Thursday, October 12, 2023

Exploring the Ancient Marvels of Greece

Disclaimer:
  • This is a very long post. We tried our best to shorten it, but this is what we came up with finally. Those who are allergic to long reviews are advised to go to Yelp or Tripadvisor.
  • All the photographs were taken by us and copyrighted. Reproduction in any media is prohibited without permission.
----------------------------------------

We recently went on an epic Greek vacation with family and friends. We couldn't wait to share all the thrilling experiences and unforgettable memories we made during our stay in this beautiful Mediterranean country with rich history, stunning landscapes, and delicious food. From exploring ancient ruins to splashing in the turquoise waters, Greece truly stole our hearts.

Day 1: Arrival in Athens

As soon as we landed in Athens, we felt an exciting mix of enjoyment and curiosity. Our adventure had officially begun.

Like other European metro cities, Athens has a good public transport system. From the airport, we took the metro to Omonoia Square, where our hotel was located. This is one of the three important squares in Athens, the other two being Monastiraki Square and Syntagma Square.

After a brief rest, we had walked down to Monastiraki Square via Athinas Street. This vibrant square is a melting pot of history, culture, and contemporary life. The narrow alleys of the flea market are lined with shops and stalls selling everything from vintage treasures to handmade crafts. The neighbouring streets host a cluster of taverns and bistros offering tourists with a traditional culinary experience.

A short walk from Monastiraki Square led us to the fascinating Hadrian's Library. This ancient Roman library, built by Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century CE, was a storehouse of valuable rolls of papyrus and other artwork. Later, three Byzantine churches were built within its ruins in the 5th, 7th, and 12th century CE. All these churches and the outer wall of the library with Corinthian columns form part of the ruins.

The next stop was the Ancient Agora, a bustling marketplace in ancient times sitting below the sacred hill of the Acropolis. Around 2nd century CE, the Agora was the heart of community life in Athens. Several administrative buildings, temples, altars, stoas, and fountain houses were built around the open square over many centuries. Walking among the well-preserved ruins in this massive site, we imagined the debates of philosophers, the vibrant trade, and the socio-cultural gatherings that once took place around here.

Ancient Agora near Monastiraki Square


On the northwest side of the Agora, the Temple of Hephaestus is one the best preserved ancient Greek temples. Construction being started in 449 BCE; it was transformed into a Greek Orthodox Church gradually from 7th century CE onwards.

The Roman Agora, which is a stone’s throw away, later became the city’s administrative and commercial centre during Julius Caesar’s time. During the Byzantine and Ottoman periods, the area was covered with houses, workshops, and churches along with a mosque. The most important monuments of this site are Gate of Athena Archegetis, East Propylon, Fethiye Djami (Turkish Mosque), Agoranomion, to name a few.

Roman Agora near Monastiraki Square


As evening set in, we explored the backside of Acropolis Hill and reached the nearby Syntagma Square through pedestrian street Ermou. After enjoying traditional Greek delicacies in a local tavern, we returned to our hotel via Panepistimiou Street.

Day 2: Corinth

Next day, from Athens Central Station, we boarded an early morning regional train to Corinth, which is famous for its namesake canal. The train ride to Corinth took around an hour, and the scenic route showcased the natural beauty of the shimmering Mediterranean Sea. The Corinth Canal is an artificial canal that connects the Gulf of Corinth in the Ionian Sea with the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea. It cuts through the narrow Isthmus of Corinth and separates the Peloponnese from the Greek mainland. It is 6.4 km in length and only 24.6 m wide at sea level, making it inaccessible for bigger ships.

Corinth Canal


After arriving in the city of Corinth, we were greeted by the towering sight of the Acrocorinth, an ancient fortress situated on the top of a steep monolithic rock. Reaching the castle required some intense hiking on steep and slippery rocks. However, it was worth the time because the panoramic view of the Peloponnese Peninsula from the top was breath-taking. The castle is a classic example of fortification architecture, displaying construction details and decorative elements from all periods of its history. The walls are built along three defensive lines and are reinforced by towers, bastions and battlements filled with cannon openings.

Acrocorinth



Peloponnese Peninsula view from Acrocorinth


After a traditional Greek lunch in a local tavern, we fast paced through the Ancient Corinth Archaeological Site, where quite a few historical wonders awaited us. Walking amidst the ruins of Temple of Apollo, Roman Forum, Bema of Saint Paul and so many public buildings, we could feel the echoes of the Corinthian past resonating through time.

Temple of Apollo at Ancient Corinth



Corinth Archaeological Site


After a brief stride into the Corinth’s modern shopping district, we bid farewell to the historical city and went onboard a return train to Athens. From Athens Central Station, Syntagma Square is about 2 km far. Though we were little exhausted by the daylong trip, we chose to visit this vibrant place what is otherwise known as heart of Athens. The walk through Panepistimiou Street was nothing short of Amazing. The historical buildings of the University of Athens, the Academy of Athens, the National Library, the Numismatic Museum, the Catholic Cathedral of Athens are all along this street (“Panepistimiou” means “University” in Greek).

National and Kapodistrian University of Athens



National Library of Athens


At Syntagma Square, the first thing that attracted our attention was the iconic Old Royal Palace, which now houses the Greek Parliament. The first glimpse of the Parliament Building, with its Evzones Guards and changing of the guard ceremony, left us awestruck. We learnt about the historical and cultural significance of this ritual, which has been preserved for centuries. We spent a significant amount of time by exploring the pedestrian shopping district of Ermou Street. From high-end boutiques to local shops, we found everything from fashionable clothing to traditional souvenirs. We took breaks at quaint cafes, savouring Greek delicacies and folk music.

Changing of Guard ceremony at Royal Palace (now Greek Parliament), Syntagma Square



Day 3: Delphi

Delphi, an ancient marvel located just a few hours’ drive from Athens, is a must-visit destination for both nature lovers and history aficionados. We set out on an early morning ride to Delphi by a minivan. The final stretch of the road winds through a breath-taking scenery of Mount Parnassus. After the scenic drive, we finally arrived in the mystical marvel of Delphi, settled on the slopes of Parnassos National Park.

The gigantic archaeological site of Delphi includes two sanctuaries, dedicated to Apollo and Athena, and other buildings, mostly intended for sporting and cultural activities. We wandered through the Sacred Way, marvelled at the Polygonal Wall, the Athenian Treasury, and the Siphnian Treasury. This incredible Polygonal Wall supports the platform on which the Temple of Apollo stands. The Temple of Apollo is the most important monument in the sanctuary, which dominates the landscape with its iconic columns. This is where the offerings to the god were kept, and where the religious rituals took place.

Polygonal Wall at Delphi



Temple of Apollo at Delphi


The Ancient Amphitheatre and the Ancient Stadium are two of the best-preserved monuments in Greece. They are living testaments to the musical contests, religious festivals, and the well-known Pythian Games held in ancient times. The Stadium is situated in the northwest side of the Theatre and is the highest point of this ancient city. The Delphi Archaeological Museum is a treasure trove of artifacts excavated from the site.

Amphitheatre of Delphi


The Tholos of Athena Pronaia, the symbol of Delphi today, is situated half a kilometre away from the main archaeological site. The Tholos, a masterpiece of classical architecture, is the most important monument of this small sanctuary. The adjoining Ancient Gymnasium along with the Castalian Fountain completes the captivating day trip to this pilgrimage of gods and legends.

Tholos of Athena Pronaia at Delphi


During the return to Athens, we stopped over at the vibrant hill station of Arachova, which is a famous ski town during winter months, but not so crowded during summer. This quaint little town with uphill small houses and cobbled streets is a treat for the eyes. At a local tavern in the town centre, we feasted on authentic Greek cuisine before we started our return journey to Athens.

The picturesque town of Arachova



Day 4: Santorini – Kamari, Fira and Oia

From Athens, we took a domestic flight to the enchanting island of Santorini. Famous for its stunning sunsets, white-washed buildings, and blue-domed churches against the backdrop of deep blue sea, Santorini has been a dream destination for travellers.

We decided to stay in the beach village of Kamari, which is known for its captivating sunrise and black sand beach. We spent a lot of time on the black sand beach, in front of our beachfront hotel.

The only public transport in the island is bus, with Fira being the central location. That means from different corners of the island, one must come to Fira by a bus, then board another bus to go to another location.

Located on a 400 m altitude on the western edge of the crescent-shaped Caldera, Fira is perched above a cliffside, offering panoramic views of the Aegean Sea and the nearby islands. Thousands of visitors arrive every year to spend a holiday in this colourful village and admire the views, turning Santorini into one of Greece's most photographed locations.

View of Fira from the Caldera Trail


The houses of Fira are typically Cycladic and cubic-shaped, with low ceilings, whitewashed walls, and blue-painted details. For history enthusiasts, there are several medieval churches worth visiting, e.g., the Catholic Cathedral, the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral, the Dominican Convent, the Agios Stylianos Catholic church with the uniquely painted walls, the Agios Minas church that overlooks the sea, the Agios Ioannis Theologos church that has an unusual style of architecture, and the Three Bells Church with its remarkable bell tower and massive blue dome.

Three Bells Church at Fira



Blue Staircase at Fira


Firostefani is a neighbouring settlement towards the northern side of the island. After strolling through the crescent-shaped Caldera trail, we made a stop at a cliffside tavern at Firostefani to have a traditional Greek lunch and to simultaneously enjoy the spectacular views.

A northbound 12 km bus journey took us to Oia, the most visited village in Santorini and the second largest after Fira. This village is situated above an imposing cliff, overlooking the caldera and the whole island of Santorini. Straight out of a postcard, Oia is certainly the most picturesque village in Santorini, offering Cycladic beauty, whitewashed houses, sun-kissed terraces, blue-domed churches, and most importantly, the magical sunset.

View of Oia from the Caldera Trail


We wandered through the labyrinth-like alleys, discovering the iconic blue-domed churches one after another, namely Anastasi Church, Agios Spyridon Church, Three Dome Church, Church of Agios Nikolaos, and many more. The blue-domed churches are easy to spot, and they add an extra charm to the picture postcard landscape. They have traditional Cycladic architecture and are amongst of the most charming landmarks in the whole of Greece.

Blue Dome Church at Oia


Along with the churches, we got to see some of the best panoramic vistas to the blue sea and volcanic islands. We rounded off the sightseeing by visiting the famous Windmill and the 15th century CE Venetian Castle. At the end of the day, we found the best spot on the cliff to experience the beautiful fairy tale-like sunset; to be stunned at the colour palette formed in the sky.

The return from Oia to Kamari was another one-hour affair and achieved by boarding two connecting buses (via Fira central bus station).

Day 5: Santorini – Volcanic Islands

Kamari village being on the eastern coast of Santorini Island, it is famous for sunrise over the black sand beach. We spent the entire morning shooting different positions of the sun in the horizon and upwards.

Next, we travelled to the Old Port of Fira, where we made reservations for a boating excursion to the nearby volcanic islands located in the Aegean Sea. The downward stride from central Fira to Old Port was through 600 steps of a steep staircase. The entire steps were filled with moving donkeys and their droppings, making it difficult for us to walk smoothly. Because of that filth, it is very common to slip on the stairs and sprain an ankle.

Old Port, Fira


At the Old Port, the wooden sailboat Santa Irini was straight out of Greek Mythology. It stands out amongst the modern cruise liners and yachts. The boat first anchored very close to Palea Kameni Island, which houses hot volcanic springs inside the sea. We were allowed to swim to the hot springs, which was about 50 m from the boat, and return within a fixed time. However, the first part of the swim was chilling, and we jumped out of the water immediately since the water temperature was 18 °C. Not giving up, we tried again after a little bit of acclimatization and succeeded this time. Closer to the springs, the water gradually warms up to 25 °C. A small church named after Agios Taxiarchis is located next to the springs, a bit usual place in our opinion.

Palea Kameni Island


The return swim to the boat was again a challenge considering the gradual decrease in sea water temperature. After drying ourselves inside the boat, it started sailing again and took us to the nearby Nea Kameni Island – a small uninhabited island of volcanic origin. We hiked about 1.5 km through a steep, gravel path amidst a breathtaking arid landscape to reach the top of the 150 m high volcanic crater to experience the remnants of a live volcano. Memories of Yellowstone National Park were refreshed after seeing the smoke and small eruptions of the active sulfur vents.

Nea Kameni Island



Active sulfur vents at Nea Kameni Island


After returning to the Old Port, we had climbed the same 600 steps and encountered the same donkeys to reach the main market of Fira. A soul-satisfying shopping and dining experience later, we made a short trip to the Red Beach at Akrotiri, which stands out with its unique red-hued cliffs and volcanic sands. It's a beautiful spot for relaxation and photography.

Red Beach


We also had plans to visit the Minoan Archaeological Site of Akrotiri, but it was closed by the time we had arrived there. The return from Akrotiri to Kamari was again by two buses via Fira central bus station.

Day 6: Athens Riviera and Syntagma Square

An early morning flight brought us back to Athens, and we checked into the same hotel at Omonoia Square. An RT-PCR test was required for the return travel to India. While walking towards the clinic, we unexpectedly discovered the National Archaeological Museum en route.

National Archaeological Museum of Athens


In the afternoon, we went on to explore the Athens Riviera, a stunning coastal stretch that combines the ancient charm of Athens with the tranquil atmosphere of a beach retreat. From Omonoia, we took the metro to Syntagma, and from there we took the Riviera Tram to Asklipio Voulas, which is the last stop on the tramline and next to the Voula Beach.

Athens Riviera


Situated less than an hour away from the centre of Athens, Voula Beach is one of the most popular beaches in the Riviera. As it was a bright sunny day, we could clearly see the neighbouring islands, ships, ferries, and fishing boats from the beach. There are multiple facilities in the beach including tennis court, volleyball court, water slides, children's play area, snack bar, ample sunbeds, sun umbrellas, sun loungers, shower stalls and changing rooms. The crystal-clear blue water, lush green trees and soft golden sand made it a perfect spot for sunbathing and swimming.

After spending half a day at Athens Riviera, we returned via tram to the hep and happening Syntagma Square. The rest of the evening was spent by shopping and dining in the lively pedestrian street Ermou.

Day 7: Athens – Wonders of Acropolis

The last day at Athens was dedicated to marvel in the ancient wonders of Acropolis. The Acropolis is an ancient citadel stood proudly above a rocky hill in the centre of the city. The tour starts right from Acropolis metro station. After entering through the south slope of the Acropolis Hill, we could feel the history and mythology seeping through the stones.

The first point of attraction is the Theatre of Dionysus, which is one of the earliest surviving theatres of classical Greece and is known as the birthplace of European theatre. Around 500 BCE, the semicircular theatre was set up near the temple of Dionysus and provided seating for about 25000 spectators.

As we climbed up, the monumental gateway named Propylaea welcomed us to the hilltop containing the major monuments of Acropolis. The small Temple of Athena Nike sits atop the rock wall just to the right of the Propylaea Gate.

After entering through the gateway, we were fascinated by the majestic structure of Parthenon. This architectural wonder was built around 440 BCE in gratitude to goddess Athena. The building is one of the best examples of Doric architecture. It remains one of the most important surviving architectural monuments of Greece and, over the years, has served an inspiration for many public buildings worldwide: parliaments, universities, museums, libraries, to name a few.

Parthenon at Acropolis Hill



Adjacent to Parthenon, the Erechtheion forms part of the Acropolis and is one of the finest examples of Ionic architecture. The temple, constructed around 400 BCE, was dedicated to three Gods, Athena (Goddess of wisdom), Poseidon (God of sea) and the snake-bodied hero Erechtonius.

Erechtheion at Acropolis Hill


After soaking in the 360° panoramic views of the city from the top of the hill, we started our descent towards Odeon of Herodes Atticus. Erected around 160 CE, this stone amphitheatre is one of the largest surviving classical Greek theatres in Athens. From ancient times to the present days, it has been the venue of musical and theatre performances of well-known Greek and international performers. In recent times, acclaimed artists like Luciano Pavarotti, Sting and Yanni have given memorable performances at this venue.

Odeon of Herodes Atticus


Down the south-eastern slope of the hill, the Acropolis Museum houses all artifacts found in and around the Acropolis since 2009. The exhibits are displayed on the first three levels and the fourth level houses the museum giftshop. The outside entryway and walkways are mostly glass floors, showcasing the dug-out remains of a civilization beneath us.

Further down the road, the enormous structure of Temple of Olympian Zeus stands tall inside an empty field. Construction began in 6th century BCE and finished about 600 years later during Emperor Hadrian’s time.

We continued our walk towards Panathenaic Stadium, which is the world's oldest major stadium and was built entirely of white marble. In the 4th century BCE, the stadium hosted the ancient Olympic Games every four years in honour of the Goddess Athena. It had a seating capacity of 50000 then. In late 19th century CE, the remnants of the ancient structure were excavated and renovated for the revival of the modern Olympic Games. The first international Olympic Games was inaugurated and held in this stadium in 1896 CE.

Panathenaic Stadium


After daylong walking around the ancient, medieval, and modern historical wonders, we were overwhelmed to say the least. We boarded the Riviera bound tram to spend some relaxation time on the beaches. We preferred the Faliro Beach, which is considered the gateway to the Riviera and just next to the tram stop Edem. The beach as well as the whole waterfront promenade are a quick escape from urban life, albeit being very close to the city centre.

After boarding the return tram from Edem, we rounded off the day with further visits to Syntagma Square and Monastiraki Square, which came alive in the evening with street performers, musicians, and artists, especially in front of the Church of the Presentation of Virgin Mary. We revisited the Ancient Agora and Roman Agora (from outside the boundary walls), completed the mandatory shopping with souvenirs, clothes, spices, and desserts, and started walking towards the hotel via pedestrian street Aiolou.

About midway, we stumbled upon the ruins of Acharnian Road and Tombs at the Kotzia Square. This excavation of 4th century BCE ruins was not in our list and provided the obligatory “icing on the cake” (of our entire trip).

Saying Goodbye

Our time in Greece has been nothing short of extraordinary. From the historic wonders to the picturesque islands, this vibrant country has captivated our heart. We had grown so attached to amalgamation of history, culture, and contemporary life, that when we boarded the plane back home, we felt grateful for the memories we had created together.

Thursday, September 12, 2013

The Valley of Death

Disclaimer:
1. This is not a horror fiction. Just a travel review of Death Valley National Park.
2. Photos subject to copyright.
------------------------------------------------------------

Which national park in the world has the scariest name? The first answer that comes to mind is Death Valley. Despite its creepy name, Death Valley National Park is one of the most strikingly beautiful places on the earth. From the second lowest point in the Western Hemisphere to the hottest point on earth; from 282 ft below sea level to 11,000 ft above sea level; from salt flats to sand dunes; from vibrant canyons to gigantic volcanic craters, this national park is rich with unique geological features. Located between the Great Basin and Mojave Desert, it is the largest national park (area 13,650 sq km) in the mainland US.

We were introduced to the name of Death Valley at a very young age through geography lessons and popular Bengali science fiction. So when the time finally came to visit the Sin City, we gave our best shot towards a daylong tour to DVNP. We started pretty early in the morning, and chose the easiest route, that is the Hwy 95 N route via Indian Springs. After driving 90 miles on Hwy 95 N from Vegas to Lathrop Wells, we switched to Hwy 373, which meets the NV-CA State Line Road at Death Valley Junction after a 25 miles drive. The whole drive of 115 miles through a desolate region felt like a never-ending one.

The distance from Death Valley Junction to Dante’s View Turnoff is 18 miles on Hwy 190. We took a detour on the Dante’s View Road which leads to Dante’s View, arguably the most spectacular viewpoint in the park. This overlook stands at 5475 ft above sea level. The 360° panoramic view from the summit portrays mountain ranges in all directions, which include the Sierra Nevada Mountains (NW), the Grapevine Mountains (N), Mount Charleston (E), and the mountains around Los Angeles (SW). Furthermore, a sweeping view from the floor of Death Valley to the summit of Telescope Peak can be experienced from here.
From -282 ft to +11000 ft, a sweeping vista from Dante's View

Turning back to Hwy 190, another 10 miles drive took us to Furnace Creek Visitor Center. Did the name Furnace Creek ring a bell? Yes, it did. Our textbook knowledge of Death Valley hammered us with the fact that this place had been credited for highest temperature ever recorded (56.7 °C, in 1913) on earth. That justifies the “furnace” in its name. However, in the month of November, the surroundings were pretty cool. The junction of Hwy 190 and Badwater Road is exactly at sea level. From there, one can only go downhill on the Badwater Road and feel the ensuing pressure drop.

The first important stop on the Badwater Road is the Golden Canyon Trailhead. Though our feet were not completely healed from previous month’s Grand Canyon experience, still we opted for this trail, which extends till Zabriskie Point (2.5 miles one way). However, we chose to explore until Red Cathedral (1.5 mile from trailhead) only. This is a moderate trail with elevation gain upto 320 ft. From the start to the end, the trail greeted us with swirls of color, including gray, red, brown, yellow and orange. Golden Canyon conserves geographical legends of the entire DVNP like a virtual wikipedia. The rocks and canyon walls shout out the untold tales of the ancient lakes and showcase the effect of flash floods in a parched land.
Red Cathedral at Golden Canyon Trail

The next stop was the Devil’s Golf Course, which is an immense area of rock salt eroded by wind and rain into jagged spires. Once swathed by a lake, the water evaporated a couple of centuries ago, and left behind large infernal stalagmites and spiky mounds of salt and minerals. A one mile dirt road leads to the parking area, which immediately lures the visitors to step inside the salt pinnacles. But believe me, they are very sharp and makes it very tricky to walk, let alone playing golf. That reminded us of a Bengali proverb about sprinkling salt to an injury. We did not hesitate to salute the person who named this place for his/her uncanny sense of humor.
Devil's Golf Course

Our hiking spree has got the best of us again, so unsurprisingly we stopped at the Natural Bridge Canyon Trailhead. From the trailhead, the 50 ft tall Natural Bridge is only half a mile walk. Being created by differential erosion, this is obviously the main attraction of the canyon, but the trail has more to offer. Analogous to other canyons of the park, a rich display of the geological history is evident through the towering reddish cliffs. In the metamorphic rocks, cute swirls of blue, red, gray and white are prominent. The entire trail is 2 miles roundtrip, gains elevation upto 800 ft, and dead-ends at a 20 ft pour over blocking the canyon.
Natural Bridge Canyon

About 6 miles on the Badwater Road, we finally arrived at the Badwater Basin, which has a surreal landscape of vast salt flats. At 282 ft below sea level, this is the lowest point in North America and second lowest point in the Western Hemisphere. The boardwalk ends where there are some wonderful pressure ridges and cracks in the salt. Apart from the picturesque view of the Telescope Peak (11,049 ft) just across the valley, the Black Mountains (6,000 ft) rose directly out of the salt flats behind the trailhead with a glittering sign indicating the sea level.
Badwater Salt Flats, lowest point in North America

During return, we took another detour through the Artist’s Drive, located about halfway between Furnace Creek and Badwater Basin. This is a 9 mile one way scenic loop drive running through multicolored igneous and sedimentary rocks resembling a grand painter’s palette. Driving through the sharp curves and deep dips felt like a roller coaster ride. The Artist’s Palette vista point is a unique landmark in DVNP and is incredibly photogenic in the late afternoon, especially when the colors start to pop-up with the gradual softening of sunlight. The arrays of the red, yellow, green, blue and purple colors have been created by salts of the first transition metals, mostly Fe and Mn. The whole drive also substantiates one of the most violently explosive volcanic periods. Leave aside history and geography, at the end of the day Artist's Drive is a heavenly place where all superlatives become trivial.
Artist's Palette, incredibly photogenic in the afternoon

After arriving at Furnace Creek again, we were headed further north towards Stovepipe Wells. Few miles down the way, the non-operational Harmony Borax Works symbolizes the erstwhile industrial activity more than a century ago. The ruins of an old cotton-ball borate ore boiling facility and a 20 Mule Team borax wagon train are the primary exhibits in this area. Interestingly, this place also stands 260 ft below sea level.

The principal features of the Stovepipe Wells area are the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes and the Mosaic Canyon; with contrasting characteristics but equally stunning landscapes. While the sunrays of late afternoon accentuated the golden colored ripples of the smoothly rising dunes, the water-polished conglomerate rocks of the Mosaic Canyon represent the finest of the DVNP.
Mosaic Canyon

It was time to wrap up. So many things to do, but so little time we had. We heard a lot about Scotty’s Castle, Ubehebe Crater and Telescope Peak. But we were badly running out of time, and had to start our return journey with heavy heart and optimistic mind. We saved the best for the last, which is the Zabriskie Point, just east of Furnace Creek. Surrounded by a maze of vividly colored eroded mudhill badlands, this is the most popular destination for watching sunset inside the park.

Sunset from Zabriskie Point
 
The trip was concluded by another scenic drive through Twenty Mule Team Canyon. Winding through ethereal wilderness, this 2.7 mile one-way loop drive is unpaved, but equally gorgeous compared to the other scenic drive we took earlier in the day.

Thursday, July 11, 2013

Breathtaking Rockies

Disclaimer:
1. All the humor about wildlife should not be taken literally. We hate disturbing wildlife and hate those doing it.
2. Photos subject to copyright.
------------------------------

We were introduced to the mountains at a very young age, thanks to some enthusiastic family members. The fascination continues till date and will hopefully never ever diminish. Therefore, after landing in the States, one of the places on our bucket list was the Rockies. The reason is simple. This encompasses hundreds of 10000 ft mountains including Longs Peak (14255 ft), one of the tallest in mainland US. However, due to some unfavorable situations, it did not materialize initially. Instead, what we got was Smokeys at late fall. Now that’s an altogether different story – subject of a separate blogpost.
Longs Peak
Luck finally favored us at 2010, when we managed back to back trips to the Tetons and the Rockies. Well not exactly the whole Rockies, but Rocky Mountain National Park, which represents the best of the Rockies. The Continental Divide bisects the park into two distinct regions; (i) a heavily glaciated eastern side, and (ii) a heavily forested western side. Both regions boast of outstanding spots for rock climbing, high altitude hiking, and last but not the least, wildlife watching. The time we chose was the beginning of fall, so that we could perceive the region specific fall foliage, much different from what we normally see in New England.
Autumn colors of Rockies

Day 1
The distance from Denver Airport to RMNP is only 80 miles. This is very convenient when compared with the accessibility of other national parks from important airports. The park can be reached either via Boulder or via Longmont. After crossing Lyons, the last 20 miles drive at Hwy 36, accompanied by Little Thompson River, is incredibly scenic.
The heavenly Lake Estes
We usually prefer to camp at the national parks, but this time we made an exception. The picturesque town of Estes Park (elevation 7522 ft above sea level) is strategically placed just outside the eastern entrance of the park. Before entering the town, you will be bewildered by the view of Lake Estes with Prospect Mountain (8900 ft) at the backdrop . Over and above the scenic vistas, the town also provides spontaneous interactions with fearless wildlife, which cares little about the existence of human beings or motor vehicles. Your day could start with greetings from an elk while taking a casual morning walk on the hotel lawns, or end with a deer hitchhiking at the side of the highway. The downtown has plenty of colorful shops for gifts and souvenirs, fine art galleries, historical treasures like the Knoll and Birch Cabin, and a beautiful mountain garden named after Mrs. Walsh, which showcases the local flowers and plants meticulously. Either way, you could spend ample quality time in the town itself, without visiting the park.
The picturesque town of Estes Park
Nevertheless, the interiors of the park were sending strong electromagnetic waves to our adventurous minds, and we gladly obliged. Needless to say, we were awestruck, not only by the landscape, but also by the changing colors of the season. The added bonus was countless encounters with the abundant wildlife.

The exploration started at Fall River Visitor Center (8240 ft), which serves as the gateway to the Fall River Area. Towards the Endovalley Road, Alluvial Fan (8610 ft) is a unique attraction for people of all ages and should not be missed. The Roaring River passes through a small waterfall and cascading stream down this area. The top of the waterfall is an easy climb and is a great place for shooting (with camera, off course). The small hiking was just a warm up for the upcoming activities.

Old Fall River Road is a 9 mile long one way dirt road which leads to Alpine Visitor Center at Fall River Pass. Major portions of the road are narrow and interposed with tight switchbacks. It is a challenge for all motorists to go uphill on that super-winding road and enjoy the view at the same time. Just 2 miles up the road, we were blessed by the Chasm Falls, which is one of the many natural wonders inside the park. In one of the switchbacks, I was so mesmerized by the view of Mount Chapin (12454 ft) that I had almost managed to get the car into the Chapin Creek. Thanks to our reflexes for noticing that at the last moment. Near the end of this road, it traverses the headwall of Fall River Cirque before joining Trail Ridge Road next to Alpine Visitor Center (11796 ft).
Chasm Falls at Old Fall River Road
From Alpine Visitor Center one can experience sweeping views of the mountain range, combined with diverse wildlife grazing peacefully on the meadows. The visitor center is located amidst Trail Ridge Road, which is probably the highest continuous paved highway of the nation. Spanning 50 miles between Estes Park on the east and Grand Lake on the southwest, 11 miles of this highway travels above treeline (>11000 ft). Unfortunately, the southwest-bound route was closed due to construction work. That deprived us the visit to Grand Lake and the whole southwestern part of the park, which we regret till date.
Trail Ridge Road from its highest point
Anyway, we had no choice but to detour through the eastbound route. From Fall River Pass to Deer Ridge Junction (8930 ft), this 19 mile stretch winds viciously across the alpine tundra and offers stunning landscapes and magnificent wildflower displays. The highest point of this motorable road (12183 ft) is a couple of miles away from Fall River Pass. The other important pullouts include Gore Range Overlook (12010 ft), Lava Cliffs (12000 ft), Rock Cut (12050 ft) and Forest Canyon Overlook (11716 ft). Near the latter one, we could capture the romantic moods of a number of mule deers, with Sundance Mountain (12466 ft) at the background. Some of them came pretty close to the road and were observing the visitors innocently. In accordance with our previous experience at Yellowstone, those happy-go-lucky guys are more camera-friendly than ever.
An Odocoileus hemionus couple at Forest Canyon
The day ended on a high note with group wildlife watching at multiple sections of West Horseshoe Park and Sheep Lakes (8520 ft).

Day 2
We planned to spend the next day on the southeastern region of the park. So we started from Beaver Meadows Visitor Center (7840 ft) and traveled through Bear Lake Road, which exhibits great scenery throughout its 9 mile length.
Big Thompson River meandering through Moraine Park
On the previous day, we had a glimpse of the wildlife at Moraine Park. This morning that expansive valley was infested with large number of bull elks bugling along with their herd. Oblivious of the human intruders, they seem to enjoy their polygamous lifestyle to the fullest extent. The Moraine Park Visitor Center (8140 ft) houses an excellent museum. The wildlife exhibits and interactive geological displays are quite informative.
A herd of Cervus canadensis at Moraine Park
Around 6 miles on the Bear Lake Road, the tranquil Sprague Lake (8690 ft) emerges out from nowhere. The wheelchair accessible 0.5 mile roundtrip trail adjoining the lake is an easy stroll for all ages. This place is ideal for picnicking, bird watching, fishing, or just relaxing. With a little luck, one can also be able to see elks nearby.

The last portion of Bear Lake Road dramatically winds through striking golden colors of the Aspen leaves, signifying better times ahead. The Bear Lake Perimeter Trail (9475 ft), as the name suggests, spans 0.5 mile surrounding the Bear Lake. True to our expectations, brilliant colors of fall foliage were portrayed on the edge of the lake. We were surprised to find some enthusiastic smaller mammals and birds, who spontaneously posed with us for snaps.
Representative Autumn colors at Bear Lake
After walking around this easy trail, we went up further to explore the series of immaculate lakes. The Emerald Lake Trail starts with Nymph Lake (0.5 mile from trailhead), passes through Dream Lake (1.1 miles) and ends at Emerald Lake (1.8 miles). The trail was fairly steep and gains 605 ft at Emerald Lake from the trailhead. Due to time constraints, we resisted the temptation to hike the Flattop Mountain Trail (9 miles roundtrip), which leads to Flattop Mountain (12324 ft) and Hallett Peak (12713 ft).
The serene Nymph Lake
The next destination was Alberta Falls, a gorgeous waterfall towards Glacier Gorge. This 1.6 miles roundtrip trail starts at Glacier Gorge Trailhead (9240 ft), and it starts out smoothly. After a short time, it gets much steeper and we found ourselves in an open area with panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. This being the final hours of daytime, our energy level had dropped exponentially. Still we managed to complete the trail; our impending Grand Canyon trip served as the inspiration. The Glacier Creek guided us through the rest of trail until the sudden appearance of Alberta Falls upfront. Though the downhill return was relatively easy, our aging knees and hurting feet started to revolt.
Alberta Falls, ornamented by Fall Foliage
The return drive to Estes Park was pretty lively. An elk couple blocked both ways of the road, probably didn’t want us to leave to park. It’s always difficult to say goodbye to them. Convincing them about our future return was also a tough job. After we managed to arrive at Estes Park, we went on to explore the downtown on foot. With the Fall River at its side, the mile-long Riverwalk is a peaceful pathway for pedestrians. As I had said earlier, the town is endowed with a plethora of activities, which did not cease to surprise us.

Day 3
To optimally utilize the residual half day before our return flight, we started early in the morning roaming around Lake Estes. The 3.8 mile trail around the lake was impossible to cover completely in this short time, so we had to be content with half a mile or so. Similar thing happened with the two trails on Peak-to-Peak Scenic Byway, namely the Lily Mountain Trail and the Twin Sisters Trail. These trails lead to, as the names suggest, Lily Mountain (9786 ft) and Twin Sisters Peaks (11428 ft), respectively. Finally, we had to bid adieu to the mountains from the Longs Peak Trailhead, and continued our journey through the same scenic highway.
The tranquil Lily Lake
After exploring most of the accessible areas of the park, we realized that there are still so many things left out. A scenic drive in car with no hiking takes you from sprawling meadows to pristine lakes, from vibrant wildflowers to thick snow above treeline, not to mention the juxtaposed wildlife. But to really identify the hidden treasures of the Rockies, one should heartily spend substantial time and energy on the trails.
Bursting fall colors at "Peak to Peak Scenic Byway"