Monday, September 14, 2015

A Swiss Sojourn – Seven Days of Alpine Wonder

Switzerland had always lived in our imagination as a symphony of snow-clad peaks, crystal lakes, and pure mountain air. Though I had once visited Zurich briefly during my stay in Germany, I could not make a prolonged trip due to other commitments. However, I always longed to return; not just for the postcard beauty, but for the rare balance of nature and precision, serenity and sophistication. This time, after careful planning and preparation, we finally embarked on a seven-day journey through the heart of Switzerland.

 

Day 1: Zurich – Where Modernity Meets Timeless Grace

After a smooth flight connection from Mumbai through Munich, we finally landed in Zurich. Outside Zurich Airport, the air felt lighter, cleaner, and way cooler than Indian summer. We soon found ourselves aboard the tram to Glattbrugg–Unterriet, to check into our hotel.

After a refreshing break and a warm shower, we set out in the afternoon to explore Zurich. A short tram ride whisked us into the heart of the city – Zurich Hauptbahnhof (Central Station) – one of Europe’s busiest yet most elegant railway stations. From there, we began our walk along Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s most famous boulevard, lined with boutique stores, chocolatiers, and luxury watch brands. The pathway is stretched gracefully towards Lake Zurich, offering glimpses of glittering window displays and tree-lined sidewalks.

Zurich Hauptbahnhof

Crossing the Bahnhofbrücke, we found ourselves alongside the Limmat River, where the calm water reflected the pastel façades of medieval buildings. The Limmatquai offered picturesque views of Zurich’s historic skyline; church spires, arched bridges, and waterfront promenades bathed in the twilight.

The evening ended quietly, with a tram ride back to Glattbrugg–Unterriet, the city lights fading behind us. Zurich, with its elegant order and gentle rhythm, had set the tone for the days to come, a perfect harmony of modern life and timeless charm.

 

Day 2: Glacier Express – A Scenic Odyssey Through the Swiss Alps

Our second day began before dawn. After a quick breakfast, we caught an early morning train from Zurich Hauptbahnhof to Chur, the oldest town in Switzerland and the starting point of our much-awaited adventure – the legendary Glacier Express.

The train journey to Chur took us through a landscape slowly awakening; golden sunlight brushing across meadows, sleepy villages nestled between gentle hills, and the distant shine above alpine peaks. By mid-morning, we arrived at Chur Station, where the bright red carriages of the Glacier Express awaited.

As we boarded and settled into our panoramic seats, the adventure truly began. The Glacier Express – proudly known as the world’s slowest express train – promised a day-long voyage through the heart of the Swiss Alps, crossing deep valleys, snow-capped summits, and some of the most stunning railway engineering feats in the world.

Leaving Chur behind, the train wound its way along the Rhine Valley, following the course of the river through the dramatic Ruinalta Gorge, often called the Swiss Grand Canyon. Towering limestone cliffs rose on either side, their rugged beauty mirrored in the jade-green river below. The morning light filtered through the gorge, illuminating waterfalls and pine forests. We soon passed through the charming stations of Reichenau-Tamins, Ilanz, and Disentis/Mustér, where ancient monasteries stood framed by snow-dusted peaks.

Glacier Express on a viaduct

Between Disentis and Andermatt, the Glacier Express climbed steadily to its highest point, the Oberalppass, at 2,033 meters above sea level. Snow blanketed the slopes, even in summer, and the tiny Oberalpsee Lake, frozen in parts, shimmered under the bright sun. At Andermatt, the landscape began to change. The valleys widened, the rivers ran faster, and clusters of wooden chalets dotted the green meadows. The descent from Andermatt to Brig was a marvel of engineering; a symphony of spiralling tunnels, towering viaducts, and winding tracks.

Glacier Express at the Oberalppass

The train continued its journey through the Valais region; a sunlit valley lined with vineyards and orchards. We passed through Fiesch and Brig, where the mighty Stockalper Palace stood proudly against the backdrop of the Simplon Pass. From Visp, the route turned towards the rugged beauty of the Mattertal Valley, following the Vispa River as it rushed down from the glaciers of the Pennine Alps. The train made brief stops at St. Niklaus, Randa, and Täsch, each village framed by towering peaks and cascading waterfalls. The landscape grew more dramatic with every kilometre with the mountains becoming higher and sharper.

As the train glided into Zermatt Bahnhof, the world seemed to open up in a panorama of pure Alpine majesty. The village, car-free and wrapped in tranquillity, sat nestled beneath one of the most iconic mountains on earth – the Matterhorn. Its pyramidal peak pierced the sky, glowing golden in the afternoon sun.

We checked into our cozy chalet-style hotel, our windows framing that unforgettable view. Later, we took a leisurely stroll through Bahnhofstrasse, Zermatt’s charming main street lined with bakeries, cafés, and boutiques. We paused by the Vispa River, where the sound of rushing glacial waters filled the air.

The Majestic Matterhorn from the hotel room

The Glacier Express had lived up to its legend; an eight-hour journey that felt like gliding through a canvas in motion, each frame more breathtaking than the last. It was not merely a train ride; it was a slow, soulful passage through the very heart of the Swiss Alps.

 

Day 3: Zermatt – The Majesty of the Matterhorn

The morning light in Zermatt felt almost magical. When the first rays of the sun touched the peaks of the Alps, painting them in shades of gold and rose, we began with the ascent to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, the highest cable car station in Europe at 3,883 meters.

The first rays of sunlight on Matterhorn

The journey started through a series of cable cars from Zermatt Valley Station, connecting through Furi, Schwarzsee, and Trockener Steg, respectively. Each station brought us closer to the heart of the Alps. At Schwarzsee, we saw a small alpine lake reflecting the Matterhorn like a mirror, surrounded by lush meadows and wooden chalets. As we rose higher towards Trockener Steg, the landscape turned wild and dramatic; a world of ice, rock, and silence.

Matterhorn Glacier Paradise

The view from Schwarzsee

The last leg of the journey from Trockener Steg to Klein Matterhorn

Finally, the cable car carried us over glaciers and crevasses to the Klein Matterhorn summit. Stepping out at the summit felt like entering another world; a realm of eternal ice, sweeping silence, and infinite white. The Viewing Platform, perched high above the glacier, offered a breathtaking 360° panorama of the Alps, stretching across Switzerland, Italy, and France. Before us rose the majestic Matterhorn, its pyramid-like peak piercing the sky. The grandeur was humbling; the world felt vast, timeless, and utterly still.

Inside the summit complex, we visited the Cinema Lounge, a fascinating space where short films revealed the secrets of the Alps; the geology, the glaciers, and the spirit of mountaineering. Next, we descended into the ethereal Glacier Palace, an enchanting ice cave carved deep within the glacier itself, frozen artistry shaped by time and temperature. The shining tunnels and sculptures, illuminated in soft blue light, felt like wandering inside a crystalline wonderland. At one corner, we discovered the Breithorn Panoramic Window, a specially designed glass viewpoint framing the nearby Breithorn Peak, one of the most accessible 4,000-meter summits in the Alps.

The surreal Glacier Palace

Descending back into Zermatt by cable car felt like returning from another realm. We wandered along its cobblestone lanes, where wooden chalets leaned gracefully toward narrow paths, their balconies bright with geraniums. We explored the Matterhorn Museum – Zermatlantis, an underground museum that tells the story of Zermatt’s transformation from a remote mountain village to a world-renowned mountaineering destination.

Just nearby stood the Pfarrkirche St. Mauritius, Zermatt’s beautiful parish church. With its tall spire and peaceful churchyard, it offered a moment of quiet reflection amid the day’s adventures. We continued our leisurely stroll along the Vispa River, which runs through the heart of Zermatt. As evening descended, the Matterhorn stood silhouetted against the twilight; grand, eternal, and impossibly beautiful.

Along the Vispa River

The twilight view
 

Day 4: Geneva – The City of Peace and Reflection

The morning in Zermatt dawned quietly. After breakfast, we bid farewell to the mountain village that had felt like a dream and made our way to Zermatt Bahnhof for our next destination – Geneva, the cosmopolitan gem at the western tip of Switzerland.

Our train from Zermatt glided down through Visp, where we changed to an Intercity train bound for Geneva. The scenery slowly transitioned from alpine wilderness to the serene Swiss Riviera; snowy peaks giving way to rolling vineyards, turquoise lakes, and charming hillside towns. The journey along Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) was mesmerizing; vineyards terraced on steep slopes in Lavaux, quaint villages like Vevey and Montreux shimmering by the water, and distant views of the French Alps across the lake.

By late morning, we arrived at Geneva Cornavin Station, the city’s central hub. Our hotel, conveniently located nearby in the Cornavin–Les Pâquis area, offered a perfect base for exploring the city. After checking in and a quick refresh, our exploration began right outside the hotel at Place de Cornavin. At one corner stood the famous Hotel Cornavin, from where Prof. Calculus was abducted by Bordurian secret service agents led by Colonel Sponsz. The hotel, being a hot favourite among Tintin fans (like us), featured a dedicated exhibition space.

A long tram ride brought us to one of Geneva’s most inspiring landmarks – CERN, the European Organization for Nuclear Research. Standing before the Globe of Science and Innovation, a striking 27-meter-tall wooden sphere, we felt the pulse of modern discovery. Inside, the exhibitions revealed the story of the Large Hadron Collider (LHC), humanity’s boldest experiment to understand the universe’s origins.

The Globe of Science and Innovation at CERN

Returning to the city centre, we walked toward Place de Neuve, framed by grand façades and leafy boulevards. Here stood the elegant Musée Rath, Geneva’s oldest art museum, showcasing fine arts and temporary exhibitions that bridge Swiss and European creativity. Just beyond the square lay the Parc des Bastions, a peaceful green retreat, where locals gathered to test their wits over giant open-air chessboards. Within the park rose the imposing Reformation Wall, an homage to Geneva’s role in the Protestant Reformation. The statues of reformers John Calvin, William Farel, Theodore Beza, and John Knox stood carved into the old city walls.

The Reformation Wall at Place de Neuve

From Place de Neuve, cobbled streets led us uphill into Geneva’s Old Town (Vieille Ville), a labyrinth of history and quiet charm. Dominating the skyline was St. Peter’s Cathedral, a masterpiece of Gothic and Romanesque architecture. Inside, the simple yet powerful interiors echoed with centuries of worship, and in the basement, the archaeological site revealed remnants of earlier churches dating back to Roman times.

Nearby, we visited the Madeleine Church, one of Geneva’s oldest places of worship, known for its understated beauty. A short walk led us to Maison Tavel, Geneva’s oldest private residence turned museum, which beautifully captured the evolution of the city through maps, artifacts, and a fascinating 3D model of medieval Geneva. Further along stood the Old Arsenal, once a military storage site and now an open-air gallery displaying ancient cannons and vibrant frescoes depicting Geneva’s history.

The Old Arsenal

As the afternoon light mellowed, we strolled down Rue du Rhône, Geneva’s most prestigious shopping avenue. The display windows glittered with Swiss watches – Rolex, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin – each a symbol of the city’s devotion to craftsmanship. Near Jardin Anglais, we paused before the iconic Flower Clock (L’Horloge Fleurie); a living tribute to Swiss horology, where thousands of blooms form a perfectly timed masterpiece that changes with the seasons.

The lakeside promenade, or Promenade du Lac unfolded the magnificent Jet d’Eau, soaring 140 meters into the air, and dominating the scene. Swans glided gracefully over the turquoise waters, and sailboats swayed gently under the afternoon sun. A short walk brought us to the National Monument, where twin female figures personify Geneva’s historic joining with the Swiss Confederation in 1814, an elegant sculpture that mirrors the city’s spirit of unity and peace.

The Magnificent Jet d'Eau

Crossing the Pont du Mont-Blanc, we watched the light dance on the lake’s surface, with Mont Blanc’s snowy peak faintly visible on the horizon. On the opposite side, the ornate Brunswick Monument stood proudly amid a small garden; a Neo-Gothic mausoleum dedicated to the Duke of Brunswick, whose fortune helped shape modern Geneva.

The Brunswick Monument

As twilight descended, Lake Geneva glittered in hues of gold and silver. Lights from the bridges reflected in the calm water. The city exuded a quiet grace; cosmopolitan yet serene, modern yet timeless.

 

Day 5: Geneva’s Global Spirit and Interlaken – Where Lakes Embrace the Sky

Next day, we set out to explore one of the most defining aspects of the city – its global and humanitarian spirit. We began the morning with a tram ride to Carouge, Geneva’s bohemian quarter. Designed by Sardinian architects, Carouge felt more Mediterranean than Swiss; with pastel façades, wrought-iron balconies, and leafy courtyards. Its artisan boutiques, jazz cafés, and slow rhythm offered a charming contrast to Geneva’s urbane precision.

The Bohemian Quarter of Carouge

Another short tram ride led us to the Ariana Park district, where Geneva’s role as a centre for peace and diplomacy is most vividly embodied. The grand Palais des Nations, housing the United Nations Office at Geneva, stood tall and dignified amid manicured lawns and centuries-old cedar trees. The long rows of fluttering national flags leading to its façade is a visual symphony of unity in diversity.

The Palais des Nations

Just across the square stood the Broken Chair Monument, a powerful 12-meter-high wooden sculpture symbolizing opposition to landmines and the protection of human rights. It was impossible not to pause and reflect in front of it; a simple yet profound reminder of the city’s humanitarian heart.

The Broken Chair Monument

By late morning, we checked out from Geneva and boarded an Intercity train toward Interlaken. The journey via Lausanne, Spiez, and Thun offered one of the most picturesque rides in Switzerland. As the train curved along the northern shore of Lake Geneva, the vineyards of Lavaux unfolded once again.

Beyond Lausanne, the route followed the River Aare, climbing gently into the Bernese Oberland. By the time we reached Spiez, the scenery had transformed; emerald hills, grazing cows, and glacial peaks looming on the horizon. From here, the short ride to Interlaken felt like entering a mountain fairy tale.

We arrived in Interlaken Ost, the eastern station, by early afternoon and checked into Hotel Du Lac, a charming family-run establishment nestled right by the River Aare. From our window, the turquoise river flowed gently beneath wooden bridges, framed by the snowy summits of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau.

Interlaken, true to its name, sits gracefully between Lake Thun (Thunersee) and Lake Brienz (Brienzersee). The town is small yet vibrant, a perfect blend of alpine charm and adventure energy. After settling in, we began our exploration with a leisurely stroll along the Höheweg Promenade, Interlaken’s elegant main avenue. Lined with boutique shops, watch stores, and cozy cafés, it opened up breathtaking views of the Jungfrau in the backdrop.

At the Höhematte Park, paragliders painted the sky in bright colours as they floated down from the mountains; a scene both thrilling and tranquil. The surrounding flowerbeds and fountains added a touch of serenity to the lively atmosphere. A short walk brought us to Unterseen, the historic part of Interlaken across the river. With its narrow lanes, wooden chalets, and traditional restaurants, Unterseen offered a glimpse into the old alpine soul of the region. The fast-flowing Aare River wove through the town like a ribbon of turquoise silk.

Paragliding at Höhematte Park

In the late afternoon, we headed toward Interlaken West for a lakeside experience at Lake Thun. The calm waters reflected the golden hues of the setting sun, and the distant castles of Spiez and Oberhofen appeared like silhouettes from a fairy tale.

 

Day 6: Jungfraujoch – The Top of Europe

We started early from Interlaken Ost station for our long-awaited mountain odyssey. The first train (Berner Oberland Bahn) to Lauterbrunnen glided past emerald-green meadows, wooden chalets adorned with flowers, and glistening streams that caught the morning light. The hamlet is in a narrow valley cradled between sheer cliffs, with waterfalls tumbling from dizzying heights. The most famous of them all, the Staubbach Falls, cascaded delicately from a height of nearly 300 meters.

From Lauterbrunnen, we boarded the Wengernalpbahn, a charming cogwheel train that wound its way up the slopes toward Wengen, a scenic, car-free alpine village perched on a sunny terrace. As we ascended, the views grew wider; Lauterbrunnen Valley unfolded below us like a green velvet ribbon lined with waterfalls and wildflowers. Beyond Wengen, the train continued its steady climb to Kleine Scheidegg, a mountain pass at the foot of the mighty Eiger. The dramatic north face of the Eiger towered above us, its dark, sheer cliffs both intimidating and awe-inspiring.

The trio of EigerMönch, and Jungfrau

After a long wait at Kleine Scheidegg, and little bit of unexpected scuffling with some unruly crowd, we boarded the legendary Jungfrau Railway (Jungfraubahn), an engineering marvel that has been operating since 1912. The Jungfraubahn climbed steeply through tunnels carved inside the mountains, pausing briefly at Eigerwand and Eismeer, viewing windows cut directly into the rock face. We stepped out to gaze through them; immense walls of ice and snow gleamed just beyond the glass.

The Jungfraubahn heading toward Jungfraujoch - Top of Europe

Finally, after nearly two hours of breathtaking ascent, we arrived at Jungfraujoch Station, Europe’s highest railway station at 3,454 meters above sea level. Stepping outside, we were mesmerized by the dazzling expanse of white. The Aletsch Glacier, Europe’s longest glacier, framed by mountains upon mountains fading into the horizon. We explored the Sphinx Observation Deck, perched high above the glacier, where the view seemed to stretch to infinity. The cold wind was sharp, but the sight was enough to make you forget everything else.

The Aletsch Glacier stretching to infinity

Inside, we wandered through the Ice Palace, an enchanting maze of radiant tunnels and hand-carved ice sculptures, each piece catching the light in soft blues and silvers. Crystal-clear walls revealed ancient layers of ice frozen in time, while smooth archways and polished pathways made the entire experience feel surreal.

Inside the magical Ice Palace

The crystalline world of Ice Palace

By late afternoon, it was time to begin our descent, starting with the crowded Jungfraubahn. The journey back down was like a hysteresis loop; via Kleine Scheidegg, Grindelwald, and Lauterbrunnen. We experienced the smooth Alpine transition; snow giving way to green slopes, then forests, and finally the blooming meadows.

Back in Interlaken, the evening light painted the Jungfrau region in shades of gold. We wandered along the Aare River, where the turquoise water sparkled in the soft sunset glow. A few paragliders still drifted lazily above the town, perfectly matching the mood of the evening.

 

Sunset in the Jungfrau region

Day 7: Farewell to the Alps – Zurich Once More

Before departing Interlaken, we had one last treat awaiting us; a visit to Harder Kulm, the “Top of Interlaken.” We took the Harderbahn funicular, which whisked us up the steep slopes to Harder Kulm, perched at 1,322 meters above sea level. The short 10-minute ascent revealed stunning views of pine forests and Aare River below. At the top, the panorama unfolded like a living postcard; the twin lakes, Lake Thun and Lake Brienz, glistened like turquoise jewels, and the entire town of Interlaken lay peacefully between them.

The Harderbahn Funicular

Aare River and Hotel Du Lac from Harderbahn Funicular

We stepped onto the Two Lakes Bridge, a glass-floored viewing platform that juts dramatically into the open air. The sweeping view of snow-capped peaks, mirrored lakes, and the winding Aare River was breathtaking; a perfect finale to our alpine escapades.

Lake Thun from Harderkulm

Lake Brienz from Harderkulm

We boarded an ICE (Intercity Express) train to Zurich, a smooth and scenic ride that offered one last glimpse of Switzerland’s rolling countryside. The train glided past lush meadows, mirror-like lakes, and clusters of storybook villages, each one framed by distant peaks. After a few relaxing hours, we arrived at Zurich Hauptbahnhof. A short tram ride brought us back to the same hotel in Glattbrugg–Unterriet.

After checking in and a brief refresh, we were ready to dive into Zurich’s cultural and architectural wonders for our final afternoon in Switzerland. Our exploration began right where we started the first day – at Bahnhofplatz. From here, the world-famous Bahnhofstrasse stretched invitingly ahead; a grand boulevard lined with luxury boutiques, flagship stores, and elegant cafés. Known as one of the most exclusive shopping streets in the world, Bahnhofstrasse combines the sophistication of Zurich’s financial district with the charm of its café culture.

Crossing the Bahnhofbrücke again, we reached Limmatquai. The rhythm of the city softened here; cyclists gliding past, church bells echoing faintly across the rooftops. As we crossed into Altstadt (Old Town), the cobbled lanes of Niederdorfstrasse buzzed with life; street musicians played soft tunes, and boutiques sold everything from antiques to Swiss chocolates. Here stood Cabaret Voltaire, the birthplace of the Dada art movement – a symbol of Zurich’s deep artistic heritage.

Towards Limmatquai

Our walk led us to the twin towers of Grossmünster Kirche, an unmistakable landmark that dominates Zurich’s skyline. According to legend, it was founded by Charlemagne himself. Nearby, the Rathaus (Town Hall) stood proudly on the Limmat’s edge, a testament to Renaissance architecture and Zurich’s centuries-old civic pride. Across the Münsterbrücke, we reached the elegant Fraumünster Kirche, famed for its ethereal stained-glass windows by Marc Chagall.

Grossmünster Kirche and Rathaus

Just beside it, the Wasserkirche and Stadthaus stood quietly along the riverbank; their graceful Gothic and Baroque details whispering stories of Zurich’s medieval past. From here, we wandered toward Paradeplatz, the city’s financial heart, where the grand façades of Swiss banks reminded us that luxury and tradition coexist harmoniously here.

Further, we climbed up to Lindenhof, a peaceful hilltop park overlooking the Old Town. Locals sat on benches playing chess, while the view of the Limmat River, Grossmünster’s towers, and pastel rooftops bathed in golden light was mesmerizing. This was where Zurich was founded in Roman times, a place where history still lingers in the breeze.

The view of Altstadt from Lindenhof

Descending toward the river once again, we strolled along Schipfe, one of the city’s oldest quarters, once home to medieval boat builders and silk traders. Today, it’s a quiet haven of artisans’ workshops and riverside cafés. We continued our walk through the charming Augustiner Gasse, past the baroque beauty of St. Peter Kirche, whose clock face – the largest in Europe – watched protectively over the Old Town.

Finally, we wandered down Rennweg, one of Zurich’s oldest streets, now a lively blend of history, shops, and culture. t felt like a fitting finale to our Swiss journey, a perfect blend of elegance and warmth. As we headed back to the hotel, the city seemed to unwind with us; a calm, contented ending to a memorable week.

 

Day 8: Homeward Bound – Until We Meet Again, Switzerland

As we boarded the early morning direct fight to Mumbai from Zurich Airport, we reflected on what Switzerland had shown us in the last week. The picture-perfect train journeys, the towering peaks of Matterhorn and Jungfrau, the serenity of Interlaken, the elegance of Geneva and Zurich, all seemed to teach a quiet lesson about balance and grace.

Switzerland had not just been a destination. It had been an experience – timeless, pristine, and unforgettable.

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