Nordic Diaries – Between Fjords and Skylines

Disclaimer:

This is a very long post. We tried our best to shorten it, but this is what we came up with finally. Those who are allergic to long reviews are advised to go to Yelp or Tripadvisor.

All the photographs were taken by us and copyrighted. Reproduction in any media is prohibited without permission.

Day 1: Arrival in Stockholm – A Journey Begins

Summer vacations have a special way of turning ordinary days into lasting memories; a time to slow down, reconnect, and rediscover the joy of new places and familiar faces. This journey was no different; a long-awaited Scandinavian escape, planned between workdays and casual conversations. And finally, there we were, on our way to Scandinavia.

After a smooth flight connection from Mumbai through Zurich, we finally landed in Stockholm, feeling that familiar mix of excitement and curiosity that comes with arriving in a new city. The air outside Arlanda Airport was crisp and cool, a nice change from the Indian summer. A quick taxi ride took us to our hotel in Solna, a quiet, green part of the city.

The hotel was simple and comfortable, just what we needed after a day of travel. The real highlight of the evening, though, was meeting an old college friend, someone we had not seen in over 25 years, welcomed us into his home near Solna Centrum. We spent hours catching up, sharing old stories, and making politically incorrect statements over a delicious home‑cooked Indian dinner.

It was the perfect beginning to our time in Scandinavia; a gentle arrival, familiar faces in a new place, and that feeling of being far from home yet completely at ease.

 

Day 2: Gamla Stan’s Timeless Charm and the Heartbeat of the City

Our first morning in Stockholm started right where the city itself began – Gamla Stan, the old town. With its cobbled lanes, mustard-yellow buildings, and small cafés tucked into every corner, it felt like walking through a perfectly preserved piece of history.

We began at the majestic Royal Palace, its grand Baroque façade stretching wide along the waterfront. Even today, it is the official residence of the Swedish monarch. We watched the changing of the guard, a ceremonial spectacle of precision and tradition, before heading inside.

Within the palace, the Livrustkammaren (Royal Armoury) turned out to be a real highlight. Jewel‑encrusted swords, armour gleaming under soft lights, and royal carriages preserved in all their glory. Just next door, the Royal Coin Cabinet is an intriguing collection of coins, medals, and historic treasures – tiny yet powerful symbols of the country’s evolution.

From there, we wandered into Stortorget Square, the oldest square in Stockholm, surrounded by tall, narrow merchant houses painted in vivid reds, greens, and yellows. Overlooking Stortorget Square was one of world’s most inspiring institutions, the Nobel Prize Museum. Stepping inside felt like entering a temple of human achievement. The museum celebrates not just the laureates but the spirit of curiosity and courage that drives discovery.

The Nobel Prize Museum

The first thing that caught our eye was the ceiling installation of moving banners, each displaying the name and field of a Nobel Laureate. Interactive displays and multimedia exhibits brought the stories of the laureates to life, revealing how groundbreaking ideas often begin with simple questions. We lingered before the fascinating personal artifacts, e.g., handwritten manuscript by Einstein, original lab instruments, and quite surprisingly, the bicycle used by Prof. Amartya Sen during his Shantiniketan days.

A short walk led us to Saint Nicholas Cathedral, also known as Stockholm Cathedral, whose warm brick walls have seen countless coronations and royal weddings. Inside, the wooden statue of Saint George and the Dragon stood as a striking reminder of courage and faith, its details unbelievably lifelike.

Wandering further, we spotted an ancient Viking Rune carved right into the side of a building; so easy to miss, yet such a powerful reminder of the city’s ancient roots. We then turned onto Västerlånggatan, the old town’s lively main street, filled with little cafés and souvenir shops. Curiosity drew us down Mårten Trotzigs Gränd, the narrowest alley in Stockholm, where the walls nearly touched our shoulders as we climbed its steep steps.

Not far away, hidden behind the Finnish Church, we discovered Järnpojke, the “Iron Boy”; a barely 15 cm tall statue. Locals often leave him little gifts or scarves in winter, and touching his bronze head is said to bring luck. A few streets away stood Gamla Stan’s Obelisk, quietly marking its historic ground since the late 18th century.

By afternoon, we stepped beyond the old town to the historic city centre. Our destination was Kungsträdgården, the King’s Garden, often called Stockholm’s living room. In that bright summer day, it was alive with a vibrant cherry blossom, a plethora of tulips, and swans stretching out on the adjacent pond. Little did they care about the chaos created by the fellow Homo Sapiens species.

Cherry Blossom at Kungsträdgården 

Tulips at Kungsträdgården

As the light began to fade, we wandered into the nearby shopping streets, to make the best use of our time. Our first day had taken us from medieval alleys and hidden treasures to the modern heart of Stockholm, and we were only just getting started.

 

Day 3: A Royal Escape – Drottningholm Palace

The third day was all about royalty. A long bus ride across the suburbs of Stockholm brought us to Drottningholm Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and still the private residence of Sweden’s royal family. Set right by the lake, its perfect symmetry and grand façade looked straight out of a painting.

Drottningholm Palace

Inside, the Grand Reception Halls were nothing short of breathtaking. Each room unfolded like a chapter in Sweden’s royal story; lofty ceilings, towering mirrors framed in gold, and parquet floors polished to a soft sheen. The State Apartments glowed with natural light pouring in from tall windows, bouncing off crystal chandeliers.

We walked under the ceiling frescoes, where entire mythological scenes unfurled overhead. In one hall, gods and goddesses swept across the sky in swirling clouds. In another, allegories of power and wisdom were rendered in soft, luminous tones.

Moving deeper into the palace, we wandered through lavishly decorated halls filled with tapestries, portraits, and carved pilasters. One gallery opened to another, revealing opulent furniture upholstered in rich brocades, walls dressed with intricate stuccowork, and candelabras standing like silent sentinels from another age.

When we finally stepped out into the sunlight, the Palace Gardens opened up in layers. Formal Baroque layouts framed elegant fountains. Beyond them, a more natural English park invited quiet exploration. We wandered shaded paths, pausing often just to soak in the serene atmosphere.

The Palace as seen from the Garden

Tucked deep within the gardens was the Chinese Pavilion, a charming summer retreat built for the queen. Its red‑lacquered walls and gilded dragons offered a playful contrast to the palace’s formality. Another highlight was the Palace Theatre – the Drottningholm Court Theatre – where original stage machinery, hand‑painted scenery, and wooden chandeliers lit by candlelight still survive here, making it the oldest theatre of its kind still in use.

By afternoon, it was time to head back, not just to Solna, but onward to the next chapter of our trip.

 

From Stockholm to Bergen: The Gateway to the Fjords

After checking out from our hotel in Solna, we made our way to Arlanda Airport once again; this time, bound for Norway.

The short haul flight from Arlanda to Bergen was a visual treat from start to finish. As it crossed into Norwegian airspace, the breathtaking view from above unfolded like a dream; glittering lakes, snow-dusted peaks, and winding fjords stitched together.

Bergen, famously known as Norway’s picture-perfect gateway to the fjords, greeted us with its signature charm. From the airport, the sleek Bybanen light rail whisked us toward the city, gliding past quiet suburbs and forested hills before arriving at Byparken station in the heart of Bergen Sentrum. From there, it was just a brief walk to Ole Vigs Gate in Møhlenpris, where we settled into a lavish 3-bedroom apartment closer to the University of Bergen community.

As evening approached, we strolled down to the harbour and into Bryggen, the historic wharf lined with colourful wooden houses that once belonged to Hanseatic merchants. At that time of the evening, the streets were buzzing softly with a series of vintage cars exhibition.

The Historic District of Bryggen as seen from the fjords

It was a relaxed end to a long, beautiful day; from royal halls and painted ceilings to fjord air and waterfront charm. A perfect transition from Sweden’s history to Norway’s natural magic.

 

Day 4: A Journey Through the Fjords – Myrdal, Flåm, and the Sognefjord

No trip to Norway would be complete without venturing into its fjords, and today was the day we had long anticipated. We started early at Bergen Station, to catch the Bergensbana train to Myrdal. The route itself felt like a trailer of the whole movie; steep mountainsides, snow-covered meadows, winding rivers, and clusters of red cottages dotting the valleys. The train climbed higher and higher, and with every turn, the landscape seemed to expand into something even more magnificent.

At Myrdal, we transferred to the legendary Flåm Railway (Flåmsbana), a masterpiece of engineering and art, for what is known as one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world. As the train descended towards the fjord, the scenery transformed dramatically: roaring waterfalls cascading down sheer cliffs, deep valleys blanketed in wildflowers, and mist curling over the mountain ridges. Almost midway, we stepped out to feel the spray of the Kjosfossen waterfall. The thunderous roar of the waterfall and the cascading water was accompanied by an ethereal performance – a hauntingly beautiful song by a costumed “Huldra” – the mythical forest spirit, her voice echoing through the mist and cliffs, turning the moment into pure Nordic magic.

Flamsbana - One of the most beautiful train rides in the world

When the train finally rolled into Flåm, we were greeted by a sight straight out of a picture postcard. The village sat at the very edge of Aurlandsfjord, cradled by steep mountains rising almost vertically from the water. Wooden boats floated lazily by the pier, and the air had that crisp mix of pine and sea salt.

After chilling out in the sun and leisurely strolling through the village, we boarded the Norled Sognefjord cruise, a sleek, modern vessel bound for Bergen through Norway’s longest and deepest fjord. The journey lasted about five hours, but time seemed to stand still once we began gliding through the still waters.

Sognefjord - The king of fjords

The Sognefjord, also known as the King of the Fjords, looked like an endless corridor of nature’s grandeur. Towering cliffs soared on both sides, some over a thousand meters high, their peaks capped with snow even in summer. Waterfalls cascaded down in silver ribbons, merging into the dark, glassy water below. Occasionally, the boat passed tiny hamlets, clusters of red and white houses perched on narrow strips of land.

At one point, we drifted into the junction of Nærøyfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage site renowned for its raw, untouched beauty. Here, the fjord narrowed dramatically, the mountains closing in so tightly it felt like we were sailing through a giant canyon of stone and mist.

The junction of Aurlandsfjord and Nærøyfjord

As we continued westward, the afternoon sunlight shifted, painting the water in shades of blue and silver. We found ourselves standing out on deck, hair flying in the wind, just watching. The sheer scale of the landscape made everything else feel small. It was one of those rare experiences where words fall short.

Near evening, as the boat approached Bergen, the fjord widened into coastal inlets, dotted with lighthouses and fishing cottages. Returning to the city felt like waking from a beautiful dream. We ended the day with strolling through the quaint streets of Bryggen, still swaying gently from the rhythm of the boat and the memory of those endless fjord walls stretching into the sky.

 

Day 5: Exploring Bergen – Between Mountains and Museums

After the deep tranquillity of the fjords, we dedicated the next day to discovering Bergen itself, a city where every turn seems to offer a new perspective of sky, water, and mountain.

We kicked off the morning with a ride on the Fløibanen Funicular, one of Bergen’s most beloved attractions. We boarded the bright red car at the lower station near Bryggen. The eight-minute ride to the upper station felt like gliding through a dreamscape, ending in a moment of pure serenity at the summit of Mount Fløyen.

At the Fløyen viewpoint, the panorama was breathtaking; the entire city lay spread out below, framed by green hills and blue fjords. To one side, the shimmering waters of Vågen Harbour; to the other, the endless stretch of forest that seemed to go on forever.

Bird's eye view of Bergen from Mount Fløyen

After soaking in the view, we wandered farther up the trails that crisscross the mountaintop. It was hard to believe such wilderness existed just minutes from the city centre; tranquil lakes, moss-covered boulders, and soft forest paths. We stopped at Lake Skomakerdiket, a small mirror-like pond reflecting the pine trees that surrounded it, and then wandered through Trollskogen (Troll Park), where whimsical wooden trolls peeking out from behind trees, delighting both children and adults.

Instead of taking the funicular back down, we decided to hike down the mountain. The descent followed a gently winding gravel trail that gradually opened up to reveal ever-changing views of the city. Every few turns, we stopped just to take it all in; red rooftops clustered near the water, church spires rising through the trees, and ferries leaving silver waves behind them.

By afternoon, we found ourselves strolling through Bryggen again. We explored Håkon’s Hall, the grand medieval banquet hall built by King Håkon IV, and the nearby Rosenkrantz Tower, a fortress that once guarded the harbour. A short walk led us to St. Mary’s Church (Mariakirken), one of Norway’s oldest stone churches, its Romanesque architecture quietly elegant amidst the lively harbour.

We ended the day at Festplassen, the city’s open-air plaza and cultural heart. Nearby stood the Grieg Hall (Grieghallen), a striking concert venue known for its modern architecture and world-class performances, and the KODE Art Museums, showcasing works by Edvard Munch and other Scandinavian masters. With all the fountains, gardens, and reflections on the nearby Lille Lungegårdsvannet Lake, it offered a serene finale to a day steeped in history and beauty.

 

Day 6: Bergen’s Coastal Charms – Osøyro and Sandviken

For our final day in Norway, we ventured beyond the city to explore Bergen’s suburbs and its tranquil coastal gems.

We started the morning with a short bus ride down south to Osøyro, a serene town nestled along the Bjørnafjorden. We followed the trail up to Lysefjell, where the blue expanse of the fjord with its countless inlets, the Tysnes Mountains rising in the south, and the Folgefonna Glacier faintly visible on the distant horizon, all unfolded like tiny brushstrokes on a vast canvas.

In the afternoon, we headed back toward Bergen and made a detour to Sandviken, one of the city’s oldest and most picturesque districts. Among its charming wooden houses stood the striking Sandvik Church (Sandvikskirken), a beautiful neo-Gothic structure built of red brick in the late 19th century. From there, a short walk led us to the Bergenhus Fortress, its medieval walls standing proudly by the harbour, a reminder of Bergen’s long and storied past.

 

From Fjords to Boulevards: Back to Sweden

Later that afternoon, we boarded another short haul flight from Bergen to Gothenburg, which offered another window show; endless fjords and snow-capped peaks slowly giving way to Sweden’s softer landscapes; forests, lakes, and the scattered islands of its western archipelago. By the time we reached Gothenburg city centre and checked into our hotel, we felt both content and reflective, carrying Norway’s wild beauty with us as we returned once more to the city life of Sweden.

 

Day 7: A Day in Gothenburg – Cozy Streets, Green Parks, and a Touch of History

Our visit to Gothenburg felt like stepping into a city that balances small‑town charm with a cosmopolitan vibe. From cobbled streets and hilltop fortresses to vast green parks, every corner offered something special.

We started our day in Haga, Gothenburg’s oldest and most vibrant district. Haga Nygata, the main pedestrian street is full of wooden houses with lace‑curtained windows, boutiques spilling over with handmade crafts, and antique shops tucked into historic buildings. At the heart of the district stood Haga Kyrkan, an elegant 19th century church whose soft brick façade and serene interior offered a peaceful pause. Just outside the church garden, we caught a glimpse of the famous Rainbow Snake, a colourful piece of public art, though the main 320-meter sculpture lies hidden underground in the nearby metro station.

The Haga District

From Haga, we set off on a short but steep walk up to Skansen Kronan, a 17th century hilltop fortress that once protected the city. The climb was totally worth it. At the top, the stone walls stood silent but proud, and the view over Gothenburg’s rooftops and the harbour beyond was breathtaking. We lingered there for a while, and then headed west towards Linneplatsen, a lively area where trams clattered past cafés and restaurants with outdoor seating.

Skansen Kronan

From Linneplatsen, it was just a short walk into the vast green expanse of Slottskogen Park, a sprawling 137-hectare park in central Gothenburg. It’s a local favourite for picnics and leisurely walks; wide lawns, winding paths under tall trees, and everyone enjoying the sunshine. Once we wandered into the Children’s Zoo, not only the little ones, but the adults were delighted as well by the sight of penguins wobbling by the water and sea lions basking in the sun.

Right next door was the Botanical Garden, one of the largest in Europe and an absolute must-see. The garden unfolded like a living tapestry: serene Japanese glades, rock gardens bursting with alpine blooms, and greenhouses sheltering orchids and exotic plants. We found a quiet bench, closed our eyes for a moment, and just breathed in the scent of earth and fresh blossoms.

As the day wound down, we made our way back toward the city centre to visit Domkyrkan, Gothenburg’s grand cathedral. Its simple yet graceful interior offered a calm space to sit and reflect. Our final stop was Järntorget, a lively square that perfectly captured Gothenburg’s creative energy.

 

Day 8: Back to Stockholm Through Scenic Rails

After exploring Gothenburg, it was time to return to Stockholm. We boarded an SJ train in the morning, settling by the window as the city slowly faded away. The 5 hours journey through the Swedish countryside felt like a canvas in motion; endless forests, meadows dotted with red barns, pristine lakes brushing against a bright summer sky.

In the late afternoon, we rolled into Sundbyberg, followed by a bus ride to the hotel in Solna, the same place we had started our journey days earlier. It felt almost like coming full circle; familiar streets, the same welcoming lobby, and that feeling of returning “home” even while traveling.

This day was more than just a transition; it was a quiet pause between adventures. The evening ended just as it had begun in the first day, with a second reunion at our friend’s place. The conversation picked up right where it had left off; laughter, stories, and another round of delicious home-cooked Indian food. After a week of exploration and discovery, it felt like coming home.

 

Day 9: Islands, Green Havens, and Grand Icons – Vaxholm, Djurgården, City Centre & City Hall

The morning began with a cheerful bus ride to Vaxholm, joined by our friends eager to share one more Swedish adventure. Vaxholm, often called the gateway to the Stockholm Archipelago, greeted us with its old-world coastal charm. After some light outdoor activities along the harbour, we set out to explore the historic town, with its pastel wooden houses, cozy cafés, and art boutiques, and admired the Vaxholm Fortress (Vaxholms Kastell) across the narrow channel, a sturdy 16th century stronghold that once guarded the approach to Stockholm by sea.

Vaxholm Fortress

By noon time, we boarded a boat bound for Lidingö, gliding through the Stockholm Archipelago, a maze of nearly 30,000 islands and islets scattered like jewels over the Baltic. From Lidingö, another boat ride carried us to Djurgården, Stockholm’s green oasis. The island unfolded in leafy tranquillity; wide paths, blooming gardens, and glimpses of the archipelago through the trees. A walk through its scenic trails led us to the Vasa Museum, home to the magnificent 17th century warship that famously sank on its maiden voyage and was miraculously recovered centuries later.

Next came Skansen, the world’s oldest open-air museum, where traditional Swedish houses, workshops, and farmsteads recreated centuries of rural life. From there, a short stroll brought us to the ABBA Museum, a lively celebration of Sweden’s most beloved pop icons, complete with music, costumes, and the irresistible nostalgia.

Late afternoon, we took another tram ride back to Stockholm’s historic city centre, passing landmarks like the Royal Palace, the Parliament House (Riksdagshuset), and the elegant Opera House, each glowing warmly under the fading daylight.

The perfect finale awaited at Stockholm City Hall (Stadshuset), one of the city’s most striking landmarks. Its red-brick façade rose gracefully along the waterfront, coronated by the golden Three Crowns. Inside, grand halls such as the Blue Hall hosts the Nobel Banquet each December; and the Golden Hall shimmers with mosaics made of over 18 million gold tiles depicting Sweden’s history and mythology.

Stockholm City Hall

Standing in the courtyard as twilight deepened over Lake Mälaren, the reflection of City Hall in the still water seemed to capture the essence of Stockholm itself; elegant, enduring, and endlessly enchanting. It was the perfect note to end our Scandinavian journey on.

 

Day 10: Homeward Bound

The early morning taxi ride to Arlanda Airport felt a bit symbolic, like tracing the journey in reverse, leaving behind cobbled streets and fjord trails as we headed back toward familiar skies. The return flight via Munich was uneventful. When the lights of Mumbai finally appeared below, it hit us how far we had come, not just in miles, but in moments. Ten days of travel, stories, and friendship, wrapped up into one unforgettable summer. The Nordic calm had already turned into nostalgia, but the feeling stayed; that quiet promise that one day, we will be back, “Schwarzenegger style”.