Prague: The Heart of Bohemia

Day 1: The Majesty of Prague Castle and Hradčany

Our visit to Prague began with an early morning flight from Munich. After landing, we boarded a city bus that took us through the clean, tree-lined avenues to the youth hostel, located conveniently near Dejvická metro station. After checking in, we took the metro towards Malostranská, the nearest stop for the Hradčany district. The short ride brought us to the foot of one of Europe’s most magnificent historical complexes – Prague Castle.

As we walked uphill from Malostranská, the panorama of Prague Castle unfolded above us, a monumental fortress that had stood for more than a thousand years. Through the centuries, each ruler had left a distinct mark; Gothic spires, Renaissance halls, Baroque facades, and neoclassical wings all coexisted in layered harmony, forming a living record of Central Europe’s architectural evolution.

We entered through the massive gate, guarded by statues of battling giants, and stepped into the first courtyard; a wide ceremonial space lined with elegant buildings. Moving ahead, we reached the second courtyard, where the Chapel of the Holy Cross stood with its graceful arcades and classical proportions. Beside it, the Picture Gallery of Prague Castle displayed masterpieces from the collection of Emperor Rudolph II; paintings by Titian, Rubens, and Veronese among others.

At the heart of the complex rose the magnificent St. Vitus Cathedral, whose soaring Gothic spires dominated the skyline. Inside, the stained glass windows glowed in jewel-like colours. The Chapel of St. Wenceslas, decorated with gilded reliefs and precious stones, held the tomb of Bohemia’s patron saint. We climbed the Great Tower for a sweeping view over the city’s red roofs and the meandering Vltava River.

Next, we entered the Old Royal Palace, once the seat of Bohemian kings. The vast Vladislav Hall, with its ribbed vaulted ceiling, had witnessed royal banquets, coronations, and even early indoor tournaments. We descended via the Rider’s Staircase, wide enough for knights on horseback to pass, and explored the Ludvík Wing, once the royal residence. Close by, the Mihulka Powder Tower, a round bastion from the 15th century, reminded us of the Castle’s defensive past.

We continued to the Convent of St. George and its adjoining Basilica of St. George, one of the oldest surviving churches in Prague, notable for its Romanesque simplicity and twin red spires. Behind the main castle buildings, we walked into the Royal Garden, a tranquil Renaissance landscape with symmetrical lawns and ornamental fountains. The elegant Ball-Game Hall stood nearby, once used for aristocratic sports and festivities. Across the garden, the Summer Palace of Queen Anne, with its delicate arcades, was one of the finest Renaissance buildings north of the Alps. The nearby Riding School, now an exhibition space, completed this section of the complex.

Our next stop was the Golden Lane, a narrow alley lined with tiny, colourful houses that once housed castle guards, goldsmiths, and craftsmen. One of these, number 22, had once been occupied by Franz Kafka, who found inspiration in its solitude. At the end of the lane stood the White Tower and the Daliborka Tower, both used as prisons in earlier centuries.

Leaving the Castle grounds, we entered Hradčany’s noble quarter, home to grand palaces and embassies. The Lobkowicz Palace, now a private museum, displayed family collections of art and musical manuscripts. The Schwarzenberg Palace, with its striking sgraffito facade, and the Archbishop’s Palace, with its Rococo ornamentation, showcased contrasting architectural styles. The Sternberg Palace housed part of the National Gallery’s European art collection, while the Černín Palace, immense and austere, stood as one of the largest Baroque palaces in Prague.

Across the square was the Loreta, a Baroque pilgrimage complex famous for its carillon of bells and the replica of the Santa Casa from Italy. The nearby Capuchin Monastery added a sense of quiet devotion. A short walk took us to the Strahov Monastery, known for its Strahov Library, one of the most beautiful in Europe. The Theological and Philosophical Halls contained ancient globes, illuminated manuscripts, and ceiling frescoes depicting the pursuit of wisdom.

Descending from the monastery, we strolled down Nerudova Street, a charming Baroque thoroughfare lined with old merchant houses marked by sculpted emblems instead of numbers, such as the Golden Key and the Red Eagle. Among the grand residences were the Thun-Hohenstein Palace, now the Italian Embassy, and the Morzin Palace, recognizable by its statues of chained Moors.

We reached the Lesser Town Square (Malostranské náměstí), dominated by the magnificent St. Nicholas Church, one of the finest Baroque churches in Central Europe. Around the square stood elegant palaces like the Sternberg, Smiřický, and Kaiserstain, each with a distinctive story. The nearby Wallenstein Palace, now the seat of the Czech Senate, boasted vast gardens and decorative sculptures.

Our route then led past the Church of St. Thomas, the terraced Vrtba Garden, and the Church of Our Lady Victorious, known worldwide for the statue of the Infant Jesus of Prague. Passing through Maltese Square, we crossed over to Kampa Island, a peaceful green space by the river that offered fine views of the Charles Bridge.

The Charles Bridge, completed in the 15th century, connected the Lesser Town with the Old Town. Built of sandstone blocks and supported by sixteen arches, it was lined with thirty statues and sculptural groups depicting saints and historical figures. From the centre of the bridge, the view was unforgettable, Prague Castle stood proudly on one side, while the towers of the Old Town framed the opposite bank. Musicians, painters, and street performers added life to the historic scene.

Before returning, we walked through Vojan Park, one of the oldest public gardens in the city, tranquil and shaded, with small chapels dedicated to Elijah and St. Theresa. As evening fell, we boarded a tram back to Dejvická, completing a day filled with history and grandeur.

 

Day 2: Old Town, Jewish Quarter, and New Town

We began our second day by taking the metro to Staroměstská station, right in the heart of Prague’s Old Town. From there, we entered Josefov, the Jewish Quarter, a district steeped in history and resilience. The Old Jewish Cemetery, with its densely packed gravestones dating from the 15th to the 18th century, told a powerful story of endurance. Nearby, the Pinkas Synagogue served as a Holocaust memorial, with thousands of names of victims inscribed on its walls. The Klausen Synagogue presented exhibits on Jewish traditions, while the Old-New Synagogue, built in the 13th century, remained one of Europe’s oldest active synagogues. We also visited the High Synagogue, the Jewish Town Hall with its Hebrew clock running counterclockwise, and the richly decorated Spanish Synagogue, known for its Moorish interior design. The nearby Church of the Holy Ghost stood as a Christian counterpart, while the Convent of St. Agnes, an early Gothic structure, reflected Prague’s medieval religious life.

Crossing toward the river, we reached the Rudolfinum, a neo-Renaissance concert hall that now serves as the home of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra. From there, we entered the maze of the Old Town, where every corner held a fragment of history. The Powder Tower, once a city gate and gunpowder store, marked the traditional start of royal coronation processions. Beside it stood the Municipal House, a masterpiece of Art Nouveau architecture.

We wandered through streets lined with historic houses bearing whimsical names, At the Three Kings, At the White Lion, At the Black Sun, and the House of the Black Madonna, an early example of Czech Cubism. The Church of St. James, with its richly baroque interior, and the Estates Theatre, where Mozart premiered Don Giovanni, stood nearby. The Carolinum, part of Charles University, reminded us of Prague’s long academic heritage.

Soon, we reached the Old Town Square, which was bustling with activity as the annual Prague Marathon was underway. Runners filled the historic square, circling past landmarks like the Church of Our Lady before Týn, the elegant Kinský Palace, and the Jan Hus Monument. The Old Town Hall, with its world-famous Astronomical Clock, drew crowds as the twelve apostles appeared in their hourly procession.

We continued toward Mariánské Square, where the Clam-Gallas Palace displayed fine Baroque details. Along Karlova Street, we passed shops and courtyards before reaching the Clementinum, a vast Jesuit complex with libraries and an astronomical tower. At Knights of the Cross Square, we saw the Old Town bridge tower and looked once again toward the Charles Bridge, this time from the opposite side.

Following the tram lines along the river, we reached the Dancing House, an icon of modern architecture nicknamed “Fred and Ginger” for its fluid, dynamic curves. From there, we walked into Wenceslas Square, the symbolic heart of Prague’s New Town. Once a medieval horse market, it had become the stage for major historical events. The National Museum crowned its upper end, overlooking the wide boulevard.

Nearby, the Franciscan Garden offered a quiet refuge amid the bustle. We visited the Church of Our Lady of the Snows, the Church of St. Ignatius, and the New Town Hall, each representing a different period of the city’s growth. Farther south stood the Emause Monastery, and the Church of St. Cyril and Methodius, associated with wartime resistance. Our walk ended at the Faust House, a historic residence linked to many legends.

As evening approached, we took the metro back to Dejvická and returned to our hostel, our feet tired but our minds filled with images of centuries layered together in perfect continuity.

 

Day 3: Farewell and Return

The next morning, as we boarded the return flight to Munich, we watched Prague’s skyline fade; the towers of St. Vitus, the domes of St. Nicholas, and the bridge statues standing silently over the Vltava. Prague had presented itself as a living museum of European civilization, where Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and modern eras merged effortlessly.