Sunday, April 6, 2008

All Roads Lead to Rome

Day 1 – Arrival in the Eternal City

It was the long weekend around August 15th, and after a full day’s train journey from Munich, we finally rolled into Rome; tired, curious, and more than a little excited. The Italian countryside had kept us company for most of the ride, with its vineyards, olive groves, and the occasional glimpse of hilltop towns. By late evening, we reached our base, Plus Camping Roma, a popular camping site on the outskirts of the city. The atmosphere was lively, with travellers from all over Europe, pools glinting in the sunset, and a sense that the weekend was going to be special. We unpacked, stretched our legs, and settled in, ready to take on the layers of history that awaited us.

 

Day 2 – The Vatican and Central Rome

The next morning began with a bus ride straight into Vatican City, the smallest country in the world yet overflowing with art, faith, and grandeur. We started the Vatican Museum, a sprawling complex that could easily take days to explore. Corridors lined with sculptures, frescoes, and tapestries led us deeper into the heart of the collection. Among the many sections, the Borgia Apartments, decorated with vivid Renaissance paintings, stood out for their detail and storytelling.

Pinecone Courtyard at the Vatican Museum

Moving on, the Raphael Rooms left a lasting impression, especially “The School of Athens,” where philosophy, art, and human brilliance seemed to converge on a single wall. The highlight, of course, was the Sistine Chapel. Even with the crowd, it was impossible not to be awed by Michelangelo’s ceiling, every inch telling stories of creation, temptation, and faith.

The Last Judgement by Michelangelo at Sistine Chapel

Outside, St. Peter’s Square opened up before us, vast and perfectly symmetrical. The obelisk at the centre had seen more centuries than most cities, and the surrounding colonnades almost seemed to embrace the visitors in a grand architectural gesture. The West Ponente marker lay embedded in the pavement near the obelisk, easy to miss unless you know where to look. Entering St. Peter’s Basilica, we were struck by its sheer scale. Every corner was filled with sculptures, domes, and light filtering in through high windows. Climbing up to the dome offered an unforgettable view, Vatican City below, and Rome stretching endlessly beyond.

St. Peter's Basilica

St. Peter's Square, as viewed from the dome of St. Peter's Basilica

West Ponente marker at St. Peter's Square  The "Air" element

Crossing the Tiber River later that afternoon, we reached Castel Sant’Angelo, once the emperor’s mausoleum and later a papal fortress. Its circular shape and commanding position gave a sense of the city’s evolution from empire to church rule. We ended the day at Piazza Navona, one of Rome’s most beautiful squares. Facing the Piazza Navona, the Church of St. Agnese in Agone stood elegantly, its Baroque façade adding to the grandeur of the square. The Fountain of Four Rivers dominated the square, with Bernini’s figures representing great rivers of the known world, the Nile, Ganges, Danube, and Rio de la Plata. 

Castel Sant’Angelo

Fountain of Four Rivers at Piazza Navona  The "Water" element

Sant'Agnese in Agone at Piazza Navona

Day 3 – Ancient Rome Unfolds

Our third morning started early with a bus to Piazza della Rotonda, home to the magnificent Pantheon. Its dome, nearly 2000 years old, still holds the record for the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world. The open oculus at the top let in a perfect beam of light, moving across the marble floor like a slow sundial. We paused by Raphael’s Tomb, a simple yet profound resting place for one of the greatest artists of the Renaissance.

Pantheon

Tomb of Raphael Santi in the Pantheon

From there, we walked to Piazza Venezia, dominated by the Altar of the Fatherland, a massive white monument built in honour of Italy’s first king. Climbing up the steps gave sweeping views of the city below. Nearby, the Trajan’s Market stood as one of the world’s earliest shopping complexes, showcasing the ingenuity of ancient Roman architecture and urban planning.

Altar of the Fatherland at Piazza Venezzia

Just behind the Altar of the Fatherland lay Capitoline Hill, one of the original seven hills of Rome. Designed by Michelangelo, Piazza del Campidoglio had that classic Renaissance symmetry, surrounded by museums and elegant facades. Nearby ruins reminded us that this hill once held the Temple of Jupiter Optimus Maximus, the most important temple in ancient Rome. The Cordonata, a gently sloping staircase, led down elegantly to the street, past the Palazzo Senatorio, the seat of Rome’s city council today.

Piazza del Campidoglio at Capitoline Hill

Descending from the Capitoline Hill brought us straight into the Roman Forum, the true heart of ancient Rome. Walking among the ruins felt like stepping through history itself. The Temple of Saturn, Temple of Vesta, Arch of Titus, and the Senate House all stood as reminders of an empire that once ruled much of the known world.

Roman Forum

A short walk later, the massive Colosseum came into view, truly one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Even in ruins, it is awe-inspiring. Standing inside the arena, it was easy to imagine the roar of crowds, gladiators in armour, and the thrill of ancient spectacles. Across from it stood the Arch of Constantine, commemorating the emperor’s victory and marking the beginning of Christian Rome.

Colosseum

Arch of Constantine

Located on the Oppian Hill near the Colosseum, the Domus Aurea, or “Golden House” of Emperor Nero, revealed the remains of his opulent palace with vast halls and beautifully preserved frescoes. We continued towards the Palatine Hill, the birthplace of the city itself. The ruins of imperial palaces like the Palace of Domitian overlooked the ancient Circus Maximus, once a vast chariot-racing stadium.

Palatine Hill, as viewed from the Colosseum

Circus Maximus

Located south of the Palatine Hill, the Baths of Caracalla showcased the grandeur of ancient Roman engineering, with massive ruins that once housed vast bathing halls, gyms, and gardens. It was one of ancient Rome's largest and best preserved thermal complexes.

Baths of Caracalla at Palatine Hill

In the late afternoon, we took a bus to the Appian Way (Via Appia), one of the oldest and most important Roman roads. The stillness here was a stark contrast to the city’s bustle. Lined with cypress trees and ancient tombs, it led us to the Catacombs, underground burial chambers that stretched for miles, eerie, fascinating, and deeply historic.

Via Appia

Circus of Maxentius at the Appian Way

Day 4 – The Final Walk Through Rome

Our last day began with a visit to the Trevi Fountain (Fontana di Trevi), one of Rome’s most iconic landmarks. Even early in the day, the fountain was lively, with visitors tossing coins over their shoulders to ensure a return to Rome. The sculptures and cascading water made for a perfect farewell scene.

Fontana di Trevi

From there, we climbed the Spanish Steps, connecting Piazza di Spagna with the Trinità dei Monti church above. The steps offered great views and a sense of daily Roman life, with people sitting, chatting, and soaking in the sun.

The Spanish Steps

Our final stops were two stunning churches. The first one, Santa Maria del Popolo, is famous for the Chigi Chapel, which houses Bernini’s remarkable sculpture Habakkuk and the Angel. The next one, Santa Maria della Vittoria, holds Bernini’s dramatic Ecstasy of Saint Teresa. Both were smaller compared to St. Peter’s but full of artistic treasures that summed up Rome’s spirit, beauty, belief, and brilliance woven together.

Santa Maria del Popolo

Habakkuk and the Angel – The "Earth" element

Santa Maria della Vittoria

Ecstasy of Saint Teresa – The "Fire" element

As the day ended, we boarded our train back to Munich, another long ride, but one filled with reflections of everything we had seen. In four days, we had walked through centuries, from the Roman Empire to the Renaissance to modern life, all layered seamlessly across the same cobbled streets. We had followed the Path of Illuminati as Robert Langdon did in Angels and Demons – a book we recently read – tracing the same piazzas, churches, sculptures, and paintings, where history, art, and mystery come alive at every turn.

Rome had lived up to every bit of its legend; ancient yet alive, monumental yet human.