Gateway to Tetons

Disclaimer:

All the humor about wildlife should not be taken literally. We hate disturbing wildlife and hate those doing it.

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…..Contd from previous post…..

With heavy heart and contented mind, we continued our exploration through John D Rockefeller Memorial Pkwy towards Grand Teton National Park. At a particular point on the road, the snowy, toothy Teton Range exploded into view, and our fingers started itching for the shutter (of camera, off course).

The park is named after Grand Teton, the tallest mountain in the Teton Range located at the northeastern edge of the Rockies. The jagged snow-capped peaks and their reflections on pristine alpine lakes are the principal features of the park. Add to that vast wilderness and abundant wildlife; you get a heavenly feeling all through your stay.



Heaven on Earth



Just outside the park boundaries we received a warm welcome from a black bear, indicative of better times inside. True to our expectations, we were blessed by countless interactions with permanent residents of the park, namely bears, elks, bisons, mooses, deers and antelopes. 



The gatekeeper of park boundaries: Ursus americanus

The mesmerizing beauty of the shimmering waters of Jackson Lake was enhanced by its awesome backdrop, a cutout of a portion of the Teton Range. After drenching ourselves in the bedazzling beauty of the landscape, we went on to explore the Snake River along the scenic Grassy Lake Road. Being a dirt road, this is not so popular among tourists, but offers serene sunset view along the Glade Creek. 



Sunset along Snake River

Day 6

Next morning, the other popular scenic drive around the south of Jackson Lake led us to the top of Signal Mountain, which tenders 360° panoramic views of the four mountain ranges: the Tetons, Gros Ventres, Wind Rivers, and Absarokas. The vast green stretched for miles below was a variation from our everyday views, something that makes a permanent mark in our minds.

The best place to watch wildlife in the morning is Oxbow Bend. The river otters, bald eagles and American white pelicans hunt for fish at the slow-moving waters of Snake River around this area. A herd of elks can be seen quite often grazing in the open aspen groves. In the afternoon, Blacktail Ponds Overlook is the best bet to watch a number of mooses and bisons. We also observed a grizzly far away walking in the shallow waters of Snake River. Pronghorn antelopes were abundant in the nearby Antelope Flats Road and the Mormon Row dirt road, oblivious of the gawking human beings.

The curious Antilocapra americana

A family of Bison bison

After we have covered almost everything in the park, we drove along the Moose-Wilson Road towards Teton Village. The village is just outside the park boundaries and offers a spectacular ride on an aerial tramway, which took us to the summit of Rendezvous Peak. The ride to the top also offered us a glimpse of a moose wandering on the slopes of the mountain. The view from the top, to say it mildly, was captivating.



Female Alces alces near Moose-Wilson Road



From the summit of Rendezvous Peak (10927 ft)

We had planned to stay the night at the Climber’s Ranch maintained by American Alpine Club. At the entrance of the ranch, we were overwhelmed by the guard of honor given to us by a group of pronghorns and white-tailed deers. The entry to log cabins from the gate of the ranch was a feast for the eyes with the Teton Range on one side and a small stream of water flowing by. The perfect calmness and tranquility of the atmosphere enhanced nature’s glory even more. As darkness seeped into foothills of the mountains, we were awestruck by the act that was exposed in front of our eyes. It seemed as if a curtain was raised and new act was beginning to play. With absolute pitch darkness everywhere, the only thing you can do is sit on the porch and look up. The sky above was decked in its own way and the infinite number of glittering stars of various sizes studded on it just gave a new dimension to the whole view. The soft sound of the faint breeze that rustled the leaves was the only sound that could be heard. Our fellow campers had arranged for a camp fire. Fighting the immense attraction to spend some more time outside, we decided to call it a day as we had a long day ahead the next day.


Guard of Honor from Odocoileus hemionus


Day 7

Next morning, we started our long drive towards Salt Lake City via the picturesque town of Jackson Hole. A short detour to Fossil Butte National Monument added a quiet but fascinating layer to the day. The landscape may seem unassuming at first, but it holds remnants of an ancient lake, preserving delicate fossils from millions of years ago. The museum exhibits brought this ancient world to life, and we even picked up a small memento, an actual fossil, as a tangible reminder of that period. Further along, the drive toward Rubey Point turned out to be unexpectedly rewarding. The road was calm and largely empty, with expansive views unfolding gradually as we climbed. From there, the long drive to SLC Airport marked the conclusion of our travelling spree.

The First National Park

Disclaimer:

All the humor about wildlife should not be taken literally. We hate disturbing wildlife and hate those doing it.
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The explorers of this universe can be categorized into two types: those who have already visited Yellowstone, and those who WILL visit there.

If you live in the States and have the option of making one last trip in the rest of your life, what would be your choice? The only place that should come up in your mind is Yellowstone National Park. Not Grand Canyon, not Niagara Falls, not Rockies, only Yellowstone. The “first national park” in the world is truly an incredible place to perceive and should be in everyone’s bucket list.

Approximately 96% of the park area is located in the state of Wyoming; the remaining 4% lies in Montana and Idaho. The Continental Divide of North America runs diagonally through the southwestern part of the park. The park sits on the Yellowstone Plateau, surrounded by mountain ranges of the Middle Rocky Mountains, at an average elevation of 8000 ft above sea level. The Yellowstone Caldera is the largest volcanic system in North America. Its formation was brought about by extremely large eruptions, the last of which occurred six hundred thousand years ago. The park was named after one of its major attractions, the Yellowstone River. The “Yellowstone” term was coined from the local Minnetaree language meaning “Rock Yellow River”. The source of the Native American name is not clear.

The greater Yellowstone ecosystem supports a wide variety of wildlife, such as grizzly bear, American black bear, bison, wolf, mountain lion, elk, mule deer, moose, bighorn sheep, whitetail deer, mountain goat and pronghorn antelope. They are so abundant in number that you need not go looking for them. They will find you and show tremendous enthusiasm for photo sessions. Their attitude towards human beings ranges from very friendly to very egotistic. This rich combination of geological features, quaint landscape and profuse wildlife is what makes Yellowstone a unique destination for people of all ages.

Since Grand Teton National Park is only 8 miles south of Yellowstone, a wise decision is to encompass both the parks in a single trip. Jackson Hole is the nearest airport to GTNP, but it’s difficult to find cheap flight deals to there. The most optimum way to reach Yellowstone is to drive 250 miles from Salt Lake City international airport. We saw ample flight deals to SLC when we lived in a small college town in Texas. But our dear bosses were so concerned about our careers that, not only they engaged us in a busy research schedule, but also did not grant few days leave. Tired with the bosses and frustrated of the Texas heat, we moved to the northeast for better career and climate. Then we realized how difficult it was to find cheap flight deals from Boston to SLC. So the idea gradually drifted to the backseat.

While the return to Swades was looming over the horizon, we made a desperate attempt to visit Yellowstone in the summer of 2010. Managing a week’s holiday around the 4th of July weekend was not that difficult, thanks to our new advisors. This particular time we didn’t care about flight expenses.

Day 1

Though the flight ticket was not that cheap, still we had to fly from Providence, which is about 70 miles south of Boston. All the northeast airports have unreasonably high parking fees; so we had to opt for public transport to reach PVD. The flight to SLC via Chicago was long and boring, and arrived pretty late in the night. A good old friend generously offered to accommodate us for the night along with refreshments, so that we could get a shut eye.

Day 2

Next morning, the drive to Yellowstone was eventful. It was pretty smooth until Pocatello through I-15. The real pain started after switching to SH-20 at Idaho Falls. Due to “n” number of roadwork around the Targhee National Forest and inside the park boundaries, the total travel to Canyon Village took 8 hours instead of 5. Some of the roadblocks near Madison Junction were unexpectedly made by the grazing bisons, oblivious about the suffering of their fellow mammalian species, namely the Homo sapiens. One of them, in his natural course, almost hit our rental car but missed by a whisker. We vented our anger on the stubborn guy by not taking his photo, which we started regretting moments after we left the spot. However, this did not last very long.

Bison bison - The self proclaimed traffic police of Yellowstone

We have tried out camping in all the national parks in the States, and this was no exception. Fortunately we could reserve a campsite in Canyon Village just one month before our trip. Those who have visited Yellowstone in summer would know how difficult it is to find an accommodation inside the park. Though the town of West Yellowstone offers some reasonable roofs over your head, staying inside the park was our first priority. Our expectation was to meet a grizzly bear or two near the campsite, but luck is not what we had. Our fellow travelers were smart enough to use closed containers to lock their food, the smell of which attracts the Ursus species.

After checking in at the campground, we went to explore the surrounding Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. We bumped into a couple of bisons just outside the Canyon Village, who were taking afternoon nap in a royal fashion. By this time we got so frustrated by their gigantic egos that we stopped requesting them for shooting (with camera, off course).

The Inspiration Point is located at the far end of the road where the canyon wall juts out into the canyon allowing spectacular views of Yellowstone River both upstream and down. Along the road, the Lookout Point and Grandview Point are two other popular vista points which offer further breathtaking views of the river. The Red Rock Point is near a tall reddish pinnacle of rock below the Lower Falls, which got its red pigmentation from iron oxide.

Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

Among the two famous waterfalls on the Yellowstone River, the Upper Falls stands at a higher elevation, but is significantly shorter (109 ft) than its downstream neighbor. The Lower Falls is the tallest waterfall in the park at 308 ft. Though there are designated vista points for both the falls, Uncle Tom’s Trail offers an up close and personal interaction with the Lower Falls. Since this trail is very strenuous and it was almost getting dark, we postponed our plans for hiking and continued driving towards the Artist Point. The most picturesque views of the canyon can be best witnessed from this point. On the way we met a smart and friendly elk, who happily agreed to pose with us for a snap. We really liked the chap’s sportsman spirit, and encourage everyone to be like him. Because of him, the day ended on a very high note.

Our ever-smiling friend Cervus canadensis

Day 3

The next day started with driving along the Dunraven Pass. Bear sightings are very common in this area, and our Ursus friends were benevolent enough to ensure that we were not disheartened. The first one was a grizzly wandering with her two cubs far along the slopes of Mount Washburn. We had to use a 70–300 mm zoom lens to watch them, but the photos were still unclear. The second one was a black bear roaming pretty close to the road, but the jamboree of too many curious human beings trying to close in pushed our beloved friend further into the woods. Frustrated with the insensible tourists, we continued driving through the Tower-Roosevelt junction.



The rapids of Yellowstone River near Tower-Roosevelt Junction



Tower Falls, created by 132 ft drop of the Tower Creek, is the most discernable natural feature in this district. Ignoring the protests of our aging bones, we walked down the trail to the bed of Yellowstone River. Along this region of the river, a group of thermal springs signals the downstream end of the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. The steep, columnar basalt cliffs on the opposite side of the river are remnants of an ancient lava flow, opening a window into the past volcanic forces that shaped much of the Yellowstone landscape.

Yellowstone being a massive caldera of a volcano, has one of the world's largest petrified forests, trees which were buried by ash and soil and transformed from wood to minerals. The Petrified Tree, located near the Lost Lake trailhead, is an excellent example of an ancient redwood, similar to the many found on Specimen Ridge. Except for some isolated sightings of quite a few bison families at Blacktail Deer Plateau, our drive towards Mammoth Hot Springs was uneventful.



Petrified Tree



The key ingredients essential for the formation of the terraces of Mammoth Hot Springs are heat, water, limestone, and a rock fracture system through which hot water can percolate to the earth's surface. Throughout the year, the terrace features change rapidly in appearance. The important springs at the Lower Terraces include Opal Spring, Palette Spring, Minerva Spring, Cleopatra Spring, Canary Spring, to name a few. The springs are famous not only for a wide range of dazzling colors but also for ornate travertine formations. The Canary Spring, highly recommended by my friend at SLC, is famous for its brilliant orange yellow color due to sulfur dependent filamentous bacteria. A 37 ft hot spring cone known as the Liberty Cap marks the northern portion of the Mammoth Hot Springs. From the Overlook, one can have a great view of the Main Terrace and the surrounding mountains.



Canary Spring at Mammoth Hot Springs 

The Upper Terraces can be portrayed by Prospect Terrace, New Highland Terrace, Orange Spring Mound, Bath Lake, White Elephant Back Terrace and Angel Terrace. The Orange Spring Mound is distinctly different from the nearby terrace formations in terms of the bright orange streaks of color contrived by bacteria and algae. Whilst roaming around the Upper Terraces, we caught glimpses of a bunny and as well as a mountain snake, who despite being venomous, concealed him/herself hurriedly from the human eyes. Dejected by his/her unfriendly behavior we quietly had our lunch along with an elk family near Fort Yellowstone. So different were our food habits that we could not share anything with them.

During the drive towards Norris Geyser Basin, we had reasons to cheer up again. A couple of grizzlies were basking in the afternoon sun exceptionally close to the road. Known amongst friends to be shutterbugs, we could not help but capture these intimate moments. Since we did not wish to perturb their romantic mood, we silently left them alone. Unbelievable but it was third bear sighting of the day, and not the last.

Our beloved friend Ursus arctos

Norris Geyser Basin is not only the hottest but also an everchanging thermal area in Yellowstone. This is the location of the tallest active geyser, colorful hot springs, fumaroles and microscopic life in one of the most extreme environments on earth. Two loop trails, which begin from the Norris Museum, provide a safe route to wander around the area. Porcelain Basin has an open terrain with hundreds of densely packed geothermal features, namely Black Growler Steam Vent, Ledge Geyser (2nd  largest geyser in Norris), Congress Pool, Blue Geyser, Whirligig Geyser, Whale's Mouth, Crackling Lake, to mention just a few. Although most of these thermal features contain highly acidic water, several living organisms like lime-green Cyanidium thrive even in these extreme environments. From a distance these bacteria look like rusty, iron-rich mineral deposits. These and other microscopic life forms are direct links to the emergence of life on earth billions of years ago.

Porcelain Basin at Norris Geyser Basin

In contrast to Porcelain Basin, the Back Basin is forested and its features are more scattered and isolated. It is famous for the world's tallest active geyser, the Steamboat Geyser. At its best, Steamboat can erupt to a whopping 300 ft, showering viewers with its mineral-rich waters. Being unlucky as usual we had to be content with a less than 50 ft show. Other crucial features in the vicinity include Emerald Spring, Cistern Spring, Echinus Geyser, Green Dragon Spring, Porkchop Geyser and Minute Geyser.

The great diversity of thermal features at Norris Geyser Basin is fundamentally due to its location at the intersection of several commotions in the earth's crust. A major rock fracture runs south from the Mammoth Hot Springs area toward Norris, which crosses another eastbound fault from Hebgen Lake to Norris. Both of these cracks in the earth's surface intersect with fractures radiating from the central Yellowstone caldera, which creates a unique landscape on this continent.

The whole experience at Norris left us exhausted. The attraction of Hayden Valley was pricking us from inside, so we spent little time at Mud Volcano and Sulphur Cauldron areas. Hayden Valley is probably the best place in the park to view diverse wildlife. When we parked our car on the roadside amidst a huge number of tourists, a live drama between a mighty grizzly, her two cubs, a lone wolf and two opportunist coyotes was already going on. Apparently the lone wolf hunted down a poor elk the day before injuring himself in the process, and the mighty grizzly had managed to overpower him to take possession of the carcass. When the wolf rightfully wanted to retrieve his prey, he was badly slapped by the mother bear who was already feeding her two cubs. Hurt both mentally and physically, the lone wolf limped towards the bank of the creek, where the two opportunist coyotes were patiently waiting for the mother bear to leave the place. Just a few yards away, some bisons with majestic personality were leisurely enjoying the last rays of day’s sunlight; little did they care about the excitement going on beside them. The unfolding of this drama left us so spellbound that we were looking for analogies to the great Indian politics. Though we felt sorry for the lone wolf and the dead elk, we did not forget to record the whole act, hoping to enlighten my politically aware friends. As dusk was setting in, the wise guys of the park advised us to return to our respective shelters.

Old jungle proverb, "Don't mess with the Grizzly"

Day 4

We intended to start our day at the Upper Geyser Basin, which has the largest concentration of geysers in this part of the world. The visitor center made a comprehensive list of the prominent geysers with their eruption timings, which facilitate visitors to plan accordingly. At the south section, Old Faithful Geyser is the most popular one due to its consistency of eruption at regular intervals. The average interval between two eruptions is about 90 minutes; a single eruption lasts between 2 and 5 minutes, and reaches a height of more than 100 ft. We reached there just in time to grab a convenient seat at the observation deck.

The grand show of Old Faithful Geyser

After the grand show of Old Faithful was over, a short climb to the Observation Point allowed us to experience spectacular views of the Upper Geyser Basin. The other geysers in this area known for violent and tall eruptions include Giantess Geyser, Plume Geyser, Beehive Geyser, Grand Geyser, and Castle Geyser at the south section; and Giant Geyser, Splendid Geyser, Daisy Geyser, and Riverside Geyser at the north section. The timing of Daisy Geyser was comfortable for us, so we could manage to watch its eruption to a height of about 70 ft. The one geyser which surprised us most is Beehive. Its untimely eruption of about 130 ft height was a viewer’s delight. Situated on the bank of the Firehole River, Riverside Geyser is probably the most picturesque geyser in the park.

Desert flower at Upper Geyser Basin

There are a number of geysers whose eruptions are short in height, but are more frequent and equally magnificent like their taller siblings. These comprise of Solitary Geyser, Lion Group of Geysers (connected underground), Sawmill Geyser, Comet Geyser, Grotto Geyser, and the twin Fan & Mortar Geysers. Along with the geysers, the region is complemented with numerous pools and hot springs having remarkably beautiful colors. The most prominent of these are Doublet Pool, Heart Spring, Crested Pool, Beauty Pool, Chromatic Spring and Punch Bowl Spring. The names are self-explanatory, so we would not waste time describing them. The Morning Glory Pool at the extreme end of the north section is a favorite destination for the park visitors owing to striking resemblance with its namesake flower. All the pools and springs are characterized by orange and yellow bacteria at the periphery and crystal blue water at the center.

Morning Glory Pool

Three miles north of Old Faithful lays the Biscuit Basin, named so for unusual biscuit-like deposits surrounding the Sapphire Pool. Other notable colorful features in this basin are Jewel Geyser, Shell Geyser, Avoca Spring and Mustard Spring. The Firehole River running through the Upper, Midway and Lower Geyser Basins derived its name from the steam witnessed by early explorers in this region.

Firehole River near Black Sand Basin

The hydrothermal activity at the Lower Geyser Basin can be viewed along the boardwalk trail at Fountain Paint Pots and along the three mile scenic Firehole Lake Drive. At the middle of this one-way drive we were fortunate enough to witness the rare eruption of Great Fountain Geyser to about 100 ft height. The Firehole Canyon Drive is another one-way scenic drive following the Firehole River upstream from Madison Junction to Firehole Falls, which stands at around 40 ft.

The Midway Geyser Basin is relatively small compared to its Upper counterpart, but holds enormous wonders for the guests. The Excelsior Geyser has a gaping crater of dimensions 200 ft x 300 ft with a steady release of water into the Firehole River. The Grand Prismatic Spring is the largest hot spring in the park, with a diameter of 370 ft and depth of 121 ft. Both the features should be viewed from the sky - which is next to impossible - to enjoy their bursting beauty. The Grand Prismatic Spring deserves a dedicated travel review, and we would not dare to describe its beauty here in few words.

Grand Prismatic Spring

By this time, the temperature, humidity and interaction with the innumerable geysers and hot springs drained us out. We gathered the last bit of our strength to explore the area surrounding Yellowstone Lake. At an elevation of about 7700 ft, it is the largest high altitude lake in the continent. The Fishing Bridge at the Lake Village is a historically popular place to observe fish, but has been closed for fishing since 1973. From the Lake Village, a 9 mile drive towards the East Entrance took us to Lake Butte. Standing at about 8300 ft above the sea level, this vista point offers stunning panoramic views of the lake with Teton Range at the backdrop. During the return to Canyon Campground via Hayden Valley we had expected some more live drama, but destiny had written something else. The remains of the poor elk had vanished, and gone with it were the predators. Except for a few herbivorous bisons and a large number of omnivorous human beings, there was nothing interesting to watch in this area.

Yellowstone Lake from Lake Butte

Day 5

This was supposed to be our last day at Yellowstone. So the plan was to cover the few remaining areas starting with Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River. As mentioned before, Uncle Tom’s Trail presents an intimate interactive session with the falls. The trail is very strenuous and drops 500 ft in a series of more than 300 stairs and paved inclines inside the canyon. Our timing to reach the bottom of the trail was so designed that the rainbow created by dispersion of sunlight through the water droplets could be envisaged. Climbing up the trail was backbreaking, but we considered that as a preparation for the upcoming Grand Canyon experience.

The rainbow at the bottom of Uncle Tom's Trail

The next destination was the West Thumb of Yellowstone Lake, which contains the West Thumb Geyser Basin. The basin has several hot springs and pools; the famous amongst them are Abyss Pool, Black Pool, Thumb Paintpots, Lakeside Spring, Big Cone and Fishing Cone. Fishing Cone is a hot spring located inside the waters of the lake, and erupts frequently to a height of 10 ft. Without this experience, the visit to Yellowstone would be incomplete.

A friendly encounter with an elk family at the entrance of West Thumb concluded our stay at Yellowstone National Park. Being exceedingly cordial they were unwilling to leave us, but finally bid us farewell with moist eyes. With heavy heart and contented mind, we continued our exploration through John D Rockefeller Memorial Pkwy towards Grand Teton National Park.

…..to be contd…..

Green Mountain National Forest – One Beloved Escape from Boston

Green Mountain National Forest in Vermont had always been one of our favorite destinations, largely because of its proximity to Boston. Within a few hours of driving from Cambridge, MA, the urban rhythm faded into rolling hills, forested ridgelines, historic towns, and some of the most scenic highways in New England. We experienced this region several times, both in the height of summer and during peak fall foliage, and each journey revealed a completely different character of Vermont.

 

Summer:

We started early from Cambridge, heading northwest. The familiar interstates gradually gave way to quieter state highways, and as we crossed into Vermont, the landscape softened into green valleys framed by the Green Mountains. The drive itself felt like a transition; from metropolitan New England to a slower, more contemplative world.

Our first major highlight was the Molly Stark Byway, one of Vermont’s most celebrated scenic drives. The road traced gentle curves through dense forests, river valleys, and historic towns. Named after the wife of Revolutionary War General John Stark, the byway carried a sense of history along with its beauty.

We passed through Brattleboro, a vibrant river town near the Connecticut River, where brick buildings, small bridges, and tree-lined streets reflected Vermont’s classic townscape. Continuing northward, the road narrowed and became more intimate as it led us through Townshend, surrounded by open meadows and wooded hills. Summer greenery was at its peak, and the sunlight filtered through layers of leaves, creating a constantly shifting palette of greens.

From the western side of Vermont, we climbed toward Mount Equinox, one of the highest peaks in the Taconic Range. The Skyline Drive, a toll road winding steeply to the summit, was both dramatic and rewarding. As we ascended, the road revealed sweeping views of the surrounding valleys, the Green Mountains to the east, and the Adirondacks rising faintly to the west.

At the top, we stopped at the Monastery Overlook, where the Carthusian monastery stood quietly against the vast backdrop of mountains. From Lookout Rock, the view felt almost endless; layers of ridges fading into the horizon under a wide summer sky. The air was cooler at the summit, and the silence added to the sense of elevation and isolation.

Descending from the mountains, we reached Proctor, a town shaped by Vermont’s marble industry. Here, Wilson Castle stood unexpectedly dramatic against the rolling countryside. With its towers, turrets, and eclectic architecture, the castle looked more European than New England, making it one of the most unusual landmarks of the trip.

By late afternoon, we arrived at Lake Dunmore, nestled between forested slopes near the southern edge of the Green Mountain National Forest. The calm water reflected the surrounding trees, and the atmosphere felt peaceful and unhurried.

We spent the evening camping at Kampersville Campground, where the quiet of the woods replaced the noise of highways. As daylight faded, the forest settled into stillness, marking a perfect end to the first summer day.

The next morning, we followed the Lake Champlain Byway, another one of Vermont’s most scenic routes. The road ran close to the shoreline, with constant views of Lake Champlain stretching toward the Adirondack Mountains in New York.

We passed through Middlebury, a classic Vermont college town with historic architecture and open green spaces. The drive toward Burlington felt expansive, with farmland on one side and the vast lake on the other.

Burlington blended the energy of a small city with the calm presence of water and mountains. At Lake Champlain, we joined the Spirit of Ethan Allen Boat Tour, which offered a unique perspective of the region from the water. The cruise highlighted historic islands, distant mountain ranges, and iconic landmarks such as Windmill Point Light, Isle La Motte Light, and the striking rock formations known as the Indian Heads.

Back on land, we explored Waterfront Park, where walking paths ran alongside the lake, offering uninterrupted views of the water and sky. Nearby, Church Street Marketplace provided a lively pedestrian area, framed by historic buildings and street activity, making it a pleasant place to slow down and observe local life.

Heading east, we reached Stowe, surrounded by some of Vermont’s most iconic mountain scenery. Mount Mansfield, the highest peak in the state, dominated the skyline. The drive through Underhill State Park took us deeper into the forest, with trailheads, mountain streams, and dense greenery marking the heart of the Green Mountains.

Before concluding our summer trip, we visited Montpelier, the smallest state capital in the United States. The Vermont State Capitol, with its gold-domed roof, stood gracefully above the city, set against a backdrop of rolling hills and quiet neighborhoods. It felt fitting to end the summer journey at the political and geographic heart of the state.

 

Fall:

Our fall trip again began early from Cambridge, this time heading west before turning north. The Mohawk Trail in Massachusetts was our gateway to autumn, winding through hills ablaze with reds, oranges, and yellows. As we approached the Connecticut River, the landscape opened up dramatically.

Crossing the French King Bridge, we paused to admire the river cutting through steep, forested cliffs; an iconic New England view intensified by fall foliage.

Back in Vermont, we rejoined the Molly Stark Byway, now transformed by autumn colors. Brattleboro appeared warmer and more vibrant, framed by trees in peak foliage. Nearby, the historic Iron Bridge and the West Dummerston Covered Bridge showcased Vermont’s engineering heritage amid a glowing landscape.

Continuing through Jamaica, the road felt almost cinematic, with tunnels of color arching over the highway.

The Ethan Allen Highway carried us north through classic Vermont countryside. In Manchester, historic buildings sat beneath mountain backdrops. At Emerald Lake State Park, the still water mirrored the surrounding fall colors, creating one of the most striking scenes of the trip.

The scenic drive through Rutland, West Rutland, and Rutland City Forest revealed a quieter, more rugged side of Vermont; wooded hills, narrow roads, and deep forests transitioning into late autumn.

By late afternoon, we reached Woodstock, one of Vermont’s most picturesque towns. The scenic approach showcased covered bridges, village greens, and rolling farmland bathed in golden light.

We spent the evening camping at Quechee State Park, where the forest seemed alive with color. As night fell, the crisp air and silence of the woods emphasized how different the fall experience felt from summer.

The next morning, we first visited the VINS Nature Center, perched above the dramatic Quechee Gorge. Often called the “Grand Canyon of Vermont,” the gorge cut deep into the landscape, with the Ottauquechee River rushing far below. Nearby, Deweys Pond offered a quieter contrast; still water, fallen leaves, and reflections that captured the essence of fall.

Following the Connecticut River Byway, we passed through White River Junction and Windsor, towns rich in American history. The road hugged the river, offering continuous views of water, hills, and forests transitioning toward winter.

In Bellows Falls, the river narrowed and quickened, marking one of the most dramatic sections of the drive. We also explored the Wantastiquet Mountain Natural Area, where trails and overlooks provided sweeping views back across the New Hampshire–Vermont state line, highlighting the close relationship between the two states.

 

One Forest, Two Seasons

Green Mountain National Forest revealed itself differently in each season we visited. In summer, the landscape felt expansive and lush; mountains wrapped in green, lakes shimmering under long daylight hours, and roads inviting slow exploration. In fall, the same routes became dramatic and intimate, defined by bold colors, cool air, and a sense of quiet transition.

Its easy accessibility from Boston made Vermont an irresistible escape. But it was the diversity of scenery; mountains, rivers, historic towns, and scenic byways, that kept drawing us back. Experiencing Green Mountain National Forest in different seasons allowed us to see not just a place, but a living landscape that changed its personality with the seasons, yet never lost its enduring charm.

White Mountain National Forest – Journeys Across Seasons

White Mountain National Forest in New Hampshire was one of those destinations we kept returning to, simply because it was so close to Boston and yet felt worlds apart. Just a few hours north of Cambridge, MA, the urban rhythm gave way to mountains, forests, rivers, and dramatic notches carved by time and weather. Over multiple visits, the White Mountains became a familiar escape; reachable on a whim, yet never repetitive. We experienced it both in summer and in fall, and each trip revealed a different personality of the same landscape.

 

Summer:

We started early in the morning from Cambridge, before the city fully woke up. The drive along Route 2 and I-93 North was smooth and quiet at that hour. Once past Concord, NH, the highway scenery gradually shifted; rolling hills replaced suburbs, forests thickened, and distant mountain silhouettes began to appear. After exiting I-93 near Franconia, local roads led us deeper into the White Mountain National Forest, where every bend felt increasingly remote.

By late morning, we reached Twin Mountain, a small settlement that served as a gateway to the western Whites. The scale of the mountains became immediately apparent, broad valleys framed by steep ridgelines, with dense forests stretching in every direction.

We set up camp at Sugarloaf Campground, tucked quietly among tall trees with the sound of wind and distant water in the background. The campground felt intimate and well-integrated into the forest, with sites spaced enough to preserve a sense of solitude.

From there, we hiked the Sugarloaf Trail, which climbed steadily through mixed forest. The trail was moderate but rewarding, opening occasionally to glimpses of surrounding peaks and valleys. From higher elevations, the view stretched across the western White Mountains, giving us our first true panoramic sense of the region.

The next stretch took us south along Franconia Notch Parkway, a beautifully designed section of I-93 that felt less like an interstate and more like a scenic corridor carved through towering granite walls.

We stopped at Echo Lake, where calm waters reflected Cannon Mountain rising sharply behind it. The setting was serene, with the mountains almost appearing painted onto the sky. Nearby, the short but steep climb to Artists Bluff rewarded us with one of the most iconic views in New Hampshire; Franconia Notch unfolding below, with the highway threading through the narrow pass.

A short hike brought us to Bald Mountain, offering another perspective of the notch. At its base lay Profile Lake, once famous for reflecting the “Old Man of the Mountain” rock formation. Even though the formation had collapsed years earlier, the site still carried immense historical and emotional significance.

At the Old Man Historic Site, interpretive paths and viewing platforms explained the geology and cultural importance of the granite profile that once symbolized New Hampshire. Profile Mountain rose above us, its cliffs still bearing the memory of the famous formation.

We continued toward Cannon Mountain, whose sheer rock faces dominated the notch. The mountain felt imposing and dramatic, a reminder of the raw geological forces that shaped this region.

The second day was devoted to exploring Flume Gorge, one of the most spectacular natural attractions in the Whites. A wooden boardwalk guided us through the narrow granite chasm, where Flume Brook rushed between walls rising nearly straight up. Highlights along the loop included Bear’s Cave, Avalanche Falls, and the covered bridge spanning the rushing water at the gorge’s entrance.

Further along, we passed Liberty Gorge, crossed the Sentinel Pine Bridge, and paused at The Pool, a deep, calm basin carved by centuries of flowing water. The forest felt ancient and carefully preserved.

The trail led us past Wolf Den, a rocky enclosure once thought to shelter wildlife, and onward to Mount Pemigewasset. From Indian Head, the view opened dramatically over the Pemigewasset River valley. Cliffs dropped sharply below, and the winding river traced a silver path through dense forest far beneath us. It was one of those viewpoints that made the effort of the hike completely fade away.

 

Fall:

Our fall trip began, once again, early in the morning from Cambridge. The drive north felt familiar, but the destination promised something entirely different. After reaching Lincoln, NH, we joined the legendary Kancamagus Highway (Route 112), one of the most scenic roads in New England, especially during autumn.

The highway climbed steadily through the White Mountains, following the Pemigewasset River in its early stretches. Forests on either side were ablaze with fall colors; deep reds, bright oranges, and golden yellows layered across the slopes.

Near Lincoln, we passed Loon Mountain, its slopes now quiet compared to winter. Side trails led toward Greeley Ponds, pristine mountain ponds hidden among forested hills, their still surfaces mirroring the fall foliage.

As the road ascended toward the Kancamagus Pass, peaks like Mount Kancamagus and Mount Passaconaway framed the horizon. Pull-offs along the highway offered sweeping views across vast forested valleys, where the scale of autumn became overwhelming.

We stopped at Rocky Gorge, where the Swift River churned through a narrow rock channel, followed by a quiet pause at Falls Pond, tucked away from the road. Lower Falls was more energetic, with cascading water and smooth rock slabs shaped by centuries of flow.

Taking Bear Notch Road added another layer of solitude. This narrower road wound through dense forest, offering occasional clearings near Bear Mountain and viewpoints like Sawyer Rock, where the foliage seemed to stretch endlessly.

By afternoon, we reached Crawford Notch State Park, a dramatic mountain pass shaped by glaciers. We set up camp at Dry River Campground, nestled deep within the forest.

Nearby waterfalls punctuated the landscape: Flume Cascade and Silver Cascade spilled down steep rock faces close to the road, while Saco Lake lay still and reflective near the mountain pass. The Saco River emerged from the area, beginning its long journey southeast.

Next day, we started with Mount Washington State Park, home to the highest peak in the Northeast. The Mount Washington Auto Road climbed relentlessly, revealing expanding views with every switchback. Weather shifted noticeably as we gained elevation, reinforcing the mountain’s reputation for rapid changes.

We also observed the historic Mount Washington Cog Railway, its tracks climbing improbably steep slopes toward the summit.

At the top, the Mount Washington Observatory stood against fierce winds, continuing its long tradition of weather monitoring. Nearby, the Tip Top House, a historic stone structure, reminded us of the mountain’s early tourism history.

From the summit, the view stretched across New Hampshire, Maine, Vermont, and beyond; an unforgettable conclusion to our fall journey.

 

Why the White Mountains Kept Calling Us Back

White Mountain National Forest became a favorite not because it was exotic or far away, but precisely because it wasn’t. Its proximity to Boston made it an easy escape, while its landscapes felt vast enough to reset the mind completely. Over time, what truly set these journeys apart was how dramatically the same terrain transformed between seasons.

During summer, the White Mountains felt lush and expansive, with deep green forests, full rivers, and long daylight hours that encouraged lingering hikes and unhurried exploration. In fall, the landscape turned vivid and dramatic; forests ignited into layers of red, orange, and gold, mountain views sharpened in the cooler air, and even familiar roads felt entirely new beneath the weight of autumn color. Experiencing both seasons made the White Mountain National Forest feel like two distinct destinations, each equally compelling, and one we knew we would keep returning to as long as the road north from Boston remained within reach.