Luxembourg: The Grand Duchy Diaries

Our journey to Luxembourg City began before sunrise aboard the ICE train from Munich. The route involved changing trains at Stuttgart, Koblenz, and Trier before crossing into Luxembourg. The stretch along the Rhine River valley between Stuttgart and Koblenz was a scenic highlight, rolling vineyards, quaint riverside towns, and hilltops crowned with medieval castles overlooking the waters. The Rhine, winding gracefully through steep cliffs, offered views of fortresses like Marksburg and Stolzenfels.

Marksburg Castle, towering over Rhine Valley

After arriving at Luxembourg City in late morning, we checked into the youth hostel located conveniently near the Alzette River, freshened up, and set out on foot to explore the historic heart of the city, a blend of ancient fortifications and modern vibrance.

Our walking tour began with the Old Fortifications that once made Luxembourg known as the “Gibraltar of the North.” The high defensive walls and bastions rising from the cliffs showcased the city’s former strategic strength. From there, we climbed towards the Holy Ghost Citadel, originally built in the 17th century, offering panoramic views of the Petrusse Valley below. The nearby Spanish Turret, remnants from the Spanish occupation period, stood as picturesque watchtowers guarding the valley.

Old Fortifications

Spanish Turret

Continuing further, we reached the famous Casemates, an underground maze of tunnels and galleries carved deep into the rock. The Bock Casemates, dating back to the 18th century, were especially fascinating. These subterranean passages once housed soldiers, horses, and ammunition, forming an integral part of the city’s defence system. Emerging from the tunnels, we stood atop the Bock Promontory, a rocky outcrop offering one of the finest views in Luxembourg. From there, the Alzette River curved gracefully below, and the pastel-toned houses of Grund spread out along the valley floor.

Bock Casemates, as viewed from the Corniche

View from the Casemates

Walking along the ridge brought us to the Beck Bastion and the scenic Corniche, often called “Europe’s most beautiful balcony.” From this elevated walkway, we looked over the lower town of Grund, its stone bridges, and the green valley beneath, a view that perfectly captured Luxembourg’s multi-level cityscape.

Crossing the Pfaffenthal district, we ascended towards Fort Thüngen, also known as the “Three Acorns.” The restored fortress, now part of the Museum of Modern Art complex, represented Luxembourg’s continuous evolution, from a fortress city to a cultural capital.

Fort Thüngen

Returning to the upper town, we wandered through the cobbled streets of the Old Town, where elegant façades, government buildings, and quiet courtyards gave a sense of timelessness. The Grand Ducal Palace stood proudly with its ornate Renaissance-style architecture, the official residence of the Grand Duke of Luxembourg and an emblem of the nation’s monarchy. Nearby, the Place d’Armes was surrounded by open-air cafés and framed by classic buildings. A short walk brought us to William Square (Place Guillaume II), marked by the equestrian statue of Grand Duke William II and the Town Hall, the civic heart of the city.

Old Town

Grand Ducal Palace

We then continued to the Gëlle Fra Monument, a golden statue symbolizing freedom and the bravery of Luxembourg’s soldiers. Standing tall against the sky at Place de la Constitution, it offered commanding views over the Petrusse Valley. The adjacent Cathédrale Notre-Dame, with its striking Gothic spires and intricate stained glass windows, added a solemn beauty to the scene.

Place de la Constitution

Cathédrale Notre-Dame

Crossing towards the Adolphe Bridge, we admired the sweeping stone arches spanning the deep valley, an engineering marvel and one of the city’s most recognized landmarks. From the bridge, the skyline of Luxembourg appeared layered, ancient walls, modern glass structures, and lush green valleys intertwined in perfect harmony. Nearby, the Viaduct (Passerelle), an older stone bridge, echoed the same grandeur, connecting the upper and lower parts of the city with graceful symmetry.

Adolphe Bridge

As dusk settled, the city’s lights began to reflect softly on the river, casting a golden hue over the fortifications and bridges. Our walk through Luxembourg had felt like traversing different centuries, from medieval defences to contemporary elegance, all compactly woven within this remarkable city built on cliffs and valleys.

Luxembourg City at night

Prague: The Pulse of Bohemia

Day 1: The Majesty of Prague Castle and Hradčany

Our visit to Prague began with an early morning flight from Munich. After landing, we boarded a city bus that took us through the clean, tree-lined avenues to the youth hostel, located conveniently near Dejvická metro station. After checking in, we took the metro towards Malostranská, the nearest stop for the Hradčany district. The short ride brought us to the foot of one of Europe’s most magnificent historical complexes – Prague Castle.

As we walked uphill from Malostranská, the panorama of Prague Castle unfolded above us, a monumental fortress that had stood for more than a thousand years. Through the centuries, each ruler had left a distinct mark; Gothic spires, Renaissance halls, Baroque facades, and neoclassical wings all coexisted in layered harmony, forming a living record of Central Europe’s architectural evolution.

Prague Castle

We entered through the massive gate, guarded by statues of battling giants, and stepped into the first courtyard; a wide ceremonial space lined with elegant buildings. Moving ahead, we reached the second courtyard, where the Chapel of the Holy Cross stood with its graceful arcades and classical proportions. Beside it, the Picture Gallery of Prague Castle displayed masterpieces from the collection of Emperor Rudolph II; paintings by Titian, Rubens, and Veronese among others.

At the heart of the complex rose the magnificent St. Vitus Cathedral, whose soaring Gothic spires dominated the skyline. Inside, the stained glass windows glowed in jewel-like colours. The Chapel of St. Wenceslas, decorated with gilded reliefs and precious stones, held the tomb of Bohemia’s patron saint. We climbed the Great Tower for a sweeping view over the city’s red roofs and the meandering Vltava River.

St. Vitus Cathedral

Next, we entered the Old Royal Palace, once the seat of Bohemian kings. The vast Vladislav Hall, with its ribbed vaulted ceiling, had witnessed royal banquets, coronations, and even early indoor tournaments. We descended via the Rider’s Staircase, wide enough for knights on horseback to pass, and explored the Ludvík Wing, once the royal residence. Close by, the Mihulka Powder Tower, a round bastion from the 15th century, reminded us of the Castle’s defensive past.

Summer Palace of Queen Anne

We continued to the Convent of St. George and its adjoining Basilica of St. George, one of the oldest surviving churches in Prague, notable for its Romanesque simplicity and twin red spires. Behind the main castle buildings, we walked into the Royal Garden, a tranquil Renaissance landscape with symmetrical lawns and ornamental fountains. The elegant Ball-Game Hall stood nearby, once used for aristocratic sports and festivities. Across the garden, the Summer Palace of Queen Anne, with its delicate arcades, was one of the finest Renaissance buildings north of the Alps. The nearby Riding School, now an exhibition space, completed this section of the complex.

Basilica of St. George

Our next stop was the Golden Lane, a narrow alley lined with tiny, colourful houses that once housed castle guards, goldsmiths, and craftsmen. One of these, number 22, had once been occupied by Franz Kafka, who found inspiration in its solitude. At the end of the lane stood the White Tower and the Daliborka Tower, both used as prisons in earlier centuries.

Leaving the Castle grounds, we entered Hradčany’s noble quarter, home to grand palaces and embassies. The Lobkowicz Palace, now a private museum, displayed family collections of art and musical manuscripts. The Schwarzenberg Palace, with its striking sgraffito facade, and the Archbishop’s Palace, with its Rococo ornamentation, showcased contrasting architectural styles. The Sternberg Palace housed part of the National Gallery’s European art collection, while the Černín Palace, immense and austere, stood as one of the largest Baroque palaces in Prague.

Lobkowicz Palace

Across the square was the Loreta, a Baroque pilgrimage complex famous for its carillon of bells and the replica of the Santa Casa from Italy. The nearby Capuchin Monastery added a sense of quiet devotion. A short walk took us to the Strahov Monastery, known for its Strahov Library, one of the most beautiful in Europe. The Theological and Philosophical Halls contained ancient globes, illuminated manuscripts, and ceiling frescoes depicting the pursuit of wisdom.

Descending from the monastery, we strolled down Nerudova Street, a charming Baroque thoroughfare lined with old merchant houses marked by sculpted emblems instead of numbers, such as the Golden Key and the Red Eagle. Among the grand residences were the Thun-Hohenstein Palace, now the Italian Embassy, and the Morzin Palace, recognizable by its statues of chained Moors.

Nerudova Street

We reached the Lesser Town Square (Malostranské náměstí), dominated by the magnificent St. Nicholas Church, one of the finest Baroque churches in Central Europe. Around the square stood elegant palaces like the Sternberg, Smiřický, and Kaiserstain, each with a distinctive story. The nearby Wallenstein Palace, now the seat of the Czech Senate, boasted vast gardens and decorative sculptures.

St. Nicholas Church

Our route then led past the Church of St. Thomas, the terraced Vrtba Garden, and the Church of Our Lady Victorious, known worldwide for the statue of the Infant Jesus of Prague. Passing through Maltese Square, we crossed over to Kampa Island, a peaceful green space by the river that offered fine views of the Charles Bridge.

The Charles Bridge, completed in the 15th century, connected the Lesser Town with the Old Town. Built of sandstone blocks and supported by sixteen arches, it was lined with thirty statues and sculptural groups depicting saints and historical figures. From the centre of the bridge, the view was unforgettable, Prague Castle stood proudly on one side, while the towers of the Old Town framed the opposite bank. Musicians, painters, and street performers added life to the historic scene.

Charles Bridge

Before returning, we walked through Vojan Park, one of the oldest public gardens in the city, tranquil and shaded, with small chapels dedicated to Elijah and St. Theresa. As evening fell, we boarded a tram back to Dejvická, completing a day filled with history and grandeur.

 

Day 2: Old Town, Jewish Quarter, and New Town

We began our second day by taking the metro to Staroměstská station, right in the heart of Prague’s Old Town. From there, we entered Josefov, the Jewish Quarter, a district steeped in history and resilience. The Old Jewish Cemetery, with its densely packed gravestones dating from the 15th to the 18th century, told a powerful story of endurance. Nearby, the Pinkas Synagogue served as a Holocaust memorial, with thousands of names of victims inscribed on its walls.

Jewish Town Hall

The Klausen Synagogue presented exhibits on Jewish traditions, while the Old-New Synagogue, built in the 13th century, remained one of Europe’s oldest active synagogues. We also visited the Maisel Synagogue, the Jewish Town Hall with its Hebrew clock running counterclockwise, and the richly decorated Spanish Synagogue, known for its Moorish interior design. The nearby Church of the Holy Ghost stood as a Christian counterpart, while the Convent of St. Agnes, an early Gothic structure, reflected Prague’s medieval religious life.

Maisel Synagogue

Crossing toward the river, we reached the Rudolfinum, a neo-Renaissance concert hall that now serves as the home of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra. From there, we entered the maze of the Old Town, where every corner held a fragment of history. The Powder Tower, once a city gate and gunpowder store, marked the traditional start of royal coronation processions. Beside it stood the Municipal House, a masterpiece of Art Nouveau architecture.

Spanish Synagogue

We wandered through streets lined with historic houses bearing whimsical names, At the Three Kings, At the White Lion, At the Black Sun, and the House of the Black Madonna, an early example of Czech Cubism. The Church of St. James, with its richly baroque interior, and the Estates Theatre, where Mozart premiered Don Giovanni, stood nearby. The Carolinum, part of Charles University, reminded us of Prague’s long academic heritage.

Soon, we reached the Old Town Square, which was bustling with activity as the annual Prague Marathon was underway. Runners filled the historic square, circling past landmarks like the Church of Our Lady before Týn, the elegant Kinský Palace, and the Jan Hus Monument. The Old Town Hall, with its world-famous Astronomical Clock, drew crowds as the twelve apostles appeared in their hourly procession.

Astronomical Clock

We continued toward Mariánské Square, where the Clam-Gallas Palace displayed fine Baroque details. Along Karlova Street, we passed shops and courtyards before reaching the Clementinum, a vast Jesuit complex with libraries and an astronomical tower. At Knights of the Cross Square, we saw the Old Town bridge tower and looked once again toward the Charles Bridge, this time from the opposite side.

Charles Bridge

Following the tram lines along the river, we reached the Dancing House, an icon of modern architecture nicknamed “Fred and Ginger” for its fluid, dynamic curves. From there, we walked into Wenceslas Square, the symbolic heart of Prague’s New Town. Once a medieval horse market, it had become the stage for major historical events. The National Museum crowned its upper end, overlooking the wide boulevard.

Dancing House

Wenceslas Square

Nearby, the Franciscan Garden offered a quiet refuge amid the bustle. We visited the Church of Our Lady of the Snows, the Church of St. Ignatius, and the New Town Hall, each representing a different period of the city’s growth. Farther south stood the Emause Monastery, and the Church of St. Cyril and Methodius, associated with wartime resistance. Our walk ended at the Faust House; a historic residence linked to many legends.

New Town Hall

As evening approached, we took the metro back to Dejvická and returned to our hostel, our feet tired but our minds filled with images of centuries layered together in perfect continuity.

 

Day 3: Farewell and Return

The next morning, as we boarded the return flight to Munich, we watched Prague’s skyline fade; the towers of St. Vitus, the domes of St. Nicholas, and the bridge statues standing silently over the Vltava. Prague had presented itself as a living museum of European civilization, where Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and modern eras merged effortlessly.

All Roads Lead to Rome

Day 1 – Arrival in the Eternal City

It was the long weekend around August 15th, and after a full day’s train journey from Munich, we finally rolled into Rome; tired, curious, and more than a little excited. The Italian countryside had kept us company for most of the ride, with its vineyards, olive groves, and the occasional glimpse of hilltop towns. By late evening, we reached our base, Plus Camping Roma, a popular camping site on the outskirts of the city. The atmosphere was lively, with travellers from all over Europe, pools glinting in the sunset, and a sense that the weekend was going to be special. We unpacked, stretched our legs, and settled in, ready to take on the layers of history that awaited us.

 

Day 2 – The Vatican and Central Rome

The next morning began with a bus ride straight into Vatican City, the smallest country in the world yet overflowing with art, faith, and grandeur. We started the Vatican Museum, a sprawling complex that could easily take days to explore. Corridors lined with sculptures, frescoes, and tapestries led us deeper into the heart of the collection. Among the many sections, the Borgia Apartments, decorated with vivid Renaissance paintings, stood out for their detail and storytelling.

Pinecone Courtyard at the Vatican Museum

Moving on, the Raphael Rooms left a lasting impression, especially “The School of Athens,” where philosophy, art, and human brilliance seemed to converge on a single wall. The highlight, of course, was the Sistine Chapel. Even with the crowd, it was impossible not to be awed by Michelangelo’s ceiling, every inch telling stories of creation, temptation, and faith.

The Last Judgement by Michelangelo at Sistine Chapel

Outside, St. Peter’s Square opened up before us, vast and perfectly symmetrical. The obelisk at the centre had seen more centuries than most cities, and the surrounding colonnades almost seemed to embrace the visitors in a grand architectural gesture. The West Ponente marker lay embedded in the pavement near the obelisk, easy to miss unless you know where to look. Entering St. Peter’s Basilica, we were struck by its sheer scale. Every corner was filled with sculptures, domes, and light filtering in through high windows. Climbing up to the dome offered an unforgettable view, Vatican City below, and Rome stretching endlessly beyond.

St. Peter's Basilica

St. Peter's Square, as viewed from the dome of St. Peter's Basilica

West Ponente marker at St. Peter's Square – The "Air" element

Crossing the Tiber River later that afternoon, we reached Castel Sant’Angelo, once the emperor’s mausoleum and later a papal fortress. Its circular shape and commanding position gave a sense of the city’s evolution from empire to church rule. We ended the day at Piazza Navona, one of Rome’s most beautiful squares. Facing the Piazza Navona, the Church of St. Agnese in Agone stood elegantly, its Baroque façade adding to the grandeur of the square. The Fountain of Four Rivers dominated the square, with Bernini’s figures representing great rivers of the known world, the Nile, Ganges, Danube, and Rio de la Plata. 

Castel Sant’Angelo

Fountain of Four Rivers at Piazza Navona – The "Water" element

Sant'Agnese in Agone at Piazza Navona

Day 3 – Ancient Rome Unfolds

Our third morning started early with a bus to Piazza della Rotonda, home to the magnificent Pantheon. Its dome, nearly 2000 years old, still holds the record for the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world. The open oculus at the top let in a perfect beam of light, moving across the marble floor like a slow sundial. We paused by Raphael’s Tomb, a simple yet profound resting place for one of the greatest artists of the Renaissance.

Pantheon

Tomb of Raphael Santi in the Pantheon

From there, we walked to Piazza Venezia, dominated by the Altar of the Fatherland, a massive white monument built in honour of Italy’s first king. Climbing up the steps gave sweeping views of the city below. Nearby, the Trajan’s Market stood as one of the world’s earliest shopping complexes, showcasing the ingenuity of ancient Roman architecture and urban planning.

Altar of the Fatherland at Piazza Venezzia

Just behind the Altar of the Fatherland lay Capitoline Hill, one of the original seven hills of Rome. Designed by Michelangelo, Piazza del Campidoglio had that classic Renaissance symmetry, surrounded by museums and elegant facades. Nearby ruins reminded us that this hill once held the Temple of Jupiter Optimus Maximus, the most important temple in ancient Rome. The Cordonata, a gently sloping staircase, led down elegantly to the street, past the Palazzo Senatorio, the seat of Rome’s city council today.

Piazza del Campidoglio at Capitoline Hill

Descending from the Capitoline Hill brought us straight into the Roman Forum, the true heart of ancient Rome. Walking among the ruins felt like stepping through history itself. The Temple of Saturn, Temple of Vesta, Arch of Titus, and the Senate House all stood as reminders of an empire that once ruled much of the known world.

Roman Forum

A short walk later, the massive Colosseum came into view, truly one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Even in ruins, it is awe-inspiring. Standing inside the arena, it was easy to imagine the roar of crowds, gladiators in armour, and the thrill of ancient spectacles. Across from it stood the Arch of Constantine, commemorating the emperor’s victory and marking the beginning of Christian Rome.

Colosseum

Arch of Constantine

Located on the Oppian Hill near the Colosseum, the Domus Aurea, or “Golden House” of Emperor Nero, revealed the remains of his opulent palace with vast halls and beautifully preserved frescoes. We continued towards the Palatine Hill, the birthplace of the city itself. The ruins of imperial palaces like the Palace of Domitian overlooked the ancient Circus Maximus, once a vast chariot-racing stadium.

Palatine Hill, as viewed from the Colosseum

Circus Maximus

Located south of the Palatine Hill, the Baths of Caracalla showcased the grandeur of ancient Roman engineering, with massive ruins that once housed vast bathing halls, gyms, and gardens. It was one of ancient Rome's largest and best preserved thermal complexes.

Baths of Caracalla at Palatine Hill

In the late afternoon, we took a bus to the Appian Way (Via Appia), one of the oldest and most important Roman roads. The stillness here was a stark contrast to the city’s bustle. Lined with cypress trees and ancient tombs, it led us to the Catacombs, underground burial chambers that stretched for miles, eerie, fascinating, and deeply historic.

Via Appia

Circus of Maxentius at the Appian Way

Day 4 – The Final Walk Through Rome

Our last day began with a visit to the Trevi Fountain (Fontana di Trevi), one of Rome’s most iconic landmarks. Even early in the day, the fountain was lively, with visitors tossing coins over their shoulders to ensure a return to Rome. The sculptures and cascading water made for a perfect farewell scene.

Fontana di Trevi

From there, we climbed the Spanish Steps, connecting Piazza di Spagna with the Trinità dei Monti church above. The steps offered great views and a sense of daily Roman life, with people sitting, chatting, and soaking in the sun.

The Spanish Steps

Our final stops were two stunning churches. The first one, Santa Maria del Popolo, is famous for the Chigi Chapel, which houses Bernini’s remarkable sculpture Habakkuk and the Angel. The next one, Santa Maria della Vittoria, holds Bernini’s dramatic Ecstasy of Saint Teresa. Both were smaller compared to St. Peter’s but full of artistic treasures that summed up Rome’s spirit, beauty, belief, and brilliance woven together.

Santa Maria del Popolo

Habakkuk and the Angel – The "Earth" element

Santa Maria della Vittoria

Ecstasy of Saint Teresa – The "Fire" element

As the day ended, we boarded our train back to Munich, another long ride, but one filled with reflections of everything we had seen. In four days, we had walked through centuries, from the Roman Empire to the Renaissance to modern life, all layered seamlessly across the same cobbled streets. We had followed the Path of Illuminati as Robert Langdon did in Angels and Demons – a book we recently read – tracing the same piazzas, churches, sculptures, and paintings, where history, art, and mystery come alive at every turn.

Rome had lived up to every bit of its legend; ancient yet alive, monumental yet human.