Sunday, May 1, 2011

Living "The Day After Tomorrow" experience

It was our Last Christmas in the United States. We gave it our heart, and in return, it gave us memories rich enough to carry across continents.

From Boston, we had traveled to Chicago to be with family one final time, before returning to India for good in just a few days. The move was irreversible, the tickets booked, the visas ticking toward expiry.

It was meant to be a warm, nostalgic pause before a major life transition. Chicago, dressed in its festive best, delivered exactly that: familiar faces, long conversations, late night movies, and the quiet awareness that a chapter was about to close.

Then winter decided to make its own plans.

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The first warning came on the television on Christmas night.

“BLIZZARD WARNING. EAST COAST. DON’T TRAVEL. STAY HOME.”

The looping satellite images, swirling with white and blue, looked eerily reminiscent of “The Day After Tomorrow”. Except this time, there was no cinema screen to separate fiction from reality.

The next morning, on Boxing Day, an alert from the airline confirmed our worst fears; our flight home had been cancelled.

In total, almost 6000 flights to East Coast were canceled due to what is now known as the “Boxing Day Blizzard”. Major airports like JFK, La Guardia, Logan, etc. were shutdown until further notice.

A hurried dash to the Chicago O’Hare Airport and a tense conversation at the ticketing counter revealed a hard truth about the next available flight to Boston.

“Five days,” she had said. “Minimum.”

Five days meant missing an international flight. It meant visas expiring. It meant a chain reaction with no rewind button.

That’s when the unimaginable idea surfaced.

We were going to drive one thousand miles.

From Chicago to Boston.

Non-stop.

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It sounded reckless, almost absurd, but when every other door closes, logic quietly reshapes itself.

Early in the next morning, while the city was frozen in time, we had driven to Chicago Midway Airport with a plan that, to this day, didn’t sound real.

The rental car parking lot looked like a graveyard of sedans, each one dusted with snow like a final blessing.

We chose a Honda Civic and approached the counter. The employee barely looked up before starting her checklist.

“Insurance?”

“Sure. Bumper-to-Bumper.”

“Toll pass?”

“How much?”

“Six dollars a day.”

“OK. Add.”

“GPS?”

“Yes please.”

She paused, glanced at the storm warnings flashing on the screen behind her, and smiled.

We smiled back. This was one moment where everything felt non-negotiable.

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Top of Form

Bottom of Form

We loaded the car, checked the GPS, clipped the toll pass to the windshield, said final goodbye to family, and then pulled out with a mindset that said, just keep going.

The streets were empty, the city subdued, as if Chicago itself was holding its breath.

Once we merged onto I-90, the road stretched ahead like a promise, and a threat.

Illinois passed quietly. Flat land. Clean lanes. The kind of driving that lulls you into confidence. Indiana followed, equally cooperative, the highway slicing through winter fields that looked frozen mid-gesture.

The rhythm set in quickly; steady speed, eyes scanning mirrors, hands locked on the wheel. Gas stops were military operations; fuel, restroom, back on the road in under ten minutes. No coffee. No distractions.

Ohio arrived under a low, grey sky. The traffic thinned further. Somewhere near Toledo, snow began falling sideways. Not heavy yet, just enough to remind us that this was not a normal drive.

We pushed on.

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By the time we crossed into New York, fatigue crept in around the edges. The New York Thruway was a long, disciplined ribbon of asphalt, flanked by walls of snow that reflected the headlights back at us.

After Buffalo, the landscape felt reassuringly familiar. We had been here before, many times, on trips to Niagara Falls. The exit signs tugged at memory, at comfort, at the temptation of something known.

For a moment, a tempting thought surfaced: What would Niagara look like frozen solid?

Then the GPS chimed, reminding us of time. Of distance. Of the storm gaining ground.

Neither did we slow down, nor did we take the exit.

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The first real problem came east of Albany.

The wind arrived without warning.

One moment the road was manageable; the next, the car shuddered as if something massive had slammed into it from the side. Snow lifted off the ground in violent sheets, erasing the lane markers completely.

The GPS recalculated, its calm voice absurdly cheerful.

“Continue on I-90 for one hundred and sixty miles.”

Around us, vehicles began disappearing. Some exiting, others pulling onto the shoulder, hazard lights blinking like distress signals. We passed them slowly, unwilling to stop, afraid that if we did, we wouldn’t start again.

For the first time, it truly felt like we had driven into the movie.

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And then came Massachusetts. Winter was no longer a backdrop. It had become a full-blown antagonist.

Heavy winds slammed into the car. Snow fell thick and fast. Visibility dropped to near zero.

Suddenly a wall of white exploded across the windshield, so dense it felt physical. We tightened the grip and slammed the brakes, heart hammering.

For a few tense moments, it was impossible to see anything ahead.

Then, through the chaos, red and blue lights cut the darkness.

Like an unspoken guardian, a highway patrol vehicle emerged behind us. Angled slightly across the lane, its lights flashed not in warning, but in guidance.

For several minutes, it guided traffic slowly and steadily through the worst of the storm.

That silent act of protection remains etched in memory; reassuring, human, and profoundly humbling.

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The storm began to slow down momentarily, giving us a fighting chance to get through the last miles.

Then the lights appeared. Boston skyline. Familiar exits.

When the sign for Boston Logan Airport finally came into view, the feeling was unreal. We pulled into the rental return area, parked, sat there in silence, and took a long deep breath.

Our trusted companion chimed one last time.

"You have arrived at your destination."

Seventeen hours. One thousand miles.

No accidents. No breakdowns. No turning back.

We handed over the keys, stepped into the cold, and looked back once at the snow-scarred Honda Civic.

It had carried us through the worst night of winter.

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Some journeys don’t end when you reach your destination. They stay with you, etched into muscle memory, into the quiet certainty that when there is no safe choice left, movement itself becomes survival.

It was a symbolic crossing through snow, uncertainty, and sheer will; marking the end of our American chapter and the beginning of another, half a world away.

Some goodbyes don’t happen at airports. They happen on highways, in the dark, with snowstorms as witnesses.

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Biodiversity of Southern Florida

Disclaimer:
This is NOT a scholarly article; just a travel review of the national parks of Florida.
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The sunshine state is well known for its crystal beaches, tropical climate, and an array of amusement parks in the city of Orlando. However, there is much more in it, though not so popular among conventional tourists, but a true feast for nature lovers. In addition to all the popular tourist sites, the state has been endowed with a wide diversity of wildlife including a number of endangered species. There are several protected areas for this rich biodiversity, which include Everglades National Park and Biscayne National Park at the southern part of the state. The major part of the state is strategically placed between two major bodies of water; the Atlantic on the east coast and the Gulf of Mexico on the west. This unique geographical location is the principal reason for sustaining the biodiversity.

If you continue on I-95 towards south of Miami, it merges onto US-1 around Coconut Grove and becomes South Dixie Hwy. After driving for another 28 miles you will reach Florida City, the southernmost city in mainland US which is not on an island. In the center of the city lies the crossing of S Dixie Hwy and Palm Drive. This last crossing on S Dixie Hwy traps you in a dilemma. If you go westbound you will hit Everglades National Park (Gulf of Mexico coast) in about 20 min. If you choose to go to east you will reach Biscayne National Park (Biscayne Bay, Atlantic coast) in about 25 min.

In our entire stay in US, we came to the crossing twice, once in Dec 2009 and once in Dec 2010. We were lucky enough to have visited both the national parks, but on two different trips one year apart. The first trip, where we went westbound, was part of a Christmas vacation when we roamed around the whole state of Florida. The last one was just meant for Biscayne and greater Miami metropolitan area. So fond we were of the crossing, that we would love to visit there time and again.

Everglades

Everglades neither has the grandeur of Yellowstone or Grand Canyon, nor the sheer relief of Rockies or Smokeys. But it does have something that draws attention of thousands of nature enthusiasts every year. You just need to recognize its own unique beauty. This is the ultimate place for tropical wildlife watching in Southern Florida, though most of the park is inaccessible. The accessible parts of the park can be covered in one day, and for us that one day was the New Years Day in 2010. On the last day of 2009 we traveled to and from Key West in a single day. We enjoyed the firecrackers on the way to Homestead, and returned to our motel much after midnight. The New Years Day was supposed to be hectic. But we started early towards Everglades, despite being sleepy.

American Alligator (Alligator mississippiensis)

The journey started at the Ernest Coe Visitor Center near the main entrance of the park. The Royal Palm Visitor Center is just 4 miles away from there. This place was infested with turkey vultures. A dead vulture was hanging on top of the visitor center; this exhibition was supposed to scare the hell out of the living ones.

Florida Redbelly Turtle (Pseudemys nelsoni)

The Anhinga Trail starts from Royal Palm. Nothing less than an amusement park, this 0.8 mile loop trail is a must see for people of all ages. If SeaWorld decides to have an “Everglades Ride”, this is what it should look like ideally. This is mostly on a boardwalk, which offers closest possible encounters with fearsome alligators and crocodiles and cool turtles. And by closest I mean inches, without exaggerating anything. Surely you can pose for nice snaps with them without being worried. Those cold-blooded creatures, in the course of their languid sunbathing, care little about the nearby two legged animals. However, one may invite disaster if he/she tries to play games with them. The best thing about the park is that the food chain in the ecosystem is maintained naturally, without any interference from the park rangers. That means the alligators feed on naturally occurring aquatic species.

Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias)

Apart from the reptiles, a whole variety of the avian species can be watched all the way through this trail, again from a very close distance. The Anhingas can be seen standing gracefully on wooden pillars; not bothered by the presence of the descendants of monkey species (us). The reflections of green herons and reddish egrets on the water surface; the nosedive of ospreys to snatch fish; all create picture perfect moments.

Water Turkey (Anhinga anhinga)

The park ranger informed us that nearly 350 bird species can be found in Everglades, which includes wood stork, brown pelican, white and glossy ibis, roseate spoonbill, to mention just a few. In addition, it also hosts a large number of smaller migratory birds.

Green Heron (Butorides virescens)

The Main Park Road is a scenic 38 mile drive from Coe to Flamingo Visitor Center. Several walking trails can be accessed by the side of this road. We chose to explore the 0.4 mile Mahogany Hammock Trail, which passes through a dense, jungle-like hardwood hammock (slightly higher elevated tree island). At the end of the scenic drive the Flamingo area generously offers a variety of activities to the travelers. The most interesting amongst them is wildlife watching from the visitor center breezeway. A number of gators and endangered crocs laze around the vicinity of Flamingo marina. A variety of birds assemble on the Florida Bay mudflats as well as on the Eco Pond.

Tricolored Heron (Egretta tricolor)

To appreciate the real Everglades one needs a boat. Since we didn’t have one, we went for a narrated boat ride into the Florida Bay. The main attraction was to study some endangered manatees and bottlenose dolphins. We were neither lucky nor unlucky; just had to satisfy ourselves with occasional views of dolphin fins above the water surface.

Roseate Spoonbill (Platalea ajaja)

With the setting sun, our daylong visit at Everglades was concluded. Hoping to come back at some other suitable time, we started our cross-country return journey through Big Cypress National Preserve.

Biscayne

The sole purpose of our second visit to the Miami was to explore Biscayne National Park and Biscayne Bay in general. The rationale was that the biodiversity on land is just the beginning. The real escapade begins when you hit the waters rich with sundry marine life. For several decades, the shoreline of Biscayne Bay had attracted marine aficionados from all parts of the globe. Biscayne National Park is probably the best place in Florida for up close and personal interaction with coral reefs. Only 5% of the park is land, consisting of a mangrove shoreline and about 40 barrier reef islands. The majority of the wilderness lies under the water.

Double-crested Cormorant (Phalacrocorax auritus)

For beginners, corals are tiny animals, termed as polyps, which assimilates calcium ions from seawater and produces fortifications of limestone around themselves. The array of those adjoining fortifications appears like colonies of flowers or mountains. When colonies of several species are placed in close proximity to each other, they emerge as living fortresses termed as reefs. Apart from corals, there exist sea whips and sea fans inside the reefs. Their back and forth movement alongwith the sea current gives life to the otherwise stagnant reefs.


To spice up the matter, about 200 species of colorful fishes dwell on the reefs. Some of the popular ones include blue marlin, red grouper, damselfish, parrotfish, etc. A number of endangered sea turtles such as loggerhead, leatherback and green sea turtle, as well as shark, stingray, jellyfish, crab, sponge, starfish, etc. are residents of this part of the world. Scores of these species acquire food and shelter in the coral reefs. Being closer to Miami, the nightlife in the reef is amazing. A “bottom up shift” of the ecosystem always occurs at the turn of the day, which optimizes the utilization of the abundant food supply.


The best way to explore the reef is scuba diving, which was not our cup of tea. The second best option was snorkeling, which we tried the previous year at Key West, but not with great success. This time, to be doubly sure, we opted for both the glass boat tour and snorkeling, so that we could make an overkill of our visit. Both are 3 hour tours, managed by Biscayne National Underwater Park. Needless to say, both the outings were more than successful. They took us out front of Elliott Key Oceanside, where tons of patch reefs exist. The depth of water ranges from 10–15 feet, which is ideal for snorkeling. Words fall short to describe the views underneath the water. However, the astonishing views of the corals and fishes and stingrays could not be documented properly on camera. We managed to get a cheap disposable waterproof camera, which did not have the finesse of a simple point-and-shoot digital camera. So we had to be content with what our eyeballs captured.


Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias)

A large number of avian species accompanied us during both the tours, and our guide was nice enough to introduce them to us. A majority of them recognized us; probably saw our faces during the Everglades excursion.


Wood Stork (Mycteria americana)

In spite of spending so much time with the corals, we still had some surplus time before our return flight. We exploited that by kayaking on the Atlantic waters. Believe it or not, this is far more dangerous than that on the Charles or the Massachusetts Bay. As usual, birds were our only companions during the adventure, and enabled us to spend quality time far from bustling city life. Our last trip to the sunshine state was aptly concluded by a spectacular sunset over the Biscayne Bay, witnessed from Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park.