Munich: A Year in the Heart of Bavaria

Our stay in Munich spanned from 2005 to 2006, a year and a half that left an indelible mark on our life, outlook, and professional career. Living in the heart of Bavaria offered not just a glimpse into German culture, but also the opportunity to explore its art, science, architecture, festivals, and way of life from within. Munich became our window to Europe; a place from which weekend journeys radiated across the continent, from the Alps to the Mediterranean.

It was not until now, that I finally felt the thrust to pen down these experiences. Not as a diary of the past, but as a recollection of moments that had quietly matured into lasting memories. In the following months, I intend to continue writing about our travels across Europe, all of which took place during that unforgettable year in Munich; a year that shaped both our curiosity and our sense of place in the wider world.

 

The Historic Heart of Munich

Living at Münchner Freiheit, the vibrant centre of the Schwabing district, had its own advantages. Once the heart of Munich’s bohemian life, Schwabing still carried an artistic pulse; leafy boulevards lined with cafés, galleries, and boutique stores. Modern sculptures stood beside elegant 19th-century façades, and the nearby Walking Man, a towering white figure striding purposefully along Leopoldstrasse, seemed to symbolize Munich’s blend of art, humour, and forward motion.

The Walking Man at Leopoldstrasse

One summer morning, we started walking down Leopoldstrasse, passing through lively neighbourhoods, until we reached Universität. The Siegestor (Victory Gate) stands proudly between the University district and Schwabing, a triumphal arch crowned with a statue of Bavaria. The broad Ludwigstrasse stretched before us; one of Munich’s grandest boulevards, designed in the 19th century under King Ludwig I. The Ludwig-Maximilians-Universität (LMU) dominated the University district, its neo-classical façade overlooking the bustling Geschwister-Scholl-Platz, named after the student resistance group (Scholl siblings) of World War II. Opposite stood the Ludwigskirche, easily recognizable by its twin towers and monumental fresco above the altar.

As we followed Ludwigstrasse southward, the architecture grew more regal, leading us naturally to Odeonsplatz, one of Munich’s most distinguished squares. Here, Italian-inspired grandeur met Bavarian pride. The Feldherrnhalle, modelled after Florence’s Loggia dei Lanzi, honoured the generals of Bavaria’s past, while the ochre façade of the Theatinerkirche, with its ornate Baroque towers, dominated the skyline. The square marked the edge of the old royal district; a symbolic gateway between the monarchy and the city.

Feldhernhalle

Theatinerkirche

The Residenz, stands as a sprawling complex of lavish courtyards, ornate halls, and museums, reflecting centuries of Bavarian history and artistic grandeur. Nearby stood the Staatstheater with its elegant neoclassical façade; one of Munich’s premier opera and musical theatres. Maximilianstraße, Munich’s elegant boulevard lined with luxury boutiques and historic buildings, seamlessly runs through the historic district, serving as both a scenic promenade and a vital axis linking the city’s royal and commercial heart. 

Antiquarium Hall of Residenz

A short walk along Residenzstrasse brought us to Marienplatz, the beating heart of Munich since the Middle Ages. The Neue Rathaus, with its soaring neo-Gothic spire, commanded attention, and at its centre, the Glockenspiel came to life as crowds gathered to watch its mechanical figurines reenact historical events. In and around the square stood some of Munich’s most recognizable landmarks: the Frauenkirche, with its twin onion-domed towers rising above the rooftops; the Alte Rathaus, with its pointed tower recalling medieval days; and the lively Hofbräuhaus, where centuries of Bavarian warmth echoed through vaulted beer halls.

Neue Rathaus at Marienplatz

From Marienplatz, we strolled down Neuhauser Strasse, a pedestrian boulevard alive with shops, street performers, and fountains, leading us toward Karlsplatz (Stachus). The historic Karlstor, one of the city’s old gates, framed the scene with its white arches. The square connected old Munich with the newer quarters, symbolizing the city’s evolution from medieval town to modern metropolis.

Frauenkirche

A few minutes farther west, the landscape opened into Hauptbahnhof, Munich’s main railway station. The area around it revealed another face of the city; cosmopolitan and energetic. The imposing Justizpalast (Palace of Justice), with its grand glass dome, stood as a striking example of late 19th-century architecture. Nearby, the neo-Gothic St. Paul’s Church, with its soaring spires, added grace to the skyline.

Karlsplatz Stachus

Königsplatz – The Classical Forum

From Hauptbahnhof, the U-Bahn line U2 connects Königsplatz, where Munich’s rhythm seemed to slow into a graceful harmony of stone, symmetry, and open space. The approach itself was striking; wide boulevards lined with stately buildings gradually giving way to an expansive square. Designed in the early 19th century under King Ludwig I, Königsplatz was conceived as a “window to antiquity,” a place where architecture, art, and learning would merge to reflect Munich’s identity as the “Athens on the Isar.”

Propyläen at Königsplatz

As we entered the square, the scene unfolded like a stage set in marble. At the western end rose the Propyläen, a monumental gateway with Doric columns and sculpted friezes depicting scenes from Greek history. Facing it across the vast green expanse stood two temple-like museums; the Glyptothek and the Staatliche Antikensammlungen.

The Glyptothek, Munich’s oldest museum, housed a remarkable collection of Greek and Roman sculptures. Inside, the galleries displayed masterpieces such as the Barberini Faun, Aegina Marbles, and Bust of Homer. Across the square, the Antikensammlungen (State Collection of Antiquities) complemented it with exquisite pottery, jewellery, and bronzes, giving insight into the everyday life of the ancient world.

Glyptothek at Königsplatz

Between these monumental façades, Königsplatz itself exuded tranquillity. The square’s orderly geometry and pale stone façades seemed to resonate with the city’s intellectual pulse, connecting art, history, and urban space in perfect balance.

Englischer Garten – The Green Heart

Few urban parks in the world rival the sheer size and serenity of Englischer Garten, a vast expanse of greenery stretching from the city center to the northern suburbs along the Isar River. Spanning over 900 acres, it felt less like a park and more like a living landscape. Entering from the Universität area, the park opened into sweeping meadows, shaded groves, and winding trails that seemed to invite endless wandering.

Monopteros at Englischer Garten

At the heart of the garden rose the Monopteros, a small Greek-style temple perched atop a hill, offering panoramic views over the park and the distant skyline of Munich’s old town. Not far away, the Chinese Tower (Chinesischer Turm) stood surrounded by one of the city’s most popular Beer Gartens, its wooden pagoda echoing with the sounds of a live brass band.

Chinesischer Turm at Englischer Garten

What made the Englischer Garten remarkable was its balance. Whether one preferred a leisurely stroll by the streams, a casual game of Frisbee on the lawns, or simply resting under the soothing summer sun, the park offered a timeless refuge from urban life.

Nymphenburg Palace – A Baroque Masterpiece

A short tram ride from Hauptbahnhof brought us to the western district of Neuhausen-Nymphenburg. The moment we approached the Nymphenburg Palace, its immense Baroque façade appeared like a vision of elegance reflected upon a long, still canal.

Nymphenburg Palace

Commissioned in the 17th century as a summer residence for the Wittelsbach dynasty, Nymphenburg embodied the wealth and taste of Bavaria’s ruling family. Crossing the stone bridge and stepping into the courtyard, we entered the world of ornate halls, gilded ceilings, and sweeping perspectives designed to impress visiting nobility.

Inside, the centrepiece was the Steinerner Saal, a magnificent ballroom stretching across two floors. Its towering frescoes by Johann Baptist Zimmermann depicted scenes from the heavens. Each room beyond unfolded with distinct character; the Queen’s Bedroom preserved the bed in which King Ludwig II, the “Fairy Tale King,” was born; and the galleries displayed family portraits chronicling centuries of Wittelsbach lineage.

Stepping out into the palace park, we entered a vast landscape that felt like a living tapestry of Baroque and Romantic design. Long axial avenues stretched into the distance, intersected by canals and dotted with smaller pavilions. The Amalienburg, a Rococo hunting lodge with mirrored interiors and silver stucco work, was the most exquisite of these. Nearby, the Pagodenburg, Badenburg, and Magdalenenklause each reflected a different architectural fantasy; from Oriental motifs to rustic hermitage charm.

Amalienburg

The Art Museums – The Pinakothek Ensemble

A short tram ride from Hauptbahnhof brought us to Kunstareal, Munich’s art quarter. Here, amid tree-lined streets and minimalist plazas, stood the three great Pinakothek museums; a triad that captured the full sweep of European art history, from Renaissance masters to modern abstraction.

Our visit began at the Alte Pinakothek, one of the world’s oldest galleries, founded by King Ludwig I in the early 19th century. We paused before the intense gaze of Dürer’s “Self-Portrait”. Nearby hung Leonardo da Vinci’s “Madonna of the Carnation”, delicate and serene, while Rubens’ monumental “The Great Last Judgment” dominated an entire wall with its vivid colour. Works by Rembrandt, Raphael, and Titian surrounded us, each canvas alive with texture, movement, and emotion.

Alte Pinakothek

Just across the street, the Neue Pinakothek bridged the transition from classical art to the modern age. Here we found Caspar David Friedrich’s misty landscapes, where solitude met spirituality, and Monet’s gardens, alive with vibrating colour. Van Gogh’s “Sunflowers”, one of the museum’s treasures, radiated its familiar warmth, its yellows and greens glowing like captured sunlight.

The Sunflowers by Van Gogh

Finally, we entered the Pinakothek der Moderne, a striking contrast in both architecture and spirit. Its minimalist concrete and glass structure opened into soaring white spaces that celebrated 20th- and 21st-century creativity. Inside, art, design, and technology coexisted in fluid dialogue. We stood before Picasso’s cubist experiments, Kandinsky’s abstract symphonies, and Warhol’s pop art icons, each challenging the boundaries of form and meaning.

Olympia Zentrum and BMW Welt

Through U-Bahn line U3, Münchner Freiheit was well connected to Olympia Zentrum, where Munich’s spirit of innovation and optimism came to life in sweeping glass and steel. Built for the 1972 Olympic Games, the Olympiapark still felt futuristic decades later. The park spread out in gentle hills and reflective lakes, an architectural symphony where nature and engineering intertwined effortlessly.

Olympic Stadium as viewed from Olympic Tower

The Olympic Stadium, with tent-like roof supported by slender steel cables, was inspired by the Alps. Even from afar, its design seemed to float; transparent yet monumental. In 2006, the stadium hosted a fan park for the FIFA World Cup, welcoming football fans from around the world and allowing them to watch matches featuring their favourite teams on multiple giant screens, all free of charge.

Fan Park at Olympic Stadium during 2006 FIFA World Cup

Just beside the stadium stood the Olympia Tower, piercing the sky at nearly 300 meters. We took the high-speed elevator to the top, where the observation deck offered an unparalleled 360° view of Munich, the silver curves of the stadium roof below, and the faint silhouette of the Alps on the horizon. The domes of the Frauenkirche was visible in the distance, and the Isar River was seen winding through the city.

A short walk from the park brought us to a striking contrast of design; the BMW Headquarters and BMW Welt, Munich’s tribute to precision engineering and modern aesthetics. The headquarters tower, shaped like a four-cylinder engine, stood as both architectural statement and symbol of industrial excellence.

BMW Headquarters and BMW Welt as viewed from Olympia Tower

Across the street, stood the BMW Welt building, with its twisting glass façade and futuristic curves. Inside, it was part showroom, part museum, part stage; a celebration of mobility in all its forms. We wandered through interactive exhibits that traced the company’s evolution; from early motorcycles and postwar roadsters to concept cars and electric prototypes.

The BMW Museum, housed in a circular silver structure nearby, deepened the story, blending art and engineering with meticulous detail. Vintage models stood beside engines and design sketches, illustrating how each generation of innovation built upon the last.

 

Allianz Arena – The Modern Cathedral of Football

On my first day in Munich, along the U-Bahn line U6, I first noticed the Allianz Arena. In the evening, the entire stadium was illuminated in a brilliant red, probably hosting a Bayern Munich match. Its futuristic façade glowed from a distance, capturing my imagination immediately. One summer morning, we finally found the time to explore the stadium from within, eager to experience up close what had so captivated us from the train.

Stepping out of the Fröttmaning station, we joined the broad pedestrian walkway that gently curved toward the stadium. The stadium stood roughly ten minutes away, but the approach was designed for anticipation through a steady, ceremonial walk. The structure seemed to float, its façade made of thousands of diamond-shaped ETFE panels that could illuminate in red, blue, or white depending on which team was playing that day.

Allianz Arena during a Bayern Munich match

As we drew closer, the scale became overwhelming. The translucent panels stretched endlessly around the oval, glowing like a living organism. From up close, each panel revealed its texture and engineering precision; a perfect marriage of art and aerodynamics. Inside, our walking tour began at the main concourse. Our guide, a lifelong Bayern Munich supporter, shared stories of the stadium’s design and the city’s footballing passion, pointing out that the arena could host over 75,000 fans yet remain remarkably efficient in structure and acoustics.

We entered through the players’ tunnel, walking the same path as legends of Bayern Munich have for years. Emerging at pitch level, the vastness of the stadium unfolded before us; rows upon rows of red seats rising steeply into the sky. The tour continued through the locker rooms and the press conference hall. The Bayern Munich Museum, with trophies and medals gleamed behind glass displays, completed the experience.

Locker Room of Bayern Munich

Deutsches Museum – A Temple of Science and Innovation

Few places in Munich captured the human spirit of curiosity and invention as powerfully as the Deutsches Museum. Built on its own island in the Isar River; the Museumsinsel; this immense institution stood not just as a museum, but as a celebration of humankind’s boundless drive to understand and create. Inside, more than 30,000 exhibits awaited, spanning everything from the birth of civilization’s tools to the frontiers of modern technology.

Deutsches Museum

We began our exploration in the Mining Exhibit, one of the museum’s most atmospheric experiences. Descending into a recreated network of tunnels, the lights dimmed and the air grew cooler. We walked through scenes of miners chiselling rock, hauling ore, and guiding carts along narrow shafts. The rumble of machinery and the faint scent of damp earth made it feel almost real; a tribute to the labour that fuelled the modern world.

The Energy and Power Hall followed; vast and dynamic, filled with full-scale engines, turbines, and models of hydroelectric systems. A massive steam engine hissed rhythmically beside early electrical generators. Nearby, displays on renewable energy illustrated Germany’s leadership in sustainable technologies.

In the Aviation Hall, suspended aircraft floated above our heads; fragile early gliders by Otto Lilienthal, gleaming propeller planes, and a full-scale Messerschmitt Bf 109, its polished metal frame reflecting the lights from above. Just beyond, the Space Exploration Gallery transported us beyond the atmosphere. Rockets, satellites, and a full-scale Apollo capsule told the story of humanity’s journey into the cosmos.

Aviation Hall at Deutsches Museum

The Ship Navigation Hall, stretching along the river, was equally captivating. Inside, the hull of an actual sailing ship anchored the space, surrounded by models of historic vessels and navigational instruments.

Among all these marvels, the Physics and Chemistry sections felt particularly close to heart. Demonstrations of optics, electromagnetism, and thermodynamics came alive through hands-on experiments. In the chemistry wing, early laboratory setups illustrated the evolution of materials science; glass retorts, Bunsen burners, and intricate distillation systems tracing the roots of modern industry. Exhibits on polymers, semiconductors, and nanomaterials bridged past discovery with future innovation.

Interactive Periodic Table at Deutsches Museum

We wandered further into the halls of Computing and Electronics, where the story of the digital revolution unfolded; from the world’s first programmable computers to sleek modern microprocessors. Nearby, the Robotics section demonstrated autonomous machines in action, some shaped like human arms, others like agile insects, all moving with quiet precision.

We ended our visit on the upper terrace, overlooking the Isar River. The Deutsches Museum stood not only as a record of what humanity had built, but as a quiet reminder of what we could still imagine. It lay in the way everything connected; the narrative of progress woven through centuries of trial, failure, and triumph.

 

Oktoberfest – The Spirit of Munich

No stay in Munich could ever be complete without experiencing the city’s most exuberant celebration; the Oktoberfest. Every September, the Theresienwiese grounds south of the city transformed into a vibrant fairground of sound, colour, and tradition. Even from the Theresienwiese U-Bahn station, we could sense the rising excitement; the hum of accordion music, the clinking of beer mugs, and the cheerful swirl of voices in a dozen languages blending into one universal mood of festivity.

Walking up the broad avenue toward the fairgrounds felt like entering another world. The massive beer tents loomed ahead like temporary cathedrals of joy. Above the sea of people, the Bavaria Statue stood in serene grandeur, guarding the festival grounds as she had since the 19th century. Around her, tens of thousands of visitors; locals in Dirndl and Lederhosen, travellers, families, and friends; filled the open space with laughter and music.

Hofbräu-Festzelt at Oktoberfest

Each Festzelt, or beer tent, had its own character and loyal following. The Hofbräu-Festzelt, the largest and liveliest, throbbed with energy; long wooden tables packed end-to-end, oompah bands playing folk tunes, and servers expertly balancing giant steins of golden beer as they weaved through the crowd. Nearby, the Augustiner-Festhalle, known for its traditional atmosphere, poured beer directly from wooden barrels, its amber hue glowing in the soft light. The Löwenbräu and Paulaner tents offered their own charms with brass bands and clinking mugs.

Paulaner Tent at Oktoberfest

The rhythm of the festival was infectious. As the bands played Bavarian folk songs and cheerful anthems, strangers raised their glasses together, singing and swaying on wooden benches. Between toasts and laughter, we found ourselves caught in the timeless joy of the moment; a living expression of Gemütlichkeit, that untranslatable German word for warmth, friendliness, and belonging.

Beyond the tents, Oktoberfest unfolded into a full-blown carnival of rides and attractions. The Ferris wheel towered over the fairground, offering panoramic views of the city and the distant Alps. The Olympia Looping, the world’s largest portable roller coaster, sent riders twisting and looping through five dizzying loops, eliciting laughter and screams in equal measure. The Wellenflug, a giant swing ride, flung passengers high into the sky, their chairs spinning in wide arcs with the wind rushing past. Classic attractions like the Carousel and Breakdance ride blended nostalgia with adrenaline, while the Haunted House and Ghost Train delighted younger visitors with playful thrills.

Olympia Looping - Roller Coaster ride at Oktoberfest

Everywhere we looked, bright lights spun, colours whirled, and the mechanical hum of the rides mixed with the music from the tents to create an immersive spectacle. This was not just a festival; it was the soul of the city laid bare; proud of its traditions, open to the world, and brimming with life. In those few weeks each year, Munich became not just a place on the map but a feeling; of togetherness, warmth, and a shared celebration of life.

Lions of Munich

Some of the places in Munich which had always captivated me were Marienplatz and Karlsplatz, and the pedestrian street connecting these two (Neuhauser Strasse). Marienplatz is the geographical center of the city, and is always so vibrant that even if you are all by yourself strolling past the colorful shops, you will never feel lonely.

The Twins at Kaufinger Strasse

The very next day after I reached Munich, I visited Marienplatz with some enthusiastic new friends. Amongst a lot of attractions, I was fascinated by the colorful lion statues which have ornamented the fußgängerzone. They were part of the Lion Parade; the aim of which was to make an interesting spectacle for visitors during 2006 FIFA World Cup. Not only were they interesting, I also found them adorable. The statues, weighing about 50 kg each, are made of fiberglass-reinforced plastic and can support 3 times their weight (see below).

Not exactly 3 times, what did you think (see above for explanation)!!!
 

Silpi's second day in Munich; ΔT = negative 30 Kelvin from Kolkata
 

In June 2006, I was fortunate enough to experience the World Cup Soccer extravaganza. After the world cup was over, most of the statues were removed and sold off for charity. Some of the lions, being owned by the respective shops and positioned on private property, still remained on the streets, reminiscent of the football fever. Throughout my recent visit to Munich for a conference, I was surprised to find some of those in unusual places, like in front of International Congress Centre at Messestadt West, which is on the eastern outskirts of the city.
 

One of the few remaining ones, at Messe München

A City of Timeless Harmony

Munich revealed itself as a city where history, art, science, and modern life coexist seamlessly. From the bohemian streets of Münchner Freiheit, the splendour of Marienplatz, the royal grandeur of Nymphenburg Palace, to the cultural depth of the Pinakothek museums and the innovative spirit of BMW Welt, the city balanced tradition with progress at every turn. Modern landmarks like the Olympia Zentrum, Allianz Arena and the interactive wonders of the Deutsches Museum highlighted Munich’s energy and ingenuity, while its vibrant public spaces, elegant boulevards, and lush parks reflected a human-scale charm. Across it all, Munich felt alive; a city where curiosity, creativity, and celebration converge, leaving an enduring impression of elegance, warmth, and timeless vitality.