Sunday, December 6, 2009

The Science and Splendor of Fall Foliage

Every autumn, New England undergoes one of nature’s most breathtaking transformations. Hillsides ignite in fiery reds, sunlit golds, and deep ambers; valleys glow with a warm, nostalgic light; and even quiet village streets seem to hum with color. Explorers travel from across the world to witness this fleeting masterpiece, but beneath this seasonal spectacle lies a fascinating story of science, light, and life.

Why Leaves Change Color: The Chemistry of Autumn

Everyone knows that the leaves change their colors during autumn, but do you know why?

As summer wanes and days grow shorter, trees prepare for rest. The changing light tells them that winter’s chill is near, and they begin to shut down their food-making factories. They stop producing chlorophyll, the green pigment responsible for capturing sunlight and turning it into energy. With chlorophyll fading, the hidden palette beneath begins to emerge.

Carotenoids – the pigments responsible for yellow and orange hues – have been in the leaves all along. They give birch, aspen, and beech trees their warm, golden tones, just as they color corn, carrots, and sunflowers. When the dominant green fades, these quiet pigments step into the light.

Then come the anthocyanins, nature’s late-season artists. Unlike carotenoids, these red and purple pigments are not always present; they are produced only in autumn. As nights grow cooler and sugars become trapped within the leaves, anthocyanins form and paint the forests in vivid crimsons, scarlets, and purples. Beyond their beauty, they serve a vital purpose; protecting the leaves from excess sunlight while the tree reclaims its nutrients before winter’s dormancy.

When Science Meets Art: The Role of Weather

The brilliance of fall’s colors is shaped by weather, nature’s subtle brushstrokes. The most spectacular displays occur when sunny, dry days are followed by cool, crisp nights. Sunlight fuels sugar production in the leaves, while the cool nights slow down the transport of those sugars, intensifying red and purple pigments. Too much rain can dull the hues, while early frost can end the show prematurely.

Kancamagus Hwy

Mt Auburn Cemetery

It is a delicate balance, one that makes every New England autumn unique, a living experiment in light, chemistry, and time.

A Journey Through New England’s Autumn Canvas

To truly experience the season, one must wander.

In Vermont, sugar maples blaze crimson against clear blue skies, their reflections rippling in the still waters of Green Mountain lakes. New Hampshire’s White Mountains offer sweeping vistas of gold and orange, with winding roads like Kancamagus Highway turning into corridors of color. Along the Maine coast, fiery foliage meets the deep blue Atlantic; a rare contrast of elements that stirs both awe and peace. In Massachusetts, the historic Mount Auburn Cemetery glowed like a living painting, while Connecticut’s and Rhode Island’s country lanes unfold in soft amber light, dotted with farmstands, stone walls, and weathered barns.

 

Autumn Splendor in Acadia National Park

Our road trip to Acadia National Park began early in the morning from Boston. The drive through coastal Maine was long yet rewarding. As we moved northward, the landscape slowly transformed; cityscapes faded into rolling countryside lined with maple and birch trees glowing in brilliant shades of red, orange, and gold. By the time we crossed Ellsworth and approached Mount Desert Island, the forests were blazing with fall color.

Blazing fall colors at Mount Desert Island

We reached Bar Harbor by late morning. The small seaside town was lively, surrounded by harbors dotted with sailboats and framed by the fiery hues of autumn foliage. After a brief stop to gather park maps, we drove toward our campsite at Blackwoods Campground. The site was nestled among dense spruce and fir trees.

After settling down at the campsite, we started with the Park Loop Road, Acadia’s scenic driving route that winds through the heart of the park. The midday sun made the colors even more vivid; sugar maples glowed in scarlet tones while oaks added shades of bronze and russet. Our first stop was at Schooner Head, where the rugged cliffs met the Atlantic. The waves crashed rhythmically against the granite, sending white spray into the air. From there, we continued toward Thunder Hole, where each incoming wave surged into a narrow inlet, producing a deep rumbling echo.

Thunder Hole

Further along the coast, Otter Cove offered wide ocean views framed by forests painted in orange and gold. Nearby, we walked a short trail leading to the Wild Gardens of Acadia; a thoughtfully arranged display of native plants and shrubs. We then stopped at Sand Beach, one of the few sandy stretches along this rocky coastline. The contrast between the golden sand, blue water, and the surrounding cliffs covered in red and yellow foliage was striking. A short hike up Great Head offered panoramic views of the beach and the open ocean.

Otter Cove

Next, we made our way inland toward Jordan Pond. The still waters perfectly mirrored the surrounding hills, which were ablaze with autumn color. The twin peaks of the Bubbles reflected clearly in the pond’s surface, creating one of the most iconic views in Acadia. From there, we continued to Eagle Lake, where a walking trail along the shore gave close-up views of the mixed hardwood forest glowing under the bright afternoon sun. The vibrance of the autumn trees reflected in the calm water, creating a perfect blend of color and tranquility.

Jordan Pond

Eagle Lake

As the day moved on, we began our ascent to Cadillac Mountain. The drive to the summit was lined with maple and aspen trees glowing like torches on both sides of the winding road. Upon reaching the top, the view was breathtaking; a complete 360° panorama of Mount Desert Island, Frenchman Bay, and the surrounding islands. The entire landscape below was covered in a patchwork of reds, yellows, and greens, stretching all the way to the horizon. We stayed until sunset, when the golden light made the fall colors appear even deeper and richer.

View from Cadillac Mountain

Frenchman Bay

The following morning, we explored the western side of the island. At Bass Harbor, we visited the iconic Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse, perched on a rocky cliff. We continued to Seawall, a quiet stretch of coastline where the stone barrier met the sea, and the forest behind it glowed in warm autumn hues. On our way back, we made a brief stop at the Abbe Museum in Bar Harbor, which showcased the rich cultural history of the Wabanaki people, the original inhabitants of the region. It provided a meaningful context to the land we had just explored.

By afternoon, we began our drive back to Boston. The return journey felt shorter, yet the vivid images of Acadia in fall remained fresh in our minds. It had been a journey through one of the most beautiful autumn landscapes in New England.

 

The Ephemeral Beauty of Change

The glory of autumn is fleeting, a few short weeks before the winds turn cold and the trees stand bare once more. Yet perhaps it is this impermanence that makes it so moving. The leaves remind us that change can be beautiful, that endings too can blaze with color before they fade to quiet rest.

In New England, autumn is not just a season; it is a moment suspended between abundance and stillness, between life and renewal. It is nature’s grand finale, painted in the language of light and chemistry, whispered through rustling leaves, and written across the landscape in gold and flame.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Rhode Island – Small State, Expansive Memories

Rhode Island may have been the smallest state in the United States, but it consistently delivered some of the most memorable journeys we experienced in New England. Its greatest advantage for us was proximity. Just about an hour’s drive from Boston, Rhode Island became a natural escape. Close enough for spontaneous day trips, yet rich enough to reward repeated visits. Over a span of nearly two years, we returned again and again, slowly uncovering the layered charm of its towns, coastlines, history, and landscapes.

Each visit felt familiar, yet different. Seasons changed, light shifted, festivals came and went, but Rhode Island remained quietly captivating.

 

Bristol: History in Bloom

Bristol left a lasting impression on us with its unhurried pace and deep-rooted sense of history. The town carried a distinctly old-world New England character, where colonial-era architecture blended effortlessly with coastal serenity.

Blithewold Mansion stood as one of the most enchanting estates we visited in Rhode Island. Overlooking Narragansett Bay, the mansion itself reflected early 20th-century elegance, but it was the surrounding gardens and arboretum that truly drew us in. Walking through winding paths lined with towering trees, manicured lawns, and seasonal blooms felt like stepping into a carefully preserved world. Each section of the garden revealed a different mood; formal, wild, reflective, depending on the season.

One of our spring visits coincided with the Daffodil Festival, when thousands of daffodils transformed the Blithewold grounds into a sea of yellow. The festival atmosphere was celebratory yet calm, rooted in tradition rather than spectacle. We also spent time in the greenhouse, where carefully curated plants hinted at the immense behind-the-scenes effort that sustained the estate’s beauty year-round.

Bristol, for us, became synonymous with spring and renewal.

 

Jamestown: Where Land Met the Open Sea

Jamestown offered a striking contrast; less ornate, more elemental. Situated on Conanicut Island, it felt closer to the raw forces of nature.

Beavertail State Park quickly became one of our favorite coastal spots in all of New England. The rocky shoreline, dramatic cliffs, and uninterrupted ocean views made every visit feel cinematic. Standing there, watching waves crash against jagged rocks, we felt both grounded and humbled.

The Beavertail Lighthouse stood proudly at the edge of the park, marking one of the oldest lighthouse sites in the country. We explored the lighthouse museum, which chronicled centuries of maritime history, navigation, and shipwrecks. The exhibits were modest but deeply informative, giving context to the treacherous waters surrounding the island.

The small aquarium near the lighthouse added another layer to the experience, especially in understanding the local marine ecosystem. It reinforced how closely Jamestown’s identity was tied to the ocean.

Jamestown felt windswept, rugged, and honest; a place shaped more by geography than by grandeur.

 

Newport: Grandeur by the Sea

Newport was where Rhode Island revealed its most opulent side. Every visit felt like stepping into a living museum, where history, architecture, and coastal scenery coexisted effortlessly.

Brenton Point State Park was one of those places we returned to repeatedly. Sitting at the edge of land where Narragansett Bay met the Atlantic Ocean, the park offered sweeping views and open skies. The wind was almost always present, carrying the sound of waves and distant sails.

Fort Adams State Park introduced us to Newport’s military past. Walking through Fort Adams itself, with its massive stone walls and underground passages, gave us insight into 19th-century coastal defense strategies. The scale of the fort was impressive, and its location made it clear why Newport was once considered strategically vital.

The Museum of Yachting reflected Newport’s long-standing connection to sailing and maritime culture, offering a historical narrative rather than mere celebration. Nearby, the Eisenhower House provided a more personal glimpse into mid-20th-century American history, revealing how even presidents sought respite along these shores.

The International Tennis Hall of Fame added a completely different dimension to Newport. The historic grass courts, museum exhibits, and preserved architecture showcased Newport’s role in shaping international sports history. Even for casual observers, the site conveyed prestige and legacy.

Bellevue Avenue was perhaps the most iconic stretch in Newport. Walking or driving along it felt like passing through a corridor of wealth and ambition from the Gilded Age. The mansions, each grander than the last, stood as monuments to a bygone era. Touring these estates revealed not just luxury, but also the social history, architectural experimentation, and cultural aspirations of the time.

Newport, in many ways, embodied Rhode Island’s ability to balance excess with elegance.

 

Providence: The Capital with Character

Providence surprised us. While often overshadowed by coastal towns, the capital city offered a quieter, more introspective experience.

The Rhode Island State Capitol dominated the skyline with its white marble dome. We visited the building to better understand the state’s political and civic history. Its classical architecture, expansive interiors, and hilltop location gave it an air of dignity and permanence. From the grounds, the city unfolded below, offering a sense of Providence’s scale and rhythm.

Providence felt thoughtful and grounded, less performative than Newport, yet deeply rooted in history and identity.

 

Why Rhode Island Kept Calling Us Back

What made Rhode Island truly special for us was not just its landmarks, but its accessibility. Being so close to Boston made it effortless to revisit, explore deeper, and experience the same places in different seasons. Over two years, Rhode Island evolved from a weekend destination into a familiar companion.

Each town had its own voice: Bristol’s gentleness, Jamestown’s ruggedness, Newport’s grandeur, Providence’s quiet confidence. Together, they formed a mosaic that proved size was irrelevant when it came to depth and character.

Rhode Island never demanded attention loudly. Instead, it invited us back repeatedly, until it felt like a part of our New England story.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

From TX heat to MA snow: The geography of a new beginning

Prologue: Between Career Moves and State Lines – A 2,000 Miles Transition

Most people in the United States move within the country at least once for professional growth. In the early 1990s, about 3% of Americans packed up their lives every year and crossed state lines. Those numbers have gone down, but one thing hasn’t changed: Americans still love their cars more than their movers. When it’s time to relocate, the instinctive answer remains “drive”.

Sometimes this means heroic coast-to-coast journeys of nearly 3,000 miles. Ours was slightly less heroic but no less ambitious: a 2,000-odd-mile (circa 3,200 km) interstate migration from College Station, Texas, to Cambridge, Massachusetts. Not quite East to West, but far enough to question every life choice at least once per day.

We had lived for a couple of years in College Station, a small college town surrounded by… well, more College Station! Life revolved around campus calendars, football seasons, and roads so straight they looked like someone forgot to add curves. When a better professional opportunity beckoned from the best university in the world, we decided to celebrate this major life transition with a long road trip.

The only problem was our car, which had recently hinted politely that it was no longer in its prime. A month earlier, we had taken it to Big Bend National Park for what we optimistically called a “test run”. The mountains were stunning; the car, less so. Axles complained, tires protested, and subtle mechanical sighs suggested retirement plans.

We briefly flirted with the idea of buying a new SUV. Reality (read finance) intervened. Instead, we replaced the axles and tires and told ourselves that this was preventive maintenance, not denial.

For Indian readers, the distance from College Station to Boston is roughly equivalent to driving from Kolkata to Delhi via Mumbai. You may ask what’s so great about it (one smartass did). Technically, nothing. Practically, everything. Over these miles, climates change, accents mutate, landscapes evolve, and cultures quietly announce themselves. Add Christmas season into the mix, and suddenly you’re migrating from mild southern winters to snowstorms that feel personal.

And so, with a fully packed car and partially packed courage, we began.

 

Day 1: College Station, TX to Shreveport / Bossier City, LA

We left College Station early in the morning, armed with GPS directions, and the false confidence that comes from freshly changed tires. Soon we merged onto SH 79, which carried us faithfully across Texas. Texas, as always, refused to end. Hours passed. Billboards repeated. We crossed cities that looked suspiciously similar.

Eventually, after peeling off SH 79 and transitioning onto I‑20, we crossed into Louisiana. By evening, we reached Shreveport–Bossier City, twin towns divided by the Red River and united by casinos that glow like they’re permanently stuck in Saturday night mode.

We checked into a motel that was clean, functional, and blessedly close to food. After unloading only what we absolutely needed (which was still too much), we collapsed. Day one had done its job: reminding us that 2,000 miles is not a theoretical concept.

 

Day 2: Bossier City, LA to Atlanta, GA

Day two was driving, driving, and more driving, mostly along I‑20, which became our constant companion for the day. The initial part involved driving through a barrage of semi-trucks amid a blinding rain. After some "Jason Bourne" moments, Louisiana slowly gave way to Mississippi, then Mississippi to Alabama, and finally Alabama to Georgia. Pine trees lined the highways like polite spectators. Gas stations blurred together. Black coffee became a survival tool.

By evening, still obediently following I‑20, the Atlanta skyline appeared; modern, busy, and reassuringly urban. We stayed with an old friend, which instantly upgraded the day from “long and exhausting” to “worth it.” Home-cooked Bengali food, warm conversations, and the luxury of not checking out by 11 a.m. made Atlanta one of the emotional highlights of the trip.

 

Day 3: Atlanta, GA to Charlotte, NC

Compared to the previous marathon, this leg felt merciful. After negotiating morning traffic of Atlanta, we joined I‑85 North, a highway that feels purpose-built for professional migrations like ours. The landscape started changing; gentler hills, cooler air, and roads that seemed to hint at future mountains.

Charlotte welcomed us with calm efficiency and another old friend. This stop reinforced an important road-trip truth: friendships are the best rest stops. Over indoor games and dinner, we swapped stories (some of them politically incorrect), laughed about how life had taken unexpected turns, and mentally prepared for the northern stretch ahead.

 

Day 4: Charlotte, NC to Washington, DC

Still on I‑85, and later merging into I‑95, this was the day the trip stopped feeling like a Southern drive and started feeling like a Northeastern campaign. After Richmond, VA, traffic increased. Lanes multiplied. Patience was tested.

As we entered Washington, DC via the ever-busy I‑95 corridor, the city introduced itself through short loop exit ramps from the highway. Adapted to long, straight ramps of Texas highways, we averted a major accident by kickass manoeuvring (mostly seen in Hollywood action flicks).

DC welcomed us with wide avenues, disciplined architecture, and an air that said, “Important things happen here.” We checked into a motel and resisted the urge to immediate sightseeing. DC deserved a rested version of us.

 

Day 5: Washington, DC – Monuments, Museums, and Mild Awe

Washington, DC is best navigated by its excellent Metro system, which we used enthusiastically, feeling briefly like seasoned urban commuters from Munich. Wrapped in winter jackets, we emerged near the National Mall; an open stretch of land that feels like a PowerPoint presentation of American history in real life.

We passed by the White House; smaller than expected, heavily guarded, and strangely underwhelming considering how often it appears on television. Still, it was satisfying to casually walk past a place that has caused so much global drama.

The Capitol anchored one end of the Mall, the Washington Monument pierced the winter sky like an oversized punctuation mark, and somewhere between the two stood Smithsonian Museums capable of consuming entire days (and brain cells).

Before plunging headfirst into rockets and dinosaurs, we first encountered the Smithsonian Castle, a kind of gentle intellectual warm-up. With its red sandstone walls and turreted silhouette, it looked as if a European medieval structure had accidentally taken a wrong turn and landed on the National Mall. Built in the mid-19th century, it serves as the Smithsonian Institution’s original headquarters, helping visitors make sense of the overwhelming abundance of knowledge scattered across the Mall. It was the perfect prelude; a dignified pause before we stepped out and walked straight into the science of aviation.

National Air and Space Museum: Humanity’s Refusal to Stay Grounded

We decided to tackle the National Air and Space Museum with the optimism of people who had clearly underestimated its scale. Spread across multiple floors, the museum is a chronological and thematic account of humanity’s stubborn desire to defy gravity.

The journey begins with Early Flight, How Things Fly, and the Wright Brothers: Invention of the Aerial Age, where bicycle mechanics quietly trigger a global transformation. Fragile gliders, hand-built engines, and meticulous sketches show how powered flight emerged from trial, error, and alarming bravery.

From there, aviation gains confidence and style in the Barron Hilton Pioneers of Flight and Golden Age of Flight galleries, where aircraft evolve from skeletal frames to sleek machines. America by Air traces the rise of commercial aviation, while Jet Aviation announces the era of speed, altitude, and sonic ambition. Sea-Air Operations gently reminds us that humans dislike boundaries; land, sea, or otherwise.

The mood darkens briefly in The Great War in the Air and WWII Aviation, sobering exhibits that show how rapidly innovation accelerates under conflict. The transition to modern warfare is completed by Unmanned Aerial Vehicles, where courage is replaced by code and control rooms.

Space takes over in dramatic fashion. The Milestones of Flight entrance hall anchors the museum with icons like Apollo 11 Command Module, while Looking at Earth shows how satellites transformed our understanding of our own planet. Explore the Universe and Exploring the Planets expand the scale further, leading into the geopolitical drama of the Space Race.

The emotional peak arrives with Apollo to the Moon, showcased by Apollo Lunar Module LM-2 and original lunar spacesuits. Moving Beyond Earth offers a glimpse of space stations and futures still being assembled, one module at a time.

By the time we exited, we were inspired, overwhelmed, and acutely aware that gravity is negotiable, with sufficient funding.

National Museum of Natural History: A Crash Course in Humility

Crossing over into the National Museum of Natural History felt like switching from ambition to humility. Where Air & Space Museum celebrates escape, Natural History Museum quietly reminds you that Earth has been doing just fine without us for billions of years.

The experience opens in the Rotunda, dominated by an African elephant that silently establishes the hierarchy. Nearby, African Voices connects culture, environment, and history, while the vast Ocean Hall, complete with a suspended blue whale, narrates the uneasy story of marine life and human intervention. The Mammals Hall offers a calmer inventory of fur, teeth, and evolutionary success.

Ascending through time, Early Life, Fossil Plants, and Fossil Mammals lay out evolution with methodical patience. Then come the crowd favorites, Dinosaurs, towering skeletons that prove size offers no long-term guarantees. Ancient Seas and the Ice Age galleries continue the lesson, populated by creatures that once ruled and then quietly vanished.

Human curiosity turns inward in Human Origins, where skulls, tools, and timelines trace our improbable journey. Bones and Written in Bone use forensic anthropology to reconstruct lives long gone, while Egyptian Mummies demonstrate humanity’s enduring discomfort with mortality.

Not everything here is ancient or extinct. Live Butterflies and Plants and the Insect Zoo pulse with movement, reminding us that evolution is still very much in progress. The geological story unfolds in Earth, Moon and Meteorites and Gems and Minerals, where rocks that traveled across space sit beside minerals that simply decided to be spectacular. The Korea Gallery closes the loop, grounding deep time in everyday human history.

We left the Natural History Museum mentally saturated, physically tired, and profoundly humbled. In the same stretch of the Mall, we also briefly dipped into the Freer Gallery of Art, where Asian art, serene galleries, and subdued lighting offered a meditative contrast to dinosaurs and meteorites. The nearby Arts and Industries Building felt like a time capsule from an earlier era of exhibitions; grand in intent, slightly chaotic in execution, and charmingly old-school. The Hirshhorn Museum, with its unmistakable doughnut-shaped modernist architecture, confronted us with contemporary art that ranged from thought-provoking to politely confusing, neatly completing our cultural whiplash for the day.


Day 6: Washington, DC to East Brunswick, NJ

We started early morning to avoid DC traffic, rejoined I‑95 North, the spine of the East Coast, and headed through Maryland and Delaware before entering New Jersey. East Brunswick welcomed us with a family reunion. Laughter, food, and nostalgia filled the house. But the day wasn’t done yet.

That evening, we left East Brunswick and merged onto the New Jersey Turnpike (I-95), heading north toward Jersey City. Skirting along the Turnpike and local parkways, we exited toward Liberty State Park, where the Manhattan skyline rose quietly across the Hudson like a postcard come to life; calm, composed, and deceptively peaceful, as if unaware of the madness waiting just across the river. Soon after, we crossed the Hudson River into New York City, and the mood shifted instantly.

Christmas in NYC is controlled chaos. Rockefeller Center glowed under layers of lights, the giant Christmas tree towering over crowds armed with cameras, scarves, and awe. The city felt electric, festive, and completely unapologetic about it. Late at night, we returned to East Brunswick, exhausted and happy.


Day 7: East Brunswick, NJ to Belmont, MA

The final stretch followed I‑95 once again, as if the highway itself was determined to see us through to the end. We were close enough to taste the destination, yet far enough to stay cautious. As passing the NYC, the states of New York and Connecticut, we entered Massachusetts; winter finally made its grand entrance.

New England, Finally

Snow fell generously, as if to announce, “Welcome to New England.” Roads narrowed, visibility dropped, and our Texas-trained instincts quietly panicked.

We reached Belmont, where old friends opened their home to us. They hosted us generously while we searched for an apartment in Cambridge. Outside, snow continued to fall. Inside, warmth and familiarity eased the transition.

 

Epilogue: The Road Teaches You Things GPS Never Will

We arrived in Massachusetts the way most long journeys end; not with fireworks, but with exhaustion, snow, and quiet relief. New England welcomed us in its own understated manner: grey skies, unfamiliar cold, and an abnormal amount of snowfall that seemed to suggest we had crossed not just state lines, but climate zones and emotional thresholds. Texas had prepared us for distances; New England immediately reminded us about seasons.

Somewhere between Belmont and Cambridge, the road trip officially ended and real life resumed. The highways that had carried us, mile after mile of optimism, caffeine, and classic rock, gave way to narrower roads, older buildings, and a sense of compressed history. Everything felt denser here: the air, the conversations, the academic ambition. Even silence seemed more intentional.

Professionally, this move was the reason for everything; the packing, the axles, the museums, the snow anxiety. But standing there, unloading boxes into a friend’s house, it became clear that the journey had done something else as well. It had gently recalibrated us. From small-town Texas to the intellectual intensity of Boston, the transition was not just geographical, it was mental.

The road trip gave us time to say goodbye slowly and hello thoughtfully. To watch landscapes change, accents shift, and temperatures drop. To move, quite literally, from wide-open spaces to places where ideas have been colliding for centuries.

As the snow kept falling and Cambridge waited patiently ahead, one thought stood out clearly: we hadn’t just reached a destination, we had arrived at a new chapter. And like all good chapters, it began not with certainty, but with curiosity.

Sunday, March 1, 2009

The Big Bend of Rio Grande

Disclaimer:
Speeding is injurious to health, sometimes life-threatening
----------

We lived in a small college town in Texas for a couple of years, in the middle of nowhere. For any sort of decent entertainment, we had to travel to the nearby big cities, namely Houston (90 miles), Austin (100 miles), Dallas (160 miles), San Antonio (170 miles) or New Orleans (450 miles). The nearest national park is even farther, some 600 odd miles, at the border of Mexico and deep in the heart of the Chihuahua desert, the Big Bend National Park. This is one of the two national parks in TX; the other being Guadalupe Mountains National Park.

BBNP administers 244 miles of the international boundary between US and Mexico. The park was named after the large bend of the Rio Grande River, which also serves as the border. The river on its voyage through this portion of the Chihuahuan Desert has cut deep canyons with nearly vertical walls, namely Santa Elena, Mariscal, and Boquillas.

When we started living in Texas, we had little idea about BBNP, as it is not so popular among the desis. But being offbeat travelers, we were gradually drawn towards it and waited for the right time to visit there. However, with time and situation, we were so much packed with schedules that the trip was always far on timeline horizon. Then the time came for us to move to New England for better career opportunities. That's when we decided to give it one last shot on the Thanksgiving weekend of 2008. Needless to say, we planned a camping trip there as well.

All excited and charged up we started for the trip. The drive seemed like a never ending story. We started on a Wednesday evening. The plan was to drive overnight (~10 hrs) with a minimum of 3 breaks. The important cities on the road are Austin, Fredericksburg and Fort Stockton. We hit I-10 after four and half hours of driving (through TX-21, TX-71, US-290W), and the speed limit suddenly increased to 80 mph. We continued to drive at ± 10 mph of that speed limit (mostly plus) for the next 240 miles till Fort Stockton. From there we switched to US-385S, where the speed limit is 75 mph. This highway being known to be a no-cop road, we continued our speeding spree till the town of Marathon (60 miles from FS), and then continued at normal speed till the entrance of BBNP (90 miles from FS).

The last stretch of the drive was long and irksome. The absolute pitched darkness with occasional screams of wild animals was kind of eerie. After about an hour of driving, when all of us were almost half asleep (including the driver), one sudden hit on the brake shook us like anything. Standing in the middle of the road was a deer only an inch away from our car. The poor guy was almost scared to death. Wide awake after the screeching sound, we realized that just a second ago we were saved from killing an innocent animal. Unfortunately, the deer chose to cross the road the very moment when we were passing. Overwhelmed by the headlights, he/she stopped there at the last moment. After the equilibration of our adrenaline level, we resumed our journey towards the visitor center.

Day 1

The notice board at Persimmon Gap Visitor Center said that most of the campgrounds were occupied. This being the tourist season, it was impossible to find a suitable one without prior reservation. Unfortunately, we were unaware of it at that time. All the sites of Panther Junction were full. It was almost end of the night and therefore, we did not dare go to the Chisos Basin to try our luck, since the road was too winding. The next best and probably only option was Rio Grande Village. From Panther Junction, the 20 mile road towards RGV descends nearly 2000 ft, and simultaneously passes through spectacular landscape of the picturesque Sierra del Carmen escarpment.

The real pain started while looking for vacant campgrounds at RGV. Some of the regular camping sites were washed out by a flash flood the previous day. After wandering around for a while, some of the park volunteers helped us get a temporary place a little aside of the regular campground, and promised us a permanent place the next morning.

After gulping some quick breakfast, we started exploring the neighborhood. In spite of not getting shut eyes for the last 12 hrs, our enthusiasm was in full brim and the whole night drive could not dampen our excitements. At the eastern end of the park, this is the center of visitor activity during the winter months. We heard a lot about the singing Mexican, so we made it a point to drive up to Boquillas Canyon Trail. Alongside the way, the Boquillas Canyon Overlook presents a dramatic panoramic view of the canyon and the river.

The Boquillas Canyon Trail is 1.4 miles round trip, and begins at the end of the Boquillas Canyon Spur Road. From the parking lot it ascends to the top of a cliff overlooking the river. Mortar holes from ancient inhabitants are some of the interesting features in this area. The native inhabitants of the place used the rocks as mortar for grinding stuff. The impressions or holes made out of it still remain to this day. The singing Mexican was doing his job (i.e. singing) on a boat across the river. Not melodious enough, but we still were attracted by the warm heartedness of the guy. There were lots of pretty handmade goods sold by local Mexican dealers at lucrative prices, but we were scared to buy any of the stuff since it is illegal.

Boquillas Canyon

Mortar holes at Boquillas Canyon Trail

Hot Springs Road is a two mile winding rugged gravel road connecting the Hot Springs Historic District. It was a challenge driving on this road with a 12 year old car. After exploring the ruins of the first resort of BBNP, we went to soak in the Hot Springs, the temperature of which is about 105 °F. The Hot Springs Canyon Trail is 6 miles round trip, and connects Daniel's Ranch and Hot Springs. This trail offers astonishing views of the river, and Chisos and Sierra del Carmen Mountains. Daniels' Ranch, located near the trailhead, is an excellent birding spot.

Hot Springs Historic District

Hot Springs Canyon Trail

The next destination was Chihuahuan Desert Nature Trail, beginning at Dugout Wells, which presents both natural and cultural history of this region. On this easy desert trail the remnants of human settlement and a shady oasis can still be seen. The spirit of the desert can be sensed all along this trail.


Chisos Mountains from Dugout Wells

Along the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Trail

The daylong experiences with gravel road, desert and scorching sun (not to mention sleepless nights) made us pretty exhausted. We ended our day at the scenic RGV Nature Trail near the campground, which offers serene sunset views. Shortly after that, we felt a bit claustrophobic after experiencing the darkness around us. This is probably one of the darkest regions of the world; the bright sky lit by distant stars appeared like a giant blanket falling over us.

Day 2

As promised, the park volunteer did provide us a better campsite at the regular campground the next morning. Dismantling and repitching of the tent took some time. So we were little late for the Chisos Basin, where we planned to spend the whole day.

The 6 mile road to Chisos Basin from Chisos Mountains Basin Junction ascends over 5000 ft above the desert floor. This scenic and winding road showcases the transition between barren desert and cooler mountain habitats. It also offers breathtaking scenes of the massive cliffs and the erosion-formed basin area.


Cliffs of the Chisos Basin

Several trails start from the Chisos Basin Trailhead, which range from easy to strenuous. The Window View Trail is the easiest one and taken by people of all ages. This wheelchair accessible, 0.3 mile round trip trail loops around a low hill with sweeping views throughout the Window. It portrays the northwestern part of the desert from an elevation of over 4000 ft above the desert floor.


The Window

We wanted to go a little beyond that, so with our right mind we chose the Emory Peak Trail, which is the most backbreaking one. Emory Peak is the highest point in the park, standing at 7825 ft. The trail is 9 miles roundtrip. First, we ascended the Pinnacles Trail to Emory Peak Trail junction (3.5 miles from Chisos Basin Trailhead). From there a 1 mile spur trail led us to the peak, which revealed exquisite landscapes along the way. The last quarter mile is very steep, and the last 25 ft requires a semi-technical scramble up an exposed rock face. We had to brush up our juvenile rock-climbing skills to deal with that part. Once at the top, the 360° panoramic views left us awestruck. Words fail us to describe the view around us, so we will take refuge behind the snapshots. Most of the northern section of the park and a substantial part of the Chisos Range to the south can be perceived from here.


Emory Peak

Summit; finally!

Casa Grande from Emory Peak Trail

We heard the sighting of a family of black bear by our fellow hikers, but luck was not what we had. The return to Chisos Basin Trailhead was detoured by about 1 mile via the Chisos Basin Loop Trail. This trail passes through shaded stands of dense vegetation and outstanding vistas from the Window with Chihuahua desert at the backdrop. We were fortunate enough to stumble upon a herd of mule deer; the first wildlife sighting on that day. The whole hike took around 5 hours. The return to the RGV Campground was uneventful barring some isolated encounters with roadrunners.


The juvenile members of the Odocoileus hemionus family

The sprinting Geococcyx californianus
Day 3

No excursion in BBNP is complete without a ride along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. This 30 mile scenic road highlights the geological grandeur of BBNP; at the same time offering several scenic overlooks and exhibits on the way. The grey or dark brown colored low-lying hills, the V-shaped back side of the Window, and the Casa Grande are the important features in the first few miles. The Blue Creek Ranch and Sotol Vista Overlook come into view between 8 and 9 miles, famous for red rock formations and first hint of the Santa Elena Canyon, respectively. Around the 15th mile, the Goat Mountain and the Mule Ears both represent underground volcanic activities millions of years ago. Igneous rock trickled into the surface through older sediment layers and formed bizarre shapes like the two eroded dikes of the Mule Ears.


The framing of Sierra del Carmen

Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive

Autumn colors of the desert

Mule Ears

The Tuff Canyon at 20th mile presents a gaping view of the Blue Creek valley from three different vista points. After crossing the layered mountain of Cerro Castolon, the Castolon Historic District suddenly appears at the 22nd mile. The historic La Harmonia Store (located in the same building as the visitor center) provided us a full range of supplies for the rest of the day.

Tuff Canyon with Cerro Castolon at the backdrop

Desert flowers

Further 8 miles drive along the road took us to Santa Elena Canyon Overlook via the Santa Elena Canyon River Access. The scenic drive ends here, and exposes a stunning panoramic view of the canyon. The Santa Elena Canyon Trail starts from the overlook, and is about 2 miles roundtrip. After passing Terlingua Creek, the trail ascends through a staircase to a viewpoint, then again descends back to the edge of the water. It further continues until the towering 1500 ft canyon walls meet the riverbed. The formation of these gigantic limestone cliffs took about 60 million years. A number of shell fossils embedded in the large boulders provides a glimpse of the formative years.

The river access of Santa Elena Canyon

Encompassed by Santa Elena Canyon

The highlight of the return trip to RGV was the dazzling sunset over Sierra del Carmen. The golden color of the setting sun on top of the mountain left our eyes and mind bedazzled (though superseded by Grand Canyon sunset much later).

Sunset at Sierra del Carmen

Day 4

The return from a national park is not so easy on the mind. But being the last day of Thanksgiving weekend, our professional life was beckoning us to return to our workplace. With a heavy heart we started our return journey, with a brief stopover at the Fossil Bone Exhibit on the road between Panther Junction and Persimmon Gap. This 26 mile stretch within the park has a number of roadside exhibits and allows a scenic exploration of the desert environment, which we missed in the first day. The speedy drive (100 mph ± 10) through the state and interstate highways was again exciting. The sighting of a double rainbow at Fredericksburg was the icing on the cake. After reaching home, the odometer reading indicated a drive of 1500 miles in 4 days.

Being literally at the end of the world (slightly exaggerated; United States is NOT the world), BBNP is quite a voyage from any metropolitan areas in Texas. But you owe it to yourself to visit there at least once in your lifetime.