgia.

Skansen Museum at Djurgården

Late afternoon, we took another tram ride back to Stockholm’s historic city centre, passing landmarks like the Royal Palace, the Parliament House (Riksdagshuset), and the elegant Opera House, each glowing warmly under the fading daylight.

Swedish Parliament

The perfect finale awaited at Stockholm City Hall (Stadshuset), one of the city’s most striking landmarks. Its red-brick façade rose gracefully along the waterfront, coronated by the golden Three Crowns. Inside, grand halls such as the Blue Hall hosts the Nobel Banquet each December; and the Golden Hall shimmers with mosaics made of over 18 million gold tiles depicting Sweden’s history and mythology.

Stockholm City Hall

Standing in the courtyard as twilight deepened over Lake Mälaren, the reflection of City Hall in the still water seemed to capture the essence of Stockholm itself; elegant, enduring, and endlessly enchanting. It was the perfect note to end our Scandinavian journey on.


Day 10: Homeward Bound

The early morning taxi ride to Arlanda Airport felt a bit symbolic, like tracing the journey in reverse, leaving behind cobbled streets and fjord trails as we headed back toward familiar skies. The return flight via Munich was uneventful. When the lights of Mumbai finally appeared below, it hit us how far we had come, not just in miles, but in moments. Ten days of travel, stories, and friendship, wrapped up into one unforgettable summer. The Nordic calm had already turned into nostalgia, but the feeling stayed; that quiet promise that one day, we will be back, “Schwarzenegger style”.

Thursday, October 12, 2023

Exploring the Ancient Marvels of Greece

We recently went on an epic Greek vacation with family and friends. We couldn't wait to share all the thrilling experiences and unforgettable memories we made during our stay in this beautiful Mediterranean country with rich history and stunning landscapes. From exploring ancient ruins to splashing in the turquoise waters, Greece truly stole our hearts.


Day 1: Arrival in Athens

As soon as we landed in Athens, we felt an exciting mix of enjoyment and curiosity. Our adventure had officially begun.

Like other European metro cities, Athens has a good public transport system. From the airport, we took the metro to Omonoia Square, where our hotel was located. This is one of the three important squares in Athens, the other two being Monastiraki Square and Syntagma Square.

After a brief rest, we had walked down to Monastiraki Square via Athinas Street. This vibrant square is a melting pot of history, culture, and contemporary life. The narrow alleys of the flea market are lined with shops and stalls selling everything from vintage treasures to handmade crafts. The neighbouring streets host a cluster of taverns and bistros offering tourists with a traditional culinary experience.

A short walk from Monastiraki Square led us to the fascinating Hadrian's Library. This ancient Roman library, built by Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century CE, was a storehouse of valuable rolls of papyrus and other artwork. Later, three Byzantine churches were built within its ruins in the 5th, 7th, and 12th century CE. All these churches and the outer wall of the library with Corinthian columns form part of the ruins.

The next stop was the Ancient Agora, a bustling marketplace in ancient times sitting below the sacred hill of the Acropolis. Around 2nd century CE, the Agora was the heart of community life in Athens. Several administrative buildings, temples, altars, stoas, and fountain houses were built around the open square over many centuries. Walking among the well-preserved ruins in this massive site, we imagined the the vibrant trade and the socio-cultural gatherings that once took place around here.

Ancient Agora near Monastiraki Square

On the northwest side of the Agora, the Temple of Hephaestus is one the best preserved ancient Greek temples. Construction being started in 449 BCE; it was transformed into a Greek Orthodox Church gradually from 7th century CE onwards.

The Roman Agora, which is a stone’s throw away, later became the city’s administrative and commercial centre during Julius Caesar’s time. During the Byzantine and Ottoman periods, the area was covered with houses, workshops, and churches along with a mosque. The most important monuments of this site are Gate of Athena Archegetis, East Propylon, Fethiye Djami (Turkish Mosque), Agoranomion, to name a few.

Roman Agora near Monastiraki Square

As evening set in, we explored the backside of Acropolis Hill and reached the nearby Syntagma Square through pedestrian street Ermou. After enjoying traditional Greek delicacies in a local tavern, we returned to our hotel via Panepistimiou Street.


Day 2: Corinth

Next day, from Athens Central Station, we boarded an early morning regional train to Corinth, which is famous for its namesake canal. The train ride to Corinth took around an hour, and the scenic route showcased the natural beauty of the shimmering Mediterranean Sea. The Corinth Canal is an artificial canal that connects the Gulf of Corinth in the Ionian Sea with the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea. It cuts through the narrow Isthmus of Corinth and separates the Peloponnese from the Greek mainland. It is 6.4 km in length and only 24.6 m wide at sea level, making it inaccessible for bigger ships.

Corinth Canal

After arriving in the city of Corinth, we were greeted by the towering sight of the Acrocorinth, an ancient fortress situated on the top of a steep monolithic rock. Reaching the castle required some intense hiking on steep and slippery rocks. However, it was worth the time because the panoramic view of the Peloponnese Peninsula from the top was breath-taking. The castle is a classic example of fortification architecture, displaying construction details and decorative elements from all periods of its history. The walls are built along three defensive lines and are reinforced by towers, bastions and battlements filled with cannon openings.

Acrocorinth


Peloponnese Peninsula view from Acrocorinth

After hiking down to the city centre, we fast paced through the Ancient Corinth Archaeological Site, where quite a few historical wonders awaited us. Walking amidst the ruins of Temple of Apollo, Roman Forum, Bema of Saint Paul and so many public buildings, we could feel the echoes of the Corinthian past resonating through time.

Temple of Apollo at Ancient Corinth


Corinth Archaeological Site

After a brief stride into the Corinth’s modern shopping district, we bid farewell to the historical city and went onboard a return train to Athens. From Athens Central Station, Syntagma Square is about 2 km far. Though we were little exhausted by the daylong trip, we chose to visit this vibrant place what is otherwise known as heart of Athens. The walk through Panepistimiou Street was nothing short of Amazing. The historical buildings of the University of Athens, the Academy of Athens, the National Library, the Numismatic Museum, the Catholic Cathedral of Athens are all along this street (“Panepistimiou” means “University” in Greek).

National and Kapodistrian University of Athens


National Library of Athens

At Syntagma Square, the first thing that attracted our attention was the iconic Old Royal Palace, which now houses the Greek Parliament. The first glimpse of the Parliament Building, with its Evzones Guards and changing of the guard ceremony, left us awestruck. We learnt about the historical and cultural significance of this ritual, which has been preserved for centuries. We spent a significant amount of time by exploring the pedestrian shopping district of Ermou Street. From high-end boutiques to local shops, we found everything from fashionable clothing to traditional souvenirs.

Changing of Guard ceremony at Royal Palace (now Greek Parliament), Syntagma Square


Day 3: Delphi

Delphi, an ancient marvel located just a few hours’ drive from Athens, is a must-visit destination for both nature lovers and history aficionados. We set out on an early morning ride to Delphi by a minivan. The final stretch of the road wound through a breath-taking scenery of Mount Parnassus. After the scenic drive, we finally arrived in the mystical marvel of Delphi, settled on the slopes of Parnassos National Park.

The gigantic archaeological site of Delphi includes two sanctuaries, dedicated to Apollo and Athena, and other buildings, mostly intended for sporting and cultural activities. We wandered through the Sacred Way, marvelled at the Polygonal Wall, the Athenian Treasury, and the Siphnian Treasury. This incredible Polygonal Wall supports the platform on which the Temple of Apollo stands. The Temple of Apollo is the most important monument in the sanctuary, which dominates the landscape with its iconic columns. This is where the offerings to the god were kept, and where the religious rituals took place.

Polygonal Wall at Delphi


Temple of Apollo at Delphi

The Ancient Amphitheatre and the Ancient Stadium are two of the best-preserved monuments in Greece. They are living testaments to the musical contests, religious festivals, and the well-known Pythian Games held in ancient times. The Stadium is situated in the northwest side of the Theatre and is the highest point of this ancient city. The Delphi Archaeological Museum is a treasure trove of artifacts excavated from the site.

Amphitheatre of Delphi

The Tholos of Athena Pronaia, the symbol of Delphi today, is situated half a kilometre away from the main archaeological site. The Tholos, a masterpiece of classical architecture, is the most important monument of this small sanctuary. The adjoining Ancient Gymnasium along with the Castalian Fountain completes the captivating day trip to this pilgrimage of gods and legends.

Tholos of Athena Pronaia at Delphi

During the return to Athens, we stopped over at the vibrant hill station of Arachova, which is a famous ski town during winter months, but not so crowded during summer. This quaint little town with uphill small houses and cobbled streets is a treat for the eyes.

The picturesque town of Arachova


Day 4: Santorini – Kamari, Fira and Oia

From Athens, we took a domestic flight to the enchanting island of Santorini. Famous for its stunning sunsets, white-washed buildings, and blue-domed churches against the backdrop of deep blue sea, Santorini has been a dream destination for travellers.

We decided to stay in the beach village of Kamari, which is known for its captivating sunrise and black sand beach. We spent a lot of time on the black sand beach, in front of our beachfront hotel.

The only public transport in the island is bus, with Fira being the central location. That means from different corners of the island, one must come to Fira by a bus, then transfer to another bus to go to another location.

Located on a 400 m altitude on the western edge of the crescent-shaped Caldera, Fira is perched above a cliffside, offering panoramic views of the Aegean Sea and the nearby islands. Thousands of visitors arrive every year to spend a holiday in this colourful village and admire the views, turning Santorini into one of Greece's most photographed locations.

View of Fira from the Caldera Trail

The houses of Fira are typically Cycladic and cubic-shaped, with low ceilings, whitewashed walls, and blue-painted details. For history enthusiasts, there are several medieval churches worth visiting, e.g., the Catholic Cathedral, the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral, the Dominican Convent, the Agios Stylianos Catholic Church with the uniquely painted walls, the Agios Minas Church that overlooks the sea, the Agios Ioannis Theologos Church that has an unusual style of architecture, and the Three Bells Church with its remarkable bell tower and massive blue dome.

Three Bells Church at Fira


Blue Staircase at Fira

Firostefani is a neighbouring settlement towards the northern side of the island. After strolling through the crescent-shaped Caldera Trail, we made a stop at a cliffside tavern at Firostefani to have a traditional Greek lunch and to simultaneously enjoy the spectacular views.

A northbound 12 km bus journey took us to Oia, the most visited village in Santorini and the second largest after Fira. This village is situated above an imposing cliff, overlooking the caldera and the whole island of Santorini. Straight out of a postcard, Oia is certainly the most picturesque village in Santorini, offering Cycladic beauty, whitewashed houses, sun-kissed terraces, blue-domed churches, and most importantly, the magical sunset.

View of Oia from the Caldera Trail

We wandered through the labyrinth-like alleys, discovering the iconic blue-domed churches one after another, namely Anastasi Church, Agios Spyridon Church, Three Dome Church, Church of Agios Nikolaos, and many more. The blue-domed churches are easy to spot, and they add an extra charm to the picturesque landscape. They have traditional Cycladic architecture and are amongst of the most charming landmarks in the whole of Greece.

Blue Dome Church at Oia

Along with the churches, we got to see some of the best panoramic vistas to the blue sea and volcanic islands. We rounded off the sightseeing by visiting the famous Windmill and the 15th century CE Venetian Castle. At the end of the day, we found the best spot on the cliff to experience the beautiful fairy tale-like sunset; to be stunned at the colour palette formed in the sky.

The return from Oia to Kamari was another one-hour affair and achieved by boarding two connecting buses (via Fira central bus station).


Day 5: Santorini – Volcanic Islands

Kamari village being on the eastern coast of Santorini Island, it is famous for sunrise over the black sand beach. We spent the entire morning shooting different positions of the sun in the horizon and upwards.

Next, we travelled to the Old Port of Fira, where we made reservations for a boating excursion to the nearby volcanic islands located in the Aegean Sea. The downward stride from central Fira to Old Port was through 600 steps of a steep staircase. The entire steps were filled with moving donkeys and their droppings, making it difficult for us to walk smoothly. Because of that filth, it is very common to slip on the stairs and sprain an ankle.

Old Port, Fira

At the Old Port, the wooden sailboat Santa Irini was straight out of Greek Mythology. It stands out amongst the modern cruise liners and yachts. The boat first anchored very close to Palea Kameni Island, which houses hot volcanic springs inside the sea. We were allowed to swim to the hot springs, which was about 50 m from the boat, and return within a fixed time. However, the first part of the swim was chilling, and we jumped out of the water immediately since the water temperature was 18 °C. Not giving up, we tried again after a little bit of acclimatization and succeeded this time. Closer to the springs, the water gradually warms up to 25 °C. A small church named after Agios Taxiarchis is located next to the springs, a bit usual place in our opinion.

Palea Kameni Island

The return swim to the boat was again a challenge considering the gradual decrease in sea water temperature. After drying ourselves inside the boat, it started sailing again and took us to the nearby Nea Kameni Island; a small uninhabited island of volcanic origin. We hiked about 1.5 km through a steep, gravel path amidst a breathtaking arid landscape to reach the top of the 150 m high volcanic crater to experience the remnants of a live volcano. Memories of Yellowstone National Park were refreshed after seeing the smoke and small eruptions of the active sulfur vents.

Nea Kameni Island


Active sulfur vents at Nea Kameni Island

After returning to the Old Port, we had climbed the same 600 steps and encountered the same donkeys to reach the main market of Fira. A soul-satisfying shopping experience later, we made a short trip to the Red Beach at Akrotiri, which stands out with its unique red-hued cliffs and volcanic sands. It's a beautiful spot for relaxation and photography.

Red Beach

We also had plans to visit the Minoan Archaeological Site of Akrotiri, but it was closed by the time we had arrived there. The return from Akrotiri to Kamari was again achieved by two connecting buses via Fira central bus station.


Day 6: Athens Riviera and Syntagma Square

An early morning flight brought us back to Athens, and we checked into the same hotel at Omonoia Square. An RT-PCR test was required for the return travel to India. While walking towards the clinic, we unexpectedly discovered the National Archaeological Museum en route.

National Archaeological Museum of Athens

In the afternoon, we went on to explore the Athens Riviera, a stunning coastal stretch that combines the ancient charm of Athens with the tranquil atmosphere of a beach retreat. From Omonoia, we took the metro to Syntagma, and from there we took the Riviera Tram to Asklipio Voulas, which is the last stop on the tramline and next to the Voula Beach.

Athens Riviera

Situated less than an hour away from the centre of Athens, Voula Beach is one of the most popular beaches in the Riviera. As it was a bright sunny day, we could clearly see the neighbouring islands, ships, ferries, and fishing boats from the beach. There are multiple facilities in the beach including tennis court, volleyball court, water slides, children's play area, snack bar, ample sunbeds, sun umbrellas, sun loungers, shower stalls and changing rooms. The crystal-clear blue water, lush green trees and soft golden sand made it a perfect spot for sunbathing and swimming.

After spending half a day at Athens Riviera, we returned via tram to the hep and happening Syntagma Square. The rest of the evening was spent by shopping and dining in the lively pedestrian street Ermou.


Day 7: Athens – Wonders of Acropolis

The last day at Athens was dedicated to marvel in the ancient wonders of Acropolis. The Acropolis is an ancient citadel stood proudly above a rocky hill in the centre of the city. The tour starts right from Acropolis metro station. After entering through the south slope of the Acropolis Hill, we could feel the history and mythology seeping through the stones.

The first point of attraction is the Theatre of Dionysus, which is one of the earliest surviving theatres of classical Greece and is known as the birthplace of European theatre. Around 500 BCE, the semicircular theatre was set up near the temple of Dionysus and provided seating for about 25000 spectators.

As we climbed up, the monumental gateway named Propylaea welcomed us to the hilltop containing the major monuments of Acropolis. The small Temple of Athena Nike sits atop the rock wall just to the right of the Propylaea Gate.

After entering through the gateway, we were fascinated by the majestic structure of Parthenon. This architectural wonder was built around 440 BCE in gratitude to goddess Athena. The building is one of the best examples of Doric architecture. It remains one of the most important surviving architectural monuments of Greece and, over the years, has served an inspiration for many public buildings worldwide: parliaments, universities, museums, libraries, to name a few.

Parthenon at Acropolis Hill

Adjacent to Parthenon, the Erechtheion forms part of the Acropolis and is one of the finest examples of Ionic architecture. The temple, constructed around 400 BCE, was dedicated to three Gods, Athena (Goddess of wisdom), Poseidon (God of sea) and the snake-bodied hero Erechtonius.

Erechtheion at Acropolis Hill

After soaking in the 360° panoramic views of the city from the top of the hill, we started our descent towards Odeon of Herodes Atticus. Erected around 160 CE, this stone amphitheatre is one of the largest surviving classical Greek theatres in Athens. From ancient times to the present days, it has been the venue of musical and theatre performances of well-known Greek and international performers. In recent times, acclaimed artists like Luciano Pavarotti, Sting and Yanni have given memorable performances at this venue.

Odeon of Herodes Atticus

Down the south-eastern slope of the hill, the Acropolis Museum houses all artifacts found in and around the Acropolis since 2009. The exhibits are displayed on the first three levels and the fourth level houses the museum giftshop. The outside entryway and walkways are mostly glass floors, showcasing the dug-out remains of a civilization beneath us.

Further down the road, the enormous structure of Temple of Olympian Zeus stands tall inside an empty field. Construction began in 6th century BCE and finished about 600 years later during Emperor Hadrian’s time.

We continued our walk towards Panathenaic Stadium, which is the world's oldest major stadium and was built entirely of white marble. In the 4th century BCE, the stadium hosted the ancient Olympic Games every four years in honour of the Goddess Athena. It had a seating capacity of 50000 then. In late 19th century CE, the remnants of the ancient structure were excavated and renovated for the revival of the modern Olympic Games. The first international Olympic Games was inaugurated and held in this stadium in 1896 CE.

Panathenaic Stadium

After daylong walking around the ancient, medieval, and modern historical wonders, we were overwhelmed to say the least. We boarded the Riviera bound tram to spend some relaxation time on the beaches. We preferred the Faliro Beach, which is considered the gateway to the Riviera and just next to the tram stop Edem. The beach as well as the whole waterfront promenade are a quick escape from urban life, albeit being very close to the city centre.

After boarding the return tram from Edem, we rounded off the day with further visits to Syntagma Square and Monastiraki Square, which came alive in the evening with street performers, musicians, and artists, especially in front of the Church of the Presentation of Virgin Mary. We revisited the Ancient Agora and Roman Agora (from outside the boundary walls), completed the mandatory shopping with souvenirs, clothes, spices, and desserts, and started walking towards the hotel via pedestrian street Aiolou.

About midway, we stumbled upon the ruins of Acharnian Road and Tombs at the Kotzia Square. This excavation of 4th century BCE ruins was not in our list and provided the obligatory “icing on the cake” (of our entire trip).


Saying Goodbye

Our time in Greece has been nothing short of extraordinary. From the historic wonders to the picturesque islands, this vibrant country has captivated our heart. We had grown so attached to amalgamation of history, culture, and contemporary life, that when we boarded the plane back home, we felt grateful for the memories we had created together.