Sunday, May 9, 2010

Green Mountain National Forest – One Beloved Escape from Boston

Green Mountain National Forest in Vermont had always been one of our favorite destinations, largely because of its proximity to Boston. Within a few hours of driving from Cambridge, MA, the urban rhythm faded into rolling hills, forested ridgelines, historic towns, and some of the most scenic highways in New England. We experienced this region several times, both in the height of summer and during peak fall foliage, and each journey revealed a completely different character of Vermont.

 

Summer:

We started early from Cambridge, heading northwest. The familiar interstates gradually gave way to quieter state highways, and as we crossed into Vermont, the landscape softened into green valleys framed by the Green Mountains. The drive itself felt like a transition; from metropolitan New England to a slower, more contemplative world.

Our first major highlight was the Molly Stark Byway, one of Vermont’s most celebrated scenic drives. The road traced gentle curves through dense forests, river valleys, and historic towns. Named after the wife of Revolutionary War General John Stark, the byway carried a sense of history along with its beauty.

We passed through Brattleboro, a vibrant river town near the Connecticut River, where brick buildings, small bridges, and tree-lined streets reflected Vermont’s classic townscape. Continuing northward, the road narrowed and became more intimate as it led us through Townshend, surrounded by open meadows and wooded hills. Summer greenery was at its peak, and the sunlight filtered through layers of leaves, creating a constantly shifting palette of greens.

From the western side of Vermont, we climbed toward Mount Equinox, one of the highest peaks in the Taconic Range. The Skyline Drive, a toll road winding steeply to the summit, was both dramatic and rewarding. As we ascended, the road revealed sweeping views of the surrounding valleys, the Green Mountains to the east, and the Adirondacks rising faintly to the west.

At the top, we stopped at the Monastery Overlook, where the Carthusian monastery stood quietly against the vast backdrop of mountains. From Lookout Rock, the view felt almost endless; layers of ridges fading into the horizon under a wide summer sky. The air was cooler at the summit, and the silence added to the sense of elevation and isolation.

Descending from the mountains, we reached Proctor, a town shaped by Vermont’s marble industry. Here, Wilson Castle stood unexpectedly dramatic against the rolling countryside. With its towers, turrets, and eclectic architecture, the castle looked more European than New England, making it one of the most unusual landmarks of the trip.

By late afternoon, we arrived at Lake Dunmore, nestled between forested slopes near the southern edge of the Green Mountain National Forest. The calm water reflected the surrounding trees, and the atmosphere felt peaceful and unhurried.

We spent the evening camping at Kampersville Campground, where the quiet of the woods replaced the noise of highways. As daylight faded, the forest settled into stillness, marking a perfect end to the first summer day.

The next morning, we followed the Lake Champlain Byway, another one of Vermont’s most scenic routes. The road ran close to the shoreline, with constant views of Lake Champlain stretching toward the Adirondack Mountains in New York.

We passed through Middlebury, a classic Vermont college town with historic architecture and open green spaces. The drive toward Burlington felt expansive, with farmland on one side and the vast lake on the other.

Burlington blended the energy of a small city with the calm presence of water and mountains. At Lake Champlain, we joined the Spirit of Ethan Allen Boat Tour, which offered a unique perspective of the region from the water. The cruise highlighted historic islands, distant mountain ranges, and iconic landmarks such as Windmill Point Light, Isle La Motte Light, and the striking rock formations known as the Indian Heads.

Back on land, we explored Waterfront Park, where walking paths ran alongside the lake, offering uninterrupted views of the water and sky. Nearby, Church Street Marketplace provided a lively pedestrian area, framed by historic buildings and street activity, making it a pleasant place to slow down and observe local life.

Heading east, we reached Stowe, surrounded by some of Vermont’s most iconic mountain scenery. Mount Mansfield, the highest peak in the state, dominated the skyline. The drive through Underhill State Park took us deeper into the forest, with trailheads, mountain streams, and dense greenery marking the heart of the Green Mountains.

Before concluding our summer trip, we visited Montpelier, the smallest state capital in the United States. The Vermont State Capitol, with its gold-domed roof, stood gracefully above the city, set against a backdrop of rolling hills and quiet neighborhoods. It felt fitting to end the summer journey at the political and geographic heart of the state.

 

Fall:

Our fall trip again began early from Cambridge, this time heading west before turning north. The Mohawk Trail in Massachusetts was our gateway to autumn, winding through hills ablaze with reds, oranges, and yellows. As we approached the Connecticut River, the landscape opened up dramatically.

Crossing the French King Bridge, we paused to admire the river cutting through steep, forested cliffs; an iconic New England view intensified by fall foliage.

Back in Vermont, we rejoined the Molly Stark Byway, now transformed by autumn colors. Brattleboro appeared warmer and more vibrant, framed by trees in peak foliage. Nearby, the historic Iron Bridge and the West Dummerston Covered Bridge showcased Vermont’s engineering heritage amid a glowing landscape.

Continuing through Jamaica, the road felt almost cinematic, with tunnels of color arching over the highway.

The Ethan Allen Highway carried us north through classic Vermont countryside. In Manchester, historic buildings sat beneath mountain backdrops. At Emerald Lake State Park, the still water mirrored the surrounding fall colors, creating one of the most striking scenes of the trip.

The scenic drive through Rutland, West Rutland, and Rutland City Forest revealed a quieter, more rugged side of Vermont; wooded hills, narrow roads, and deep forests transitioning into late autumn.

By late afternoon, we reached Woodstock, one of Vermont’s most picturesque towns. The scenic approach showcased covered bridges, village greens, and rolling farmland bathed in golden light.

We spent the evening camping at Quechee State Park, where the forest seemed alive with color. As night fell, the crisp air and silence of the woods emphasized how different the fall experience felt from summer.

The next morning, we first visited the VINS Nature Center, perched above the dramatic Quechee Gorge. Often called the “Grand Canyon of Vermont,” the gorge cut deep into the landscape, with the Ottauquechee River rushing far below. Nearby, Deweys Pond offered a quieter contrast; still water, fallen leaves, and reflections that captured the essence of fall.

Following the Connecticut River Byway, we passed through White River Junction and Windsor, towns rich in American history. The road hugged the river, offering continuous views of water, hills, and forests transitioning toward winter.

In Bellows Falls, the river narrowed and quickened, marking one of the most dramatic sections of the drive. We also explored the Wantastiquet Mountain Natural Area, where trails and overlooks provided sweeping views back across the New Hampshire–Vermont state line, highlighting the close relationship between the two states.

 

One Forest, Two Seasons

Green Mountain National Forest revealed itself differently in each season we visited. In summer, the landscape felt expansive and lush; mountains wrapped in green, lakes shimmering under long daylight hours, and roads inviting slow exploration. In fall, the same routes became dramatic and intimate, defined by bold colors, cool air, and a sense of quiet transition.

Its easy accessibility from Boston made Vermont an irresistible escape. But it was the diversity of scenery; mountains, rivers, historic towns, and scenic byways, that kept drawing us back. Experiencing Green Mountain National Forest in different seasons allowed us to see not just a place, but a living landscape that changed its personality with the seasons, yet never lost its enduring charm.