Luxembourg: The Grand Duchy Diaries

Our journey to Luxembourg City began before sunrise aboard the ICE train from Munich. The route involved changing trains at Stuttgart, Koblenz, and Trier before crossing into Luxembourg. The stretch along the Rhine River valley between Stuttgart and Koblenz was a scenic highlight, rolling vineyards, quaint riverside towns, and hilltops crowned with medieval castles overlooking the waters. The Rhine, winding gracefully through steep cliffs, offered views of fortresses like Marksburg and Stolzenfels, silent witnesses to centuries of European history.

After arriving at Luxembourg City in late morning, we checked into the youth hostel located conveniently near the Alzette River, freshened up, and set out on foot to explore the historic heart of the city, a blend of ancient fortifications and modern vibrance.

Our walking tour began with the Old Fortifications that once made Luxembourg known as the “Gibraltar of the North.” The high defensive walls and bastions rising from the cliffs showcased the city’s former strategic strength. From there, we climbed towards the Holy Ghost Citadel, originally built in the 17th century, offering panoramic views of the Petrusse Valley below. The nearby Spanish Turrets, remnants from the Spanish occupation period, stood as picturesque watchtowers guarding the valley.

Continuing further, we reached the famous Casemates, an underground maze of tunnels and galleries carved deep into the rock. The Bock Casemates, dating back to the 18th century, were especially fascinating. These subterranean passages once housed soldiers, horses, and ammunition, forming an integral part of the city’s defence system. Emerging from the tunnels, we stood atop the Bock Promontory, a rocky outcrop offering one of the finest views in Luxembourg. From there, the Alzette River curved gracefully below, and the pastel-toned houses of Grund spread out along the valley floor.

Walking along the ridge brought us to the Beck Bastion and the scenic Corniche, often called “Europe’s most beautiful balcony.” From this elevated walkway, we looked over the lower town of Grund, its stone bridges, and the green valley beneath, a view that perfectly captured Luxembourg’s multi-level cityscape.

Crossing the Pfaffenthal district, we ascended towards Fort Thüngen, also known as the “Three Acorns.” The restored fortress, now part of the Museum of Modern Art complex, represented Luxembourg’s continuous evolution, from a fortress city to a cultural capital.

Returning to the upper town, we wandered through the cobbled streets of the Old Town, where elegant façades, government buildings, and quiet courtyards gave a sense of timelessness. The Grand Ducal Palace stood proudly with its ornate Renaissance-style architecture, the official residence of the Grand Duke of Luxembourg and an emblem of the nation’s monarchy. Nearby, the Place d’Armes buzzed with life, surrounded by open-air cafés and framed by classic buildings. A short walk brought us to William Square (Place Guillaume II), marked by the equestrian statue of Grand Duke William II and the Town Hall, the civic heart of the city.

We then continued to the Gëlle Fra Monument, a golden statue symbolizing freedom and the bravery of Luxembourg’s soldiers. Standing tall against the sky at Place de la Constitution, it offered commanding views over the Petrusse Valley. The adjacent Cathédrale Notre-Dame, with its striking Gothic spires and intricate stained glass windows, added a solemn beauty to the scene.

Crossing towards the Adolphe Bridge, we admired the sweeping stone arches spanning the deep valley, an engineering marvel and one of the city’s most recognized landmarks. From the bridge, the skyline of Luxembourg appeared layered, ancient walls, modern glass structures, and lush green valleys intertwined in perfect harmony. Nearby, the Viaduct (Passerelle), an older stone bridge, echoed the same grandeur, connecting the upper and lower parts of the city with graceful symmetry.

As dusk settled, the city’s lights began to reflect softly on the river, casting a golden hue over the fortifications and bridges. Our walk through Luxembourg had felt like traversing different centuries, from medieval defences to contemporary elegance, all compactly woven within this remarkable capital built on cliffs and valleys.