Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Waltz Through Vienna

The day began before sunrise with an early morning bus ride from Munich to Vienna. As the vehicle rolled through Southern Bavaria, the scenery shifted from city outskirts to serene countryside. Crossing the Austrian border, the Alpine foothills gave way to rolling meadows and tidy villages, the landscape becoming broader and softer as we approached Vienna. After several hours on the highway, the skyline of the Austrian capital appeared; domes, spires, and imperial façades.

Stepping off the bus, we took the U-Bahn towards Karlsplatz, where the first stop of the day awaited – St. Charles Cathedral (Karlskirche). Commissioned by Emperor Charles VI in 1713, the cathedral remains one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in Europe. Its white façade, twin spiral columns modelled after Rome’s Trajan’s Column, and green copper dome dominate the square. Inside, the frescoes of the dome are nothing short of breathtaking, depicting St. Charles Borromeo ascending into heaven. An elevator and narrow staircase lead to a viewing platform directly beneath the dome, offering a close-up look at the paintings and a view over the surrounding streets.

From Karlsplatz, we boarded the U4 towards Schönbrunn Station to visit Schönbrunn Palace, the summer residence of the Habsburgs. As we exited the metro, the palace stretched before us, a monumental yellow façade surrounded by formal gardens. Inside, the self-guided tour led us through lavishly decorated rooms: the Mirror Room, where Mozart performed at age six; the Millions Room, lined with intricate rosewood panelling; and the Great Gallery, where crystal chandeliers hang from painted ceilings once reflecting imperial banquets. Outside, we walked through the garden’s fountains and statues up to the Gloriette, from which the entire palace and city skyline are visible.

The U4 brought us back to Karlsplatz, where we changed to the U3 and got off at Herrengasse to reach the Hofburg Palace, once the winter residence of the Habsburg dynasty. The sprawling complex today houses several museums, including the Imperial Apartments and the Sisi Museum, dedicated to the life of Empress Elisabeth. Her story unfolds through personal artifacts and letters, while the Silver Collection displays ornate tableware used for state banquets. The Imperial Treasury, within the same complex, holds the Crown of the Holy Roman Empire and the Austrian Imperial Crown, glittering symbols of a bygone age of emperors and archdukes.

Next, we took the tram heading south to the Belvedere Palace, another Baroque masterpiece designed for Prince Eugene of Savoy. The complex consists of the Lower and Upper Belvedere, connected by geometrically perfect gardens filled with sculptures and fountains. Inside the Upper Belvedere, the galleries display Austria’s most prized artworks, including Gustav Klimt’s “The Kiss”, dazzling in gold and colour, along with expressive works by Egon Schiele and Oskar Kokoschka. The terraces outside provide one of Vienna’s best panoramic views, the palace reflecting in its pond against the clear afternoon light.

Returning by the tram to the city center, we got off at Stephansplatz, the beating heart of Vienna, where St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Stephansdom) rises with its Gothic spire and multi-coloured tiled roof. The interior, with its carved stone pulpit and vaulted ceilings, reflects centuries of faith and craftsmanship. Climbing the South Tower’s 343 steps rewards visitors with a commanding view over the old city, while the North Tower, accessible by elevator, houses the massive Pummerin Bell. Standing atop, the view of narrow lanes, church domes, and tramlines winding through the city felt timeless.

From Stephansplatz, we caught tram number 1 for the classic Ringstraße loop, the circular boulevard encircling Vienna’s historic core. This tram ride, known as the Ring Linien, is one of the best ways to see the city’s major landmarks. The route passed by Otto Wagner’s Post Office Savings Bank, an early modernist marvel with glass and aluminium details that marked a new architectural era. Nearby stood the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK), renowned for its collections of design and decorative art. As the tram continued, we glimpsed Stadtpark, home to the golden Johann Strauss monument. Further along rose the State Opera House, Vienna’s pride and one of the world’s most prestigious opera venues. The tram rounded the Imperial Palace complex, passing between the Museum of Fine Arts and the Museum of Natural History, their identical domes facing each other across Maria-Theresien-Platz. The former holds works by Rembrandt, Vermeer, and Velázquez, while the latter exhibits vast collections of fossils, gemstones, and rare meteorites. Continuing along the boulevard, the Austrian Parliament appeared, its classical façade echoing Greek temples, followed by the Burgtheater, a symbol of Austria’s theatrical heritage. Finally, the tram stopped at Rathausplatz, dominated by the Neo-Gothic City Hall, its tall spire a defining feature of Vienna’s skyline.

As twilight settled, we took the U1 to Kaisermühlen-VIC and then a bus to the Danube Tower (Donauturm), rising above the Danube Park. The observation deck, reached by a high-speed elevator, offered panoramic views of the city under a fading sky. Lights began to sparkle along the Danube River, while the highways below traced luminous ribbons across the landscape.

Returning to the city centre by the same route, we made our way back to Rathausplatz, where the Christmas Market had come alive. Wooden stalls lined the square, filled with ornaments, lights, and festive crafts, while the Rathaus itself glowed behind them, its façade illuminated with intricate light displays. The lively crowd, the music, and the crisp winter air created a perfect close to the day.

Late at night, we headed to the International Bus Terminal at Erdberg, accessible by U3, for the return journey to Munich. Vienna, elegant and meticulously preserved, had offered a glimpse of its enduring charm; leaving impressions of Baroque domes, imperial palaces, and grand boulevards; a city where history and modern life coexist with effortless grace.