Disclaimer:
(i) Speeding is injurious to health, sometimes life-threatening
(ii) Photos subject to copyright
----------
----------
We lived in a small college town in Texas for a couple of years, in the middle of nowhere. For any sort of decent entertainment, we had to travel to the nearby big cities, namely Houston (90 miles), Austin (100 miles), Dallas (160 miles), San Antonio (170 miles) or New Orleans (450 miles). The nearest national park is even farther, some 600 odd miles, at the border of Mexico and deep in the heart of the Chihuahua desert, the Big Bend National Park. This is one of the two national parks in TX; the other being Guadalupe Mountains National Park.
BBNP administers 244 miles of the international boundary between US and Mexico. The park was named after the large bend of the Rio Grande River, which also serves as the border. The river on its voyage through this portion of the Chihuahuan Desert has cut deep canyons with nearly vertical walls, namely Santa Elena, Mariscal, and Boquillas.
When we started living in Texas, we had little idea about BBNP, as it is not so popular among the desis. But being offbeat travelers, we were gradually drawn towards it and waited for the right time to visit there. However, with time and situation, we were so much packed with schedules that the trip was always far on timeline horizon. Then the time came for us to move to New England for better career opportunities. That's when we decided to give it one last shot on the Thanksgiving weekend of 2008. Needless to say, we planned a camping trip there as well.
All excited and charged up we started for the trip. The drive seemed like a never ending story. We started on a Wednesday evening. The plan was to drive overnight (~10 hrs) with a minimum of 3 breaks. The important cities on the road are Austin, Fredericksburg and Fort Stockton. We hit I-10 after four and half hours of driving (through TX-21, TX-71, US-290W), and the speed limit suddenly increased to 80 mph. We continued to drive at ± 10 mph of that speed limit (mostly plus) for the next 240 miles till Fort Stockton. From there we switched to US-385S, where the speed limit is 75 mph. This highway being known to be a no-cop road, we continued our speeding spree till the town of Marathon (60 miles from FS), and then continued at normal speed till the entrance of BBNP (90 miles from FS).
The last stretch of the drive was long and irksome. The absolute pitched darkness with occasional screams of wild animals was kind of eerie. After about an hour of driving, when all of us were almost half asleep (including the driver), one sudden hit on the brake shook us like anything. Standing in the middle of the road was a deer only an inch away from our car. The poor guy was almost scared to death. Wide awake after the screeching sound, we realized that just a second ago we were saved from killing an innocent animal. Unfortunately, the deer chose to cross the road the very moment when we were passing. Overwhelmed by the headlights, he/she stopped there at the last moment. After the equilibration of our adrenaline level, we resumed our journey towards the visitor center.
Day 1
The notice board at Persimmon Gap Visitor Center said that most of the campgrounds were occupied. This being the tourist season, it was impossible to find a suitable one without prior reservation. Unfortunately, we were unaware of it at that time. All the sites of Panther Junction were full. It was almost end of the night and therefore, we did not dare go to the Chisos Basin to try our luck, since the road was too winding. The next best and probably only option was Rio Grande Village. From Panther Junction, the 20 mile road towards RGV descends nearly 2000 ft, and simultaneously passes through spectacular landscape of the picturesque Sierra del Carmen escarpment.
BBNP administers 244 miles of the international boundary between US and Mexico. The park was named after the large bend of the Rio Grande River, which also serves as the border. The river on its voyage through this portion of the Chihuahuan Desert has cut deep canyons with nearly vertical walls, namely Santa Elena, Mariscal, and Boquillas.
When we started living in Texas, we had little idea about BBNP, as it is not so popular among the desis. But being offbeat travelers, we were gradually drawn towards it and waited for the right time to visit there. However, with time and situation, we were so much packed with schedules that the trip was always far on timeline horizon. Then the time came for us to move to New England for better career opportunities. That's when we decided to give it one last shot on the Thanksgiving weekend of 2008. Needless to say, we planned a camping trip there as well.
All excited and charged up we started for the trip. The drive seemed like a never ending story. We started on a Wednesday evening. The plan was to drive overnight (~10 hrs) with a minimum of 3 breaks. The important cities on the road are Austin, Fredericksburg and Fort Stockton. We hit I-10 after four and half hours of driving (through TX-21, TX-71, US-290W), and the speed limit suddenly increased to 80 mph. We continued to drive at ± 10 mph of that speed limit (mostly plus) for the next 240 miles till Fort Stockton. From there we switched to US-385S, where the speed limit is 75 mph. This highway being known to be a no-cop road, we continued our speeding spree till the town of Marathon (60 miles from FS), and then continued at normal speed till the entrance of BBNP (90 miles from FS).
The last stretch of the drive was long and irksome. The absolute pitched darkness with occasional screams of wild animals was kind of eerie. After about an hour of driving, when all of us were almost half asleep (including the driver), one sudden hit on the brake shook us like anything. Standing in the middle of the road was a deer only an inch away from our car. The poor guy was almost scared to death. Wide awake after the screeching sound, we realized that just a second ago we were saved from killing an innocent animal. Unfortunately, the deer chose to cross the road the very moment when we were passing. Overwhelmed by the headlights, he/she stopped there at the last moment. After the equilibration of our adrenaline level, we resumed our journey towards the visitor center.
Day 1
The notice board at Persimmon Gap Visitor Center said that most of the campgrounds were occupied. This being the tourist season, it was impossible to find a suitable one without prior reservation. Unfortunately, we were unaware of it at that time. All the sites of Panther Junction were full. It was almost end of the night and therefore, we did not dare go to the Chisos Basin to try our luck, since the road was too winding. The next best and probably only option was Rio Grande Village. From Panther Junction, the 20 mile road towards RGV descends nearly 2000 ft, and simultaneously passes through spectacular landscape of the picturesque Sierra del Carmen escarpment.
The real pain started while looking for vacant campgrounds at RGV. Some of the regular camping sites were washed out by a flash flood the previous day. After wandering around for a while, some of the park volunteers helped us get a temporary place a little aside of the regular campground, and promised us a permanent place the next morning.
After gulping some quick breakfast, we started exploring the neighborhood. In spite of not getting shut eyes for the last 12 hrs, our enthusiasm was in full brim and the whole night drive could not dampen our excitements. At the eastern end of the park, this is the center of visitor activity during the winter months. We heard a lot about the singing Mexican, so we made it a point to drive up to Boquillas Canyon Trail. Alongside the way, the Boquillas Canyon Overlook presents a dramatic panoramic view of the canyon and the river.
The Boquillas Canyon Trail is 1.4 miles round trip, and begins at the end of the Boquillas Canyon Spur Road. From the parking lot it ascends to the top of a cliff overlooking the river. Mortar holes from ancient inhabitants are some of the interesting features in this area. The native inhabitants of the place used the rocks as mortar for grinding stuff. The impressions or holes made out of it still remain to this day. The singing Mexican was doing his job (i.e. singing) on a boat across the river. Not melodious enough, but we still were attracted by the warm heartedness of the guy. There were lots of pretty handmade goods sold by local Mexican dealers at lucrative prices, but we were scared to buy any of the stuff since it is illegal.
 |
| Boquillas Canyon |
 |
| Mortar holes at Boquillas Canyon Trail |
Hot Springs Road is a two mile winding rugged gravel road connecting the Hot Springs Historic District. It was a challenge driving on this road with a 12 year old car. After exploring the ruins of the first resort of BBNP, we went to soak in the Hot Springs, the temperature of which is about 105 °F. The Hot Springs Canyon Trail is 6 miles round trip, and connects Daniel's Ranch and Hot Springs. This trail offers astonishing views of the river, and Chisos and Sierra del Carmen Mountains. Daniels' Ranch, located near the trailhead, is an excellent birding spot.
The next destination was Chihuahuan Desert Nature Trail, beginning at Dugout Wells, which presents both natural and cultural history of this region. On this easy desert trail the remnants of human settlement and a shady oasis can still be seen. The spirit of the desert can be sensed all along this trail.
 |
| Hot Springs Historic District |
 |
| Hot Springs Canyon Trail |
The next destination was Chihuahuan Desert Nature Trail, beginning at Dugout Wells, which presents both natural and cultural history of this region. On this easy desert trail the remnants of human settlement and a shady oasis can still be seen. The spirit of the desert can be sensed all along this trail.
 |
| Chisos Mountains from Dugout Wells |
The daylong experiences with gravel road, desert and scorching sun (not to mention sleepless nights) made us pretty exhausted. We ended our day at the scenic RGV Nature Trail near the campground, which offers serene sunset views. Shortly after that, we felt a bit claustrophobic after experiencing the darkness around us. This is probably one of the darkest regions of the world; the bright sky lit by distant stars appeared like a giant blanket falling over us.
Day 2
As promised, the park volunteer did provide us a better campsite at the regular campground the next morning. Dismantling and repitching of the tent took some time. So we were little late for the Chisos Basin, where we planned to spend the whole day.
The 6 mile road to Chisos Basin from Chisos Mountains Basin Junction ascends over 5000 ft above the desert floor. This scenic and winding road showcases the transition between barren desert and cooler mountain habitats. It also offers breathtaking scenes of the massive cliffs and the erosion-formed basin area.
 |
| Along the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Trail |
The daylong experiences with gravel road, desert and scorching sun (not to mention sleepless nights) made us pretty exhausted. We ended our day at the scenic RGV Nature Trail near the campground, which offers serene sunset views. Shortly after that, we felt a bit claustrophobic after experiencing the darkness around us. This is probably one of the darkest regions of the world; the bright sky lit by distant stars appeared like a giant blanket falling over us.
Day 2
As promised, the park volunteer did provide us a better campsite at the regular campground the next morning. Dismantling and repitching of the tent took some time. So we were little late for the Chisos Basin, where we planned to spend the whole day.
The 6 mile road to Chisos Basin from Chisos Mountains Basin Junction ascends over 5000 ft above the desert floor. This scenic and winding road showcases the transition between barren desert and cooler mountain habitats. It also offers breathtaking scenes of the massive cliffs and the erosion-formed basin area.
 |
| Cliffs of the Chisos Basin |
Several trails start from the Chisos Basin Trailhead, which range from easy to strenuous. The Window View Trail is the easiest one and taken by people of all ages. This wheelchair accessible, 0.3 mile round trip trail loops around a low hill with sweeping views throughout the Window. It portrays the northwestern part of the desert from an elevation of over 4000 ft above the desert floor.
 |
| The Window |
We wanted to go a little beyond that, so with our right mind we chose the Emory Peak Trail, which is the most backbreaking one. Emory Peak is the highest point in the park, standing at 7825 ft. The trail is 9 miles roundtrip. First, we ascended the Pinnacles Trail to Emory Peak Trail junction (3.5 miles from Chisos Basin Trailhead). From there a 1 mile spur trail led us to the peak, which revealed exquisite landscapes along the way. The last quarter mile is very steep, and the last 25 ft requires a semi-technical scramble up an exposed rock face. We had to brush up our juvenile rock-climbing skills to deal with that part. Once at the top, the 360° panoramic views left us awestruck. Words fail us to describe the view around us, so we will take refuge behind the snapshots. Most of the northern section of the park and a substantial part of the Chisos Range to the south can be perceived from here.
 |
| Emory Peak |
 |
| Summit; finally! |
 |
| Casa Grande from Emory Peak Trail |
We heard the sighting of a family of black bear by our fellow hikers, but luck was not what we had. The return to Chisos Basin Trailhead was detoured by about 1 mile via the Chisos Basin Loop Trail. This trail passes through shaded stands of dense vegetation and outstanding vistas from the Window with Chihuahua desert at the backdrop. We were fortunate enough to stumble upon a herd of mule deer; the first wildlife sighting on that day. The whole hike took around 5 hours. The return to the RGV Campground was uneventful barring some isolated encounters with roadrunners.
 |
| The juvenile members of the Odocoileus hemionus family |
Day 3
 |
| The sprinting Geococcyx californianus |
No excursion in BBNP is complete without a ride along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. This 30 mile scenic road highlights the geological grandeur of BBNP; at the same time offering several scenic overlooks and exhibits on the way. The grey or dark brown colored low-lying hills, the V-shaped back side of the Window, and the Casa Grande are the important features in the first few miles. The Blue Creek Ranch and Sotol Vista Overlook come into view between 8 and 9 miles, famous for red rock formations and first hint of the Santa Elena Canyon, respectively. Around the 15th mile, the Goat Mountain and the Mule Ears both represent underground volcanic activities millions of years ago. Igneous rock trickled into the surface through older sediment layers and formed bizarre shapes like the two eroded dikes of the Mule Ears.
 |
| The framing of Sierra del Carmen |
 |
| Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive |
 |
| Autumn colors of the desert |
 |
| Mule Ears |
The Tuff Canyon at 20th mile presents a gaping view of the Blue Creek valley from three different vista points. After crossing the layered mountain of Cerro Castolon, the Castolon Historic District suddenly appears at the 22nd mile. The historic La Harmonia Store (located in the same building as the visitor center) provided us a full range of supplies for the rest of the day.
 |
| Tuff Canyon with Cerro Castolon at the backdrop |
 |
| Desert flowers |
Further 8 miles drive along the road took us to Santa Elena Canyon Overlook via the Santa Elena Canyon River Access. The scenic drive ends here, and exposes a stunning panoramic view of the canyon. The Santa Elena Canyon Trail starts from the overlook, and is about 2 miles roundtrip. After passing Terlingua Creek, the trail ascends through a staircase to a viewpoint, then again descends back to the edge of the water. It further continues until the towering 1500 ft canyon walls meet the riverbed. The formation of these gigantic limestone cliffs took about 60 million years. A number of shell fossils embedded in the large boulders provides a glimpse of the formative years.
 |
| The river access of Santa Elena Canyon |
 |
| Encompassed by Santa Elena Canyon |
The highlight of the return trip to RGV was the dazzling sunset over Sierra del Carmen. The golden color of the setting sun on top of the mountain left our eyes and mind bedazzled (though superseded by Grand Canyon sunset much later).
 |
| Sunset at Sierra del Carmen |
The return from a national park is not so easy on the mind. But being the last day of Thanksgiving weekend, our professional life was beckoning us to return to our workplace. With a heavy heart we started our return journey, with a brief stopover at the Fossil Bone Exhibit on the road between Panther Junction and Persimmon Gap. This 26 mile stretch within the park has a number of roadside exhibits and allows a scenic exploration of the desert environment, which we missed in the first day. The speedy drive (100 mph ± 10) through the state and interstate highways was again exciting. The sighting of a double rainbow at Fredericksburg was the icing on the cake. After reaching home, the odometer reading indicated a drive of 1500 miles in 4 days.
Being literally at the end of the world (slightly exaggerated; United States is NOT the world), BBNP is quite a voyage from any metropolitan areas in Texas. But you owe it to yourself to visit there at least once in your lifetime.
